brake issues on new (to me) car

gilbert_and_sullivan

tea_break wrote: »

Hmm. Just checked mileage on last mot, has only done just over 1000 miles since then, (now on 103,000 miles), so must have spent a long time sitting around in the past few months at the dealers. Well, I'm taking it back to garage tomorrow so hopefully that will sort it out.

Perfect conditions for rusted brake discs and seized calipers then, explains the seized one.

Vehicle last driven in salty conditions, then as per most owners not washed underneath after the salt is gone around late April/May, car then does only a handful of miles during the year possibly not even seeing any rain, meanwhile the salt bakes on and does it's serious damage unhindered.

If that car were mine, i'd pressure wash it underneath and then have a good poke nose, and armed with a wire brush and a half a dozen aerosol cans of Dinitrol or similar rustproofer of choice i would set about coating the unprotected parts before the next winter sets in, paying particular attention to brake lines, exposed body work, subframes, suspension parts and cavities.

arcon5

5-8 years trouble free motoring from a 10yr old petrol car
with over 100k. Good luck with that one.

Strider590

The brakes can be worn down to bare metal as long as it stops the car on the MOT brake test roller.

The noises OP is experiencing MIGHT just be down to the garage not using lubrication between the pad and caliper (old school copper slip, these days in a carbon based grease).

EDIT!!!

OR the technician accidentally knocked a heat shield (or dust shield or cars with alloy wheels) in toward the the disc, they did this to mine when it was in for it's cambelt, it squealed like a pig until around 60 miles later (2 days) I got the wheel off and bent the heat shield back out of the way!! It left a lovely 2mm wide groove in the disc though.....

motorguy

macman wrote: »

Even if the car was unroadworthy at the point of sale, which you could only prove if the parts had been retained, or if the garage could produce a report saying the discs and pads were worn beyond acceptable limits, you've no comeback now, because you went and got it repaired elsewhere.
The dealer needed to be given the opportunity to rectify any defects found.
Were there any advisories relating to the brakes on the MOT (though to be fair that was 7 months ago)?
If the car's been poorly serviced and maintained then it's unlikely that the brakes will be the only components needing attention in the next 5 years.

Pretty much this

If the owner believes there to be a fault, then they need to give the trader the opportunity to inspect the car and make good any FAULTS they find, so all a bit late now.

Sounds like the garage generated a very nice amount of work for themselves though.....

harveybobbles

Why didnt the OP take the car back to the selling dealer to ask if they would sort the brakes out?

Rear tyres wear funny on Accords - this could be the noise.

darkmatter101

tea_break wrote: »

Hello,
I am new to the forum and looking for some advice. I recently bought a 10 year old Honda accord from a dealer, who had said it was in good condition. I had it serviced and it turned out it needed new pads and discs as a matter of urgency. I had the repairs done but the rear wheel was then squeaking badly. I took it back to the garage and they said it needed a new caliper so I had that done as well. There is now a loud whirring sound coming from the rear wheels so I will have to take it back again next week.

At what point do these problems turn from being reasonable wear and tear issues in an older car to not being fit for purpose for sale in the first place? Do I have a case or, as repairs have already been done by someone else, does that affect my position as the dealer hasn't had a chance to sort it themselves?

Any advice appreciated, thanks. My gut feeling is to just get the brakes sorted and then have maybe 5-8 relatively trouble free years of motoring with it - its a 2 litre petrol.

My father had a Honda Accord (1885cc petrol VTEC), the one made from 1998-2003, which I also had the privilege of driving some years ago. Yours must must be the 2004-2008 model.

This could be the fault of the garage where you had repaired the brakes. If you bought from a dealer shouldn't you have the 1 year used Honda approved warranty? If the garage where you had repaired the brakes used genuine OEM parts you should take it back to the dealer and fix under warranty

almillar

darkmatter - I don't think main dealers will be selling 10 year old Accords so there'll be no Honda warranty.

tea_break

Just got it back, the brake pad wasn't quite lodged in properly so they re-adjusted it and seems OK now.
Re 'good luck with that one' comment. Why? Petrol accord seems to have good reputation for reliability and these boards, as well as piston heads, are awash with advice to go for eg 10 year old mondeos, petrol better as less likely to have expensive repairs than diesel. As far as I can see, Japanese older petrol cars are a good bet if your budget is around £2000.

tea_break

Garage generated nice amount of cash. Or fixed a problem that needed fixing.

tea_break

Sorry, above to Paul, haven't checked how to quote.