We'd like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum... Read More »
PLEASE READ BEFORE POSTING: Hello Forumites! In order to help keep the Forum a useful, safe and friendly place for our users, discussions around non-MoneySaving matters are not permitted per the Forum rules. While we understand that mentioning house prices may sometimes be relevant to a user's specific MoneySaving situation, we ask that you please avoid veering into broad, general debates about the market, the economy and politics, as these can unfortunately lead to abusive or hateful behaviour. Threads that are found to have derailed into wider discussions may be removed. Users who repeatedly disregard this may have their Forum account banned. Please also avoid posting personally identifiable information, including links to your own online property listing which may reveal your address. Thank you for your understanding.
📨 Have you signed up to the Forum's new Email Digest yet? Get a selection of trending threads sent straight to your inbox daily, weekly or monthly!
Opinions on the 3s on my Homebuyers Report please!
t1redmonkey
Posts: 945 Forumite
Hello - just had my homebuyer's report emailed to me today. It's the first time I've ever seen one (my first house I just had a basic valuation done on it) and there are some 3s that have come up on the report. If possible I'm looking for some opinions on:
- How many of them there are - is it a large amount?
- The nature of the comments, do they sound quite serious and can the work required be quite expensive? This is the most important point for me since I'm not going to be left with much money to get any major renovations done if/when I move into the house.
P.S. Apologies in advance, I know there's a lot of text below so really any comments at all on any of the sections are really appreciated
E4 - Main walls
The main house walls are finished in brick and render, measure approximately 250mm and 400mm thick and are assumed to be of solid construction.
There are signs that the property has been affected by past structural movement as evidenced by typical cracking to wall surfaces, and distortions throughout. So far as can be seen from this single inspection the movement appears to be longstanding and does not appear to be progressive. Seasonal movement may
occur due to the nature of the sub-soil.
I was unable to confirm the existence of a damp proof course. Systematic checks for dampness to the inside face of external walls reveals there is none of significance in the majority of locations, but high damp meter readings were taken to the hallway to the area at the bottom of the stairs, isolated readings were taken elsewhere to the ground floor to the front bay and along the party wall and
chimney breasts in the living room and to the chimney breast in the utility area. The levels of dampness noted are not considered excessive for a property of this age, and could probably be dealt with upon any works of redecoration/refurbishment. However, it is recommended that you obtain a further specialist advice prior to purchase so that you are fully aware of the extent of the
problems and the likely cost of remedial works.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a Property Care Association (PCA) contractor for the work required. See J1.
External ground levels appear too high along part of the rear elevation to the living room and ideally should be reduced to lessen the likelihood of damp penetration.
The walls to the rear porch are only single skin and do not comply with current requirements. Although not uncommon in properties of this type and age such walls are prone to condensation, dampness and heat loss problems, particularly where the external faces are in exposed locations. Internally the walls are dry lined which may mask these problems. You should consider upgrading such walls. See J1.
There is evidence of deterioration to the joints to the parapet wall structure above the bay. An overhaul is recommended. Some of the window sills also show signs of minor cracking which should also be subject to repair. See J1.
Parapet walls are particularly exposed to the weather and they and in this case the adjoining flat roof, require regular maintenance to ensure stability and that they are weatherproof.
F5 - Fireplaces, chimney breasts and flues
The majority of the original fireplaces have been removed and openings blockedup, but suitably vented. There is a wood burning stove fitted in the living room.
Unless Building Regulation approval or Certification by a HETAS registered contractor is available the appliance may not comply with regulations and insurers of the building may not honour a claim. See I1.
Of particular concern, there does not appear to be a suitable terminal to the chimney and it is essential that your seek further advice on this aspect. See J1 and J3.
Whilst the majority of the flues in the property appear to be suitably ventilated, flues do not appear to be capped. It is important to ensure that all flues are suitably ventilated and capped to prevent dampness and condensation and associated defects within the flues. Slightly high damp meter readings were taken in the chimney breast to the top floor, and this may be due to condensation in the chimney flue. I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a contractor for the work required. See J1.
G1 - Electricity
Mains electricity is connected with the meter and consumer unit located in the 3 ground floor hallway. There are also fuse boxes and coin meters in other locations in the property, although it is not clear whether these are still in use or connected. In view of this, and dated fittings, arrange for a qualified electrician (e.g. NICEIC/ECA registered) to test the installation and provide a report and quotation
for any recommended work with a subsequent test certificate when completed. See J1 & J3.
