MOT time

ElkyElky

My car is due its mot in a few weeks and I want to check over the brake pads and discs (among other things) to make sure they're alright and if not, attempt to replace them myself. Just want to try and get my car to pass first time.

If I jack up the car and take the wheel off, am I able to see the pads without removing anything else? If so, what width should they be at a minimum?

Of course I'm going to check all the bulbs and other simple stuff like fluids but is there anything else I could possibly check myself?

Thanks!

Iceweasel

Yes - you should be able to see the pad thickness without dismantling anything else. You might need a torch to see clearly as the components might well be covered in brake dust.

The min thickness for the MOT is 1.5mm - but most cars will have a brake-pad wear indicator which would be triggered before that.

Don't forget to check the brake lights and rear fog lights.

specialboy

You may be able to check the pads without removing the wheels.

Joe_Horner

Things you can fairly easily check yourself:

Lights: remember brake, fog and number plate lights

Wipers: working on at least one speed, blades in reasonable condition, and park reasnably close to the bottom of the screen

Screenwash: Must work and give enough water to clean the screen

Horn~: Must work and be reasonably loud

Windscreen: no damage greater than 10mm diamater in direct vision or greater than 40mm diameter in the rest of swept area of wipers.

Mirrors: Must have driver's external (door or wing) mirror plus either internal rear-view or passenger side external mirror. Glass mustn't be damaged badly enough to prevent view to the rear. Mirrors must be able to adjust to give view to the rear.

Seatbelts: No damage to webbing, latches work properly and will release with the belt under tension. Inertia reel belts will retract all slack with the belt fastened across an empty seat.

Airbag / SRS and ABS warning lamps not showing a fault (ie: don't stay lit after startup)

Doors: All doors can be opened from the outside. Driver's and front passenger's must also open from the inside

Seats: All must be secure to the floor, all backrests must secure in an "upright" position. Driver's seat forwards-backards adjustment must work and secure in selected positions.

Bonnet and boot: Must latch securely in closed position. Unable to open isn't a fail itself, but may prevent the test from being completed.

Exhaust: Reasonably secure, no "major" leaks. For a rough guide, press your hand over the tailpipe with the engine running. You should feel pressure but may hear a slight "hiss" from joints.

Tyres (tread depth, no cuts or lumps, same sizes fitted across each axle - so both fronts must be the same, and both backs must be, but fronts and backs can be different), Spare isn't part of the test.

Handbrake isn't at the limit of its travel (ie: doesn't pull up too far)

Footbrake: Pedal doesn't sink to the floor if pressed firmly for several seconds with the engine running.

Brake servo (assuming fitted): Press the pedal several times with the engine off. Then press and hold pedal as you start the engine. The pedal should drop slightly towards the floor as the engine starts.

Bodywork: No sharp edges from damage or corrosion that might injure other road users.


That should keep you going for now

ElkyElky

Many thanks everyone. I know that some things are fine such as tyres (I'm in a good routine of checking them weekly) and exhaust (I've had two exhausts fail on me so I know a leak when I hear one!). I'll spend an hour going over the car looking at all points you've all suggested.

The only thing I'm concerned could fail me is brakes because I've been to Europe twice since the last service so they might be wearing down a little.

[Deleted User]

Tyres (tread depth, no cuts or lumps, same sizes fitted across each axle - so both fronts must be the same, and both backs must be, but fronts and backs can be different), Spare isn't part of the test.

Not true, took my previous car for MOT 4 years running with mixed tyres on the front axle. Not even a mention.

Iceweasel

Deleted_User wrote: »

Not true, took my previous car for MOT 4 years running with mixed tyres on the front axle. Not even a mention.

I'm afraid it is true and your tester is wrong, Lee.

Here is the wording from the tester's manual:

Reason for Rejection.

1. a. One tyre is of a different nominal size or aspect ratio to any other on the same axle

So Joe H is correct - the tyres on opposite sides of the same axle must be of the same dimensional data and construction type.

RMS2

ElkyElky wrote: »

If I jack up the car and take the wheel off, am I able to see the pads without removing anything else? If so, what width should they be at a minimum?

TBH, I would be concerned at your knowledge level, to tackle brakes.


They are usually straightforward, unless they've seized up a bit and the discs need replacing as well. The rear brakes can be a minefield. Are you going to remember to take the brake fluid cap off, use copper slip and have you got something to wind the calliper back in. Replacement bolts, which are nearly always not supplied.


You shouldn't be jacking the car up to change the brakes with a normal wheel jack from the boot. Do you know a good place for the trolley jack? Bleeding the brakes, you'll have to do that, unless you want brakes that feel like a wet sponge.


Probably better to have someone do them, as long as you're not taking it to Kwik Fit et al, for the MOT.

Iceweasel

I tend to agree with RMS2.

If you really judge that the pads and or discs need replacing then I would be shopping around a few indy garages for a quote for fitting them.

See if you can find a garage that will fit parts that you source yourself as you can make big savings buying good quality brake parts from the like of EuroCarParts or CarPartsForLess.

We're talking safety here on a much higher level than bulbs or wiper-blades.

As RMS says - in theory it's very straightforward but you are highly likely to encounter rusty or seized bolts which will turn a simple job nto a nightmare.

What car are we talking about here anyway?

atrixblue.-MFR-.

RMS2 wrote: »

TBH, I would be concerned at your knowledge level, to tackle brakes.


They are usually straightforward, unless they've seized up a bit and the discs need replacing as well. The rear brakes can be a minefield. Are you going to remember to take the brake fluid cap off, use copper slip and have you got something to wind the calliper back in. Replacement bolts, which are nearly always not supplied.


You shouldn't be jacking the car up to change the brakes with a normal wheel jack from the boot. Do you know a good place for the trolley jack? Bleeding the brakes, you'll have to do that, unless you want brakes that feel like a wet sponge.


Probably better to have someone do them, as long as you're not taking it to Kwik Fit et al, for the MOT.

That's what a Haynes manual is all about helping those who wish to DIY. same as forums.


OP without knowing your car you may need additional tools to replace the brake pads, such like a caliper rewind tool to fit your model, something to catch and store old brake fluid.

SailorSam

If you drive up & down a quiet road and slam on it may give you a feel of any unevenness in the brakes if you drift to one side.