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Removing recessed spotlights

MSaxp
Posts: 208 Forumite


Hi helpful people.
Our (Taylor wimpey) newish house is full of recessed spotlights (GU10). I want to replace some of them with tiltable ones, but I can't work out how to remove any of them.
If you pull it down, it moves for about half an inch but then it feels like something is sticking on the back side of the ceiling. Looking inside the 'pot' it doesn't seem to have any levers, springs, screws etc, so I have no clue how I can take them out. Is there a chance they can't come out? Seems strange to think that I need to cut the ceiling open (plasterboard), in order to take the spotlight Base out.
Any ideas?
Our (Taylor wimpey) newish house is full of recessed spotlights (GU10). I want to replace some of them with tiltable ones, but I can't work out how to remove any of them.
If you pull it down, it moves for about half an inch but then it feels like something is sticking on the back side of the ceiling. Looking inside the 'pot' it doesn't seem to have any levers, springs, screws etc, so I have no clue how I can take them out. Is there a chance they can't come out? Seems strange to think that I need to cut the ceiling open (plasterboard), in order to take the spotlight Base out.
Any ideas?
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Comments
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First, can you get above at least one of them to inspect the way they are held in place - is one of them accessable from the loft for example. Otherwise, I would choose one out of the way and give it a good pull. Quite a few types have a sort of spring plate that is pushed in as you push the assembly up into the hole, and which then springs out to hold it in. This spring plate may be just offering resistance and will push back flush to the cylinder of the fitting as you pull down. Give one a good hard progressive pull downwards.0
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First, can you get above at least one of them to inspect the way they are held in place - is one of them accessable from the loft for example. Otherwise, I would choose one out of the way and give it a good pull. Quite a few types have a sort of spring plate that is pushed in as you push the assembly up into the hole, and which then springs out to hold it in. This spring plate may be just offering resistance and will push back flush to the cylinder of the fitting as you pull down. Give one a good hard progressive pull downwards.
as above, just sounds like they have decent springs fitted.
they will just have been snapped into place, no way will they need releasing from aboveI like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.
Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)
Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed0 -
Thank you for the advice. I will have a go at pulling one. They are all downstairs, so there is no way to access them from above.0
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There all installed from below ?
http://www.readersdigest.com.au/userfiles/chg-big.jpg
http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/light-fitting/install-downlights
shows what can and often happen if fittings are tight
http://www.litering.co.uk/styled-2/index.html
Sometimes the paint can stick to the gasket /light so scoring around them can help if you remove lamp/bulb you can normally see were the springs are located so fingers screwdriver etc should align with those positions
Most important thing is that replacement down lights are same size as those removed tilt /frog eye etc are normally bigger by about 10 mm and yes you can cut around the hole with a pad saw but is hard work also ensure the lip of the light fitting is big if possible this will cover any oversize of hole and don't go square there hard work too get all the angles correct and if the line of the originals is a few cm out you wouldn’t notice with round you will with square,0 -
Just to add .... when pulling the spot lights out keep your fingers well clear of the springs as some snap back like mouse traps ...... THEY HURT !You may click thanks if you found my advice useful0
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and make sure that the power is switched off. You have no idea how competently or carefully they were wired and there could be exposed or loose live wires up there.
Thick rubber kitchen gloves or gardening gloves will give you some protection from snapping springs but I'm not sure they will protect you from 230 volts.
Sorry if that is a grandma sucking eggs thing.A man walked into a car showroom.
He said to the salesman, “My wife would like to talk to you about the Volkswagen Golf in the showroom window.”
Salesman said, “We haven't got a Volkswagen Golf in the showroom window.”
The man replied, “You have now mate".0
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