could change oil filter during oil change.

JustinR1979

londonTiger wrote: »

I'll need to drain all this new oil out, and since my oil pain has so mmuchbuilt up ddirt and oil, I don't think it's wise to reuse it.

The recommended service is 12k miles anyway.

Do what??
Just leave it until you've got the tools to do it properly.

JustinR1979

Captaincodpiece wrote: »

Old skool. 😉

Yeah back when you had 3 foot of room to do it!
I wouldn't be without my 3 pronged thing

bod1467

londonTiger wrote: »

I'll need to drain all this new oil out, and since my oil pain has so mmuchbuilt up ddirt and oil, I don't think it's wise to reuse it.

The recommended service is 12k miles anyway.

I presume you mean oil pan? And what has that got to do with an oil filter question? (If you're changing the oil, it doesn't matter how dirty the pan is - you're not going to put that oil back in the engine, are you?) If the oil coming OUT is very dirty then you probably want to be changing the filter anyway - if the oil is really dirty then the filter may be on it's way to being clogged.

AdrianC

Assuming it's easily reachable, another vote for a big screwdriver through it. Alternatively, if you've got something like an old bit of thick string, even, wrap it around the filter and leave yourself a loop on the end. A pair of pliers or moles or whatever else is to hand through the loop, twist anti-clock. Keep twisting. Eventually, you'll have all the slack out of the string, and your twisting will be transferred to the filter. If it gets really tight, use something between the handles of the pliers/moles to lever with. It WILL come. Effectively, you're just molishing a strap wrench socket.


Or the string'll snap, and you'll thwunk your knuckles REALLY hard. In which case, it's not my fault, because you should have used stronger string.

Or... if you fancy getting REALLY bodgy on it, just fasten a jubilee clip around the filter, then hit the clamp bit with a hammer.

londonTiger

agrinnall wrote: »

How has your oil got so dirty that you feel it absolutely has to be changed after 6,000 miles and can't wait a week or two longer until you've got your tools back? Unless you're driving a very high performance car or your sump is full of rocks I very much doubt if the recommended oil change interval is that short.

Why do some mse users feel it's OK to cross examine someone's intent.

Who loosens or attempts to loosen an oil filter canister before taking oil out?

I drained all the oil and put a Sump plug back in. Then I tried to remove the old oil filter and then I realised shoot I've lent my adjustable wrench to someone and they haven't returned it. So then I'm left with 2 choices

1) pour the old oil back in from the filthy drain pan or
2) pour new oil in, perhaps oil filter is skippable every other oil change

Iceweasel

I would just put in the new oil and forget about changing the filter this time.

If you're doing 6k oil-changes there is no way the filter will be choked up by the time you get to the next oil-change.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

londonTiger wrote: »

Why do some mse users feel it's OK to cross examine someone's intent.

Who loosens or attempts to loosen an oil filter canister before taking oil out?

I drained all the oil and put a Sump plug back in. Then I tried to remove the old oil filter and then I realised shoot I've lent my adjustable wrench to someone and they haven't returned it. So then I'm left with 2 choices

1) pour the old oil back in from the filthy drain pan or
2) pour new oil in, perhaps oil filter is skippable every other oil change

got a similar sized G clamp? if you have use the G clamp on it!.


If no G clamp got an old bike chain laying around, wrap bike chain round filter tight, get a cloth cover both and use some elbow grease.


If no bike chain, then surely youd have some old car AMP positive battery wire there with the silicone type cover, and a large zip tie tie a large knot in wire place wire with knot end on the filter and zip tie it as hard as you can get it on to the filter make sure it is tight and that its in line to coil the rest of the wire round in an anticlockwise direction round the filter base coil it nice and tight, then pull hard down on the wire, this should loosen it.


a filter shouldn't be slammed too tight on the engine as over tightening will crush the rubber seal.


when fitting new, prefill filter with good oil and smudge a bit of it around the rubber seal too!.


they can also be vacuumed on by engine pressure, so releasing the sump plug helps disperse some of that vacuum.

londonTiger

AdrianC wrote: »

Assuming it's easily reachable, another vote for a big screwdriver through it. Alternatively, if you've got something like an old bit of thick string, even, wrap it around the filter and leave yourself a loop on the end. A pair of pliers or moles or whatever else is to hand through the loop, twist anti-clock. Keep twisting. Eventually, you'll have all the slack out of the string, and your twisting will be transferred to the filter. If it gets really tight, use something between the handles of the pliers/moles to lever with. It WILL come. Effectively, you're just molishing a strap wrench socket.


Or the string'll snap, and you'll thwunk your knuckles REALLY hard. In which case, it's not my fault, because you should have used stronger string.

Or... if you fancy getting REALLY bodgy on it, just fasten a jubilee clip around the filter, then hit the clamp bit with a hammer.

it's a mk4 golf, it's very tight in there and the filter is quite short. Here's the filter for my car: http://www.autopartoo.com/oem/bosch/P3318.html

I know you're not supposed to use a regular wrench to do up canisters as there is a chance of over tightening and the canister itself is thin walled and can easily shear.

But the only realistic way is to use a wrench (or some socket made out of plastic that fits the hex top on there.

I dont trust pure hand tightening, it makes me wonder whether it's going to undo itself from vibration of the car/engine - especially when the rubber has a lubricant [engine oil] in.

tberry6686

you can get sockets designed to fit over the end of these filters so a ratchet can loosen them. I recently had to get on for my MX-5 as the last garage to change it used a wrench to put it on. So little space around it that only the socket would work.

AdrianC

londonTiger wrote: »

I dont trust pure hand tightening,

Hand-tight is EXACTLY what's recommended. No more. And, no, the filter won't come loose.