VW say I have already damaged my engine?

Strider590

whitecloud663 wrote: »

I bought the car brand new out right in September 2009 because at the time I was financially stable, plus there was a government scrap-page scheme, where by they give £3k for your old car in exchange for a new car which is £3000 overpriced.

Fixed that for you

whitecloud663 wrote: »

Unfortunately due to the economy at the time I lost my job in mid 2010 and since I haven't been able to secure full time employment.

Happened to some of the guys I worked with 2008/2009.
The thing was we were in recession, in recession the building trade always goes first, followed by the automotive sector and they worked for an Automotive component supplier, it was stupidity on an epic scale......

Marktheshark

whitecloud663 wrote: »

Thanks for the suggestion of purchasing the timing kit by itself and going to a mobile mechanic but I'd rather just let the experts deal with it rather than me ordering the parts myself (may order the wrong bits) and going through that hassle.

According to the VW quote I also need the spark plugs changed and fuel filter. Apparently they have never been changed since new, but according to on-line resources they need to be changed every 30-40k miles. Can someone please confirm this?

Thanks

They employ fast fit technicians, the more they can sell you the better for their extras monthly bonus.
The car has a service schedule, service the car in accordance with the periodic and mileage based schedule at an independent garage.

Start listening to some of the "experts" on here and you are going to get a bill for thousands.

usefulmale

If air is getting into your brake fluid, then your brake fluid is leaking out every time you press the pedal. The system HAS to be sealed or else it could not work, at least not for any length of time.

AdrianC

usefulmale wrote: »

If air is getting into your brake fluid, then your brake fluid is leaking out every time you press the pedal. The system HAS to be sealed or else it could not work, at least not for any length of time.

Go and look at the reservoir cap.

facade

AdrianC wrote: »

Go and look at the reservoir cap.

Where you will likely find a concertina rubber diaphragm that allows air pressure to act on the fluid through the diaphragm which then collapses down, but doesn't let moist air touch the fluid.

The days of a tin lid with an air hole in it are long gone.

usefulmale

AdrianC wrote: »

Go and look at the reservoir cap.

I don't need to. If even a pinhole to the atmosphere existed in any part of the brake system, when the brake pedal is pushed, fluid would leak out of that pinhole, eventually leading to total loss of brake fluid. Its the basis for any hydraulic system. Same for your carjack. Close the valve and the jack can lift anything up to the failure point of the weakest component. Open that valve even slightly and the car will sink to the ground.

fred246

whitecloud663 wrote: »

My driving compromises of stop/start, less than 2 miles journeys on a daily basis.

I am sure you'r brake fluid will boil on every journey unless you get it changed immediately.

fred246

That last post was sarcastic (just in case!)

JustinR1979

usefulmale wrote: »

I don't need to. If even a pinhole to the atmosphere existed in any part of the brake system, when the brake pedal is pushed, fluid would leak out of that pinhole, eventually leading to total loss of brake fluid. Its the basis for any hydraulic system. Same for your carjack. Close the valve and the jack can lift anything up to the failure point of the weakest component. Open that valve even slightly and the car will sink to the ground.

Areas where the humidity level is usually very high would disagree.

usefulmale

JustinR1979 wrote: »

Areas where the humidity level is usually very high would disagree.

Thats because the moisture is absorbed through the brake hoses over time. At no time is the brake system open to the atmosphere. Total loss of fluid would occur long before failure through contamination with water if that were the case.