G2 - Gas/oil
Mains gas supply is connected with a meter located in the ground floor hallway. In view of the risks associated with gas you should arrange for a report and quotation from a Gas Safe registered engineer for any recommended work with subsequent test certificate. See J1 & J3.
G4 - Heating
The central heating system was not operating at the time of my inspection. Central heating is provided by a Main wall mounted gas fired condensing combination boiler located in the ground floor rear porch and supplying radiators. The boiler is fitted with a fan assisted flue.
Heating systems of this type require correct servicing and maintenance to ensure efficiency and safety.
It is recommended that you obtain further specialist advice on the condition of the heating system prior to purchase.
Ventilation to the living room stove may be inadequate and need improvement in the interests of safety. Further specialist advice must be obtained. See J3.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a Gas Safe registered engineer in respect of central heating and hot water system. I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a HETAS registered engineer in respect of the living room stove. See J1 and J3.
G5 - Water heating
Hot water appeared to be provided by the central heating boiler. There is a hot water storage cylinder located on the top landing, and fitted with an immersion heater, but it is not known whether this is still in operation, Further investigation should be made.
We would drawn your attention to the remarks contained in G4 above.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a Gas Safe registered engineer in respect of the central heating and hot water system. See J1 and J3.
G6 - Drainage
Drainage is assumed to connect into the public sewer. The system is likely to be shared with adjoining owners. Legal adviser should confirm the precise maintenance and repairing responsibilities. See I3.
There is an inspection chamber located within the site. Lifting the cover shows no indication of recent blockage or serious damage.
Gullies are in need of attention including, cleaning. The soil and vent pipes to the rear of the property should be fitted with suitable balloon covers, the rearmost soil pipe has an open joint, where it appears to have been connected to the former ground floor bathroom in the past, this should be suitably sealed. There are taped
joints to some waste pipes and there appear to be leakages at second floor level in the vicinity of the bathroom.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a contractor for the work required. SeeJ1 & J3.
H2 3 - Other
There is a small rendered block and slate store shed which is in generally poor condition and will require general maintenance and repair including, replacement of ridge tiles to prevent water penetration.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a contractor for the work required. See J1.
- How many of them there are - is it a large amount?
- The nature of the comments, do they sound quite serious and can the work required be quite expensive? This is the most important point for me since I'm not going to be left with much money to get any major renovations done if/when I move into the house.
P.S. Apologies in advance, I know there's a lot of text below so really any comments at all on any of the sections are really appreciated
E4 - Main walls
The main house walls are finished in brick and render, measure approximately 250mm and 400mm thick and are assumed to be of solid construction.
There are signs that the property has been affected by past structural movement as evidenced by typical cracking to wall surfaces, and distortions throughout. So far as can be seen from this single inspection the movement appears to be longstanding and does not appear to be progressive. Seasonal movement may
occur due to the nature of the sub-soil.
I was unable to confirm the existence of a damp proof course. Systematic checks for dampness to the inside face of external walls reveals there is none of significance in the majority of locations, but high damp meter readings were taken to the hallway to the area at the bottom of the stairs, isolated readings were taken elsewhere to the ground floor to the front bay and along the party wall and
chimney breasts in the living room and to the chimney breast in the utility area. The levels of dampness noted are not considered excessive for a property of this age, and could probably be dealt with upon any works of redecoration/refurbishment. However, it is recommended that you obtain a further specialist advice prior to purchase so that you are fully aware of the extent of the
problems and the likely cost of remedial works.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a Property Care Association (PCA) contractor for the work required. See J1.
External ground levels appear too high along part of the rear elevation to the living room and ideally should be reduced to lessen the likelihood of damp penetration.
The walls to the rear porch are only single skin and do not comply with current requirements. Although not uncommon in properties of this type and age such walls are prone to condensation, dampness and heat loss problems, particularly where the external faces are in exposed locations. Internally the walls are dry lined which may mask these problems. You should consider upgrading such walls. See J1.
There is evidence of deterioration to the joints to the parapet wall structure above the bay. An overhaul is recommended. Some of the window sills also show signs of minor cracking which should also be subject to repair. See J1.
Parapet walls are particularly exposed to the weather and they and in this case the adjoining flat roof, require regular maintenance to ensure stability and that they are weatherproof.
