New uPCV windows/doors - angle iron

hi all,

We are replacing our existing windows (aluminium) with uPVC ones. We are also replacing two external doors with French doors uPVC.

Our house was built around 1955 and we were wondering whether we should install Angle Iron to support the windows/doors?

We were also expecting the Window company to provide a quotation for the service. The guy keeps saying that we do not need the Angle Iron, but by doing some research I think it is a must in order to provide support for the bricks.

I would appreciate your comments from previous experiences.

thanks
«1

Comments

  • Doesn't it already have some sort of support/ lintel?

    Many years since I've had to use a length of angle, the building was much older than 1955 (by about a hundred years):)
  • Doesn't it already have some sort of support/ lintel?

    Many years since I've had to use a length of angle, the building was much older than 1955 (by about a hundred years):)

    Yes it does anybody who says it doesnt you should wave goodbye it is against bba guidelines as used by fensa certass and local authority to register your instalation
    if you think peoples advice is helpfull please take the time to clicking the thank you button it gives great satisfaction
  • Furts
    Furts Posts: 4,474 Forumite
    I am currently working on a home built in 1960 - a similar date to yours, All the homes- it is a vast estate of low grade, cheap, private housing built by a large local building company- have steel support for the brickwork. This is evident if one looks, and I am wondering if you already have support for your brickwork?

    Basically, if anyone was going to cut corners it would have been on this estate. But the brickwork support is present

    I am aware of houses built at your 1955 era which have brickwork support except on bay windows - which is a typical detail.

    Regardless, support for your brickwork is absolutely vital.
  • we have worked on dormer bungalows from mid to late 70s with no lintols
    if you think peoples advice is helpfull please take the time to clicking the thank you button it gives great satisfaction
  • jc808
    jc808 Posts: 1,756 Forumite
    The mark of a window fitter.

    Quote the lowest possible price on the basis of the least amount of work possible, dont mention the possible lack of a lintel.

    When it comes time to do the work, do it and make everything good. Then mention it to the houseowner, or even not at all.

    Now your fancy Britealite/ Argon/ thermoefficient double inductive magical super energy generating quantam dynamic plastic bloody window is now load bearing!!!
  • tony6403
    tony6403 Posts: 1,257 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Many houses in the late 1950's and 1960's were built with RSJs over the window openings on the inner leaf with the outer leaf (facing bricks) simply resting on the window frames. This would usually be done only where the aperture was no more than about 1.6m.
    I don't think that angle iron is acceptable but a building inspector may be the judge as I think that you will need Building Regs approval if your installer is not FENSA registered.
    Forgotten but not gone.
  • I have a bungalow from 1951, it has cast in place concrete lintels above the inner leaf, no idea about the outer leaf as I haven't hacked the render off to inspect. The garage, which is attached and single skin, has a cast in place lintel above its main and pedestrian doors though, so there is reasonable evidence for them being used throughout the entire structure.

    The only RSJ (angle iron?) in the place is above the main door of the second garage, which was constructed in the 1970s.
    Proud member of the wokerati, though I don't eat tofu.Home is where my books are.Solar PV 5.2kWp system, SE facing, >1% shading, installed March 2019.Mortgage free July 2023
  • al69
    al69 Posts: 65 Forumite
    It will all depend on the construction on the window bays and what was originally fitted. We had to fit angle irons above ours on our last house on the building inspectors recommendation. He took me for a walk down the road and showed me houses where it hadnt been fitted.It was so obvious as the bays were cantilevering away and they all had big cracks !!

    Certain bays for example may be ok with the steel support tubes in between the windows it really does come down to how the house is constructed.

    If you arent sure get the building inspector out, they have a lot of local knowledge and even though some trades hate them,they generally are working in the homeowners favor unlike the prson trying to get your ££££££.
  • Furts
    Furts Posts: 4,474 Forumite
    we have worked on dormer bungalows from mid to late 70s with no lintols

    My post brefers to a bungalow. There is no lintel for the face brickwork on the front and rear elevations - here the soffit board rests on top of the window. Normal practice and this works. But there is steel to carry the brickwork on the gable ends.

    Dormers will not have lintels because this is a timber construction. Again normal practice - the lintel will be a timber, hopefully!

    Are you saying there is nothing on your bungalows, anywhere, supporting the brickwork, even on the gables?
  • greenface
    greenface Posts: 4,871 Forumite
    Mortgage-free Glee!
    all houses and bungalows are different the OP says its a house . Some houses are perfectly fine without lintels . some have tied in header bricks. some have arch tops self supporting . Upstairs are often spread in the roof and sat under the soffits. Some council ones by me have internal steels and straps onto the back of facing bricks . They are scary to see the first time because it looks like it has no support. Why not knock a brick out and have a nose ?
    :cool: hard as nails on the internet . wimp in the real world :cool:
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