F5 - Fireplaces, chimney breasts and flues
The majority of the original fireplaces have been removed and openings blockedup, but suitably vented. There is a wood burning stove fitted in the living room.
Unless Building Regulation approval or Certification by a HETAS registered contractor is available the appliance may not comply with regulations and insurers of the building may not honour a claim. See I1.
Of particular concern, there does not appear to be a suitable terminal to the chimney and it is essential that your seek further advice on this aspect. See J1 and J3.
Whilst the majority of the flues in the property appear to be suitably ventilated, flues do not appear to be capped. It is important to ensure that all flues are suitably ventilated and capped to prevent dampness and condensation and associated defects within the flues. Slightly high damp meter readings were taken in the chimney breast to the top floor, and this may be due to condensation in the chimney flue. I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a contractor for the work required. See J1.
G1 - Electricity
Mains electricity is connected with the meter and consumer unit located in the 3 ground floor hallway. There are also fuse boxes and coin meters in other locations in the property, although it is not clear whether these are still in use or connected. In view of this, and dated fittings, arrange for a qualified electrician (e.g. NICEIC/ECA registered) to test the installation and provide a report and quotation
for any recommended work with a subsequent test certificate when completed. See J1 & J3.
G2 - Gas/oil
Mains gas supply is connected with a meter located in the ground floor hallway. In view of the risks associated with gas you should arrange for a report and quotation from a Gas Safe registered engineer for any recommended work with subsequent test certificate. See J1 & J3.
G4 - Heating
The central heating system was not operating at the time of my inspection. Central heating is provided by a Main wall mounted gas fired condensing combination boiler located in the ground floor rear porch and supplying radiators. The boiler is fitted with a fan assisted flue.
Heating systems of this type require correct servicing and maintenance to ensure efficiency and safety.
It is recommended that you obtain further specialist advice on the condition of the heating system prior to purchase.
Ventilation to the living room stove may be inadequate and need improvement in the interests of safety. Further specialist advice must be obtained. See J3.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a Gas Safe registered engineer in respect of central heating and hot water system. I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a HETAS registered engineer in respect of the living room stove. See J1 and J3.
G5 - Water heating
Hot water appeared to be provided by the central heating boiler. There is a hot water storage cylinder located on the top landing, and fitted with an immersion heater, but it is not known whether this is still in operation, Further investigation should be made.
We would drawn your attention to the remarks contained in G4 above.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a Gas Safe registered engineer in respect of the central heating and hot water system. See J1 and J3.
G6 - Drainage
Drainage is assumed to connect into the public sewer. The system is likely to be shared with adjoining owners. Legal adviser should confirm the precise maintenance and repairing responsibilities. See I3.
There is an inspection chamber located within the site. Lifting the cover shows no indication of recent blockage or serious damage.
Gullies are in need of attention including, cleaning. The soil and vent pipes to the rear of the property should be fitted with suitable balloon covers, the rearmost soil pipe has an open joint, where it appears to have been connected to the former ground floor bathroom in the past, this should be suitably sealed. There are taped
joints to some waste pipes and there appear to be leakages at second floor level in the vicinity of the bathroom.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a contractor for the work required. SeeJ1 & J3.
H2 3 - Other
There is a small rendered block and slate store shed which is in generally poor condition and will require general maintenance and repair including, replacement of ridge tiles to prevent water penetration.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a contractor for the work required. See J1.
0
Comments
-
Any house will need a bit of tidying up when you move in.t1redmonkey wrote: »
E4 - Main walls
The main house walls are finished in brick and render, measure approximately 250mm and 400mm thick and are assumed to be of solid construction.
This is an old property yes? Age?
There are signs that the property has been affected by past structural movement as evidenced by typical cracking to wall surfaces, and distortions throughout. So far as can be seen from this single inspection the movement appears to be longstanding and does not appear to be progressive. Seasonal movement may
occur due to the nature of the sub-soil.
so no issue
I was unable to confirm the existence of a damp proof course.
common in older properties
Systematic checks for dampness to the inside face of external walls reveals there is none of significance in the majority of locations, but high damp meter readings were taken to the hallway to the area at the bottom of the stairs, isolated readings were taken elsewhere to the ground floor to the front bay and along the party wall and
chimney breasts in the living room and to the chimney breast in the utility area. The levels of dampness noted are not considered excessive for a property of this age, and could probably be dealt with upon any works of redecoration/refurbishment.
so very minor - and surveyores' meters are very unreliable for checking damp.
However, it is recommended that you obtain a further specialist advice prior to purchase so that you are fully aware of the extent of the problems and the likely cost of remedial works.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a Property Care Association (PCA) contractor for the work required.
covering his ***
See J1.
External ground levels appear too high along part of the rear elevation to the living room and ideally should be reduced to lessen the likelihood of damp penetration.
common problem. Dig a trench sometime in the next few years
The walls to the rear porch are only single skin and do not comply with current requirements.
Of course they don't - it's an old property!
Although not uncommon in properties of this type and age such walls are prone to condensation, dampness and heat loss problems, particularly where the external faces are in exposed locations.
Any actual evidence of this? damp smell? peeling (or brand new!) wallpaper?
Internally the walls are dry lined which may mask these problems. You should consider upgrading such walls. See J1.
There is evidence of deterioration to the joints to the parapet wall structure above the bay. An overhaul is recommended. Some of the window sills also show signs of minor cracking which should also be subject to repair. See J1.
Parapet walls are particularly exposed to the weather and they and in this case the adjoining flat roof, require regular maintenance to ensure stability and that they are weatherproof.
So as with any old property, some ongoing maintenance required (eg re-pointing). No biggie
F5 - Fireplaces, chimney breasts and flues
The majority of the original fireplaces have been removed and openings blockedup, but suitably vented. There is a wood burning stove fitted in the living room. good
Unless Building Regulation approval or Certification by a HETAS registered contractor is available the appliance may not comply with regulations and insurers of the building may not honour a claim. See I1.hmm - depends on age of the stove. If it pre-dates BRs then approvalnot needed.
Of particular concern, there does not appear to be a suitable terminal to the chimney and it is essential that your seek further advice on this aspect. See J1 and J3.Buy a chimney pot for £20
Whilst the majority of the flues in the property appear to be suitably ventilated, flues do not appear to be capped. It is important to ensure that all flues are suitably ventilated and capped to prevent
dampness and condensation and associated defects within the flues.
Likewise - £10 - £20 each
Slightly high damp meter readings were taken in the chimney breast to the top floor, and this may be due to condensation in the chimney flue. I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a contractor for the work required. See J1.
Nothing at all unusual here for an older property. If worried, pay for further inspections (eg stove) and be prepared to hear "not to current standards". If using a contractor, expect to hear "I can fix it for £xx"
G1 - Electricity
Mains electricity is connected with the meter and consumer unit located in the 3 ground floor hallway. There are also fuse boxes and coin meters in other locations in the property, although it is not clear whether these are still in use or connected. In view of this, and dated fittings, arrange for a qualified electrician (e.g. NICEIC/ECA registered) to test the installation and provide a report and quotation
for any recommended work with a subsequent test certificate when completed. See J1 & J3.
As above - if in dobt get an electicians report. Sounds like the owner used to let out rooms....
G2 - Gas/oil
Mains gas supply is connected with a meter located in the ground floor hallway. In view of the risks associated with gas you should arrange for a report and quotation from a Gas Safe registered engineer for any recommended work with subsequent test certificate. See J1 & J3.
In other words - "I don't know anything about gas"
G4 - Heating
The central heating system was not operating at the time of my inspection. Central heating is provided by a Main wall mounted gas fired condensing combination boiler located in the ground floor rear porch and supplying radiators. The boiler is fitted with a fan assisted flue.
Heating systems of this type require correct servicing and maintenance to ensure efficiency and safety.
It is recommended that you obtain further specialist advice on the condition of the heating system prior to purchase.
In other words - "I don't know anything about gas".
Why not go and test it yourself? Not rocket science. Turn on heating. Check if radiators get hot & taps produce hot water......
Ventilation to the living room stove may be inadequate and need improvement in the interests of safety. Further specialist advice must be obtained. See J3.
as above
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a Gas Safe registered engineer in respect of central heating and hot water system. I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a HETAS registered engineer in respect of the living room stove. See J1 and J3.
as above
G5 - Water heating
Hot water appeared to be provided by the central heating boiler. There is a hot water storage cylinder located on the top landing, and fitted with an immersion heater, but it is not known whether this is still in operation, Further investigation should be made.
We would drawn your attention to the remarks contained in G4 above.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a Gas Safe registered engineer in respect of the central heating and hot water system. See J1 and J3.
as above. Plus .... switch on emmersion heater (not at same time as using boiler to check hot water!) and see if water heats up.....
G6 - Drainage
Drainage is assumed to connect into the public sewer. The system is likely to be shared with adjoining owners. Legal adviser should confirm the precise maintenance and repairing responsibilities. See I3.
check drainage search. Speak to neighbours. Ask vendor via solicitor.
There is an inspection chamber located within the site. Lifting the cover shows no indication of recent blockage or serious damage.
Gullies are in need of attention including, cleaning.
:rotfl:I've never heard of a 'drainage gulley' (sewer) that did not need cleaning....!)
The soil and vent pipes to the rear of the property should be fitted with suitable balloon covers,
£5
the rearmost soil pipe has an open joint, where it appears to have been connected to the former ground floor bathroom in the past, this should be suitably sealed.
5 minutes for an odd job man + ladder
There are taped joints to some waste pipes and there appear to be leakages at second floor level in the vicinity of the bathroom.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a contractor for the work required. SeeJ1 & J3.
odd job man can fix easily
H2 3 - Other
There is a small rendered block and slate store shed which is in generally poor condition and will require general maintenance and repair including, replacement of ridge tiles to prevent water penetration.
I recommend you obtain a report and quotation from a contractor for the work required. See J1.
An older house will need ongoing maintenance. If you're not prepared for this, buy a New Build from Wimpey.
There is absolutely nothing here worrying. After buying, put a list ogether and get a builder/odd job man round for a days work to do the lot.0 -
Thank you so much G_M - that's a really useful analysis. Most of the report just reads like a foreign language to me but it makes more sense with your comments in there.
It is an old property yes (built around 1900), and I did expect some things to flag up on the report to reflect that, plus when I viewed it it was obvious that it needed updating. I'm totally fine with this, I was just worried that there would be a bombshell in this report that might set me back thousands and thousands of pounds in the short term. Oh and yes, the rest of the report does pretty much conclude that it used to be a set of 3 self contained flats (probably decades ago).
Have passed the full report onto my solicitor anyway who said he'll have a look at the 3s on there and give me his opinion. Will see if it differs much to yours! Thanks again.0 -
The solicitor doesn't, frankly, need to know the first thing about buildings - so his opinion is as good as his DIY knowledge. Probably, actually, less useful, since he'll be very reluctant to give an opinion.
That's basically the biggest bunch of backside-covering I think I've ever read. It boils down to "I couldn't find anything really wrong, but didn't want to actually say that in case I missed something".
Having said that, you might want to investigate the electrics. They do sound... interesting. It might just be archeology, but I think I'd start by flipping any and every fusebox switch to "off" and pulling every fuse, then putting them all back in/on one-by-one to see what's what.0 -
Hmm ok, I might see if I can get an electrician in there sometime soon to have a look.
Also, I know the solicitor isn't really qualified to comment on most of the stuff in that report, but I just figured that having more opinions is never a bad thing 0 -
coin meters?
they're probably valuable antiques by now0 -
ps - If it's a 1900 house then your surveyor has missed out a serious paragraph:
"The foundations could not be inspected visually but are likely not to conform to the depth required by current building regulations."
What this means is that the house needs to be knocked down so that the foundations can be deepened so that the house does not fall down......0 -
of course if you do knock it down to stop it falling down and try and build it new with deeper foundations you may be refused planning permission midway through and you'll have to get your caravan you currently live in moved from the site within a few month as that's not allowed there either0
-
Now you're just being silly. The OP is clearly a law-abiding person who will do things properly.of course if you do knock it down to stop it falling down and try and build it new with deeper foundations you may be refused planning permission midway through and you'll have to get your caravan you currently live in moved from the site within a few month as that's not allowed there either
He'll have applied for planning permission for the caravan before moving it onto site & knocking down the house to build it new with deeper foundations to stop it falling down.0
This discussion has been closed.
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply
Categories
- All Categories
- 350.4K Banking & Borrowing
- 252.9K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 453.3K Spending & Discounts
- 243.4K Work, Benefits & Business
- 597.9K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 176.6K Life & Family
- 256.4K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
- 37.6K Read-Only Boards