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Roof Purlin 'Ends'

chrisrsmith
Posts: 174 Forumite


We have just had a survey performed on a two bed cottage. There is mention of suspected damp to the purlin ends. The surveyor is unsure if these were damp before the new roof (less than 2 years ago) and is recommending replacing both ends.
Is this an expensive job?
Is this an expensive job?
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Comments
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"suspected damp"? Either it is damp or it isn't.
Don't tell me...its a Homebuyers Report?
The important things to establish are.....
1. Is it actually damp?
2. If yes where is the damp coming from?
3. How long has it likely to have been damp and is there any deterioration of the timber?
If the purlin ends are rotten then they can be cut off and new sections spliced in with metal strengthening plates. Probably about £1k to £2k.0 -
I concur! It's a straightforward repair that any competent roofer can make or even a carpenter. Just inspect the area to establish the reason for water ingress.0
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Hi - thanks for the responses - this is the actual wording from the survey (building survey) and always stated over the phone by surveyor…...
"High moisture content was noted to the purlins built into the left hand gable. High moisture levels were noted in the gable wall. There is no evidence of a significant defect externally and this is likely to date from before the re-roofing / chimney removal and should eventually dry out.

As monitoring regularly would be impractical due to location, it would be prudent to replace the purlin ends to the left hand gable and also to check the ones on the right hand gable / replace if necessary."
Thoughts?0 -
It doesn't say there is rot present, just that there is dampness present. Replacing the ends is pointless unless the source of the damp is located and dealt with first.
I am not sure just how you can replace just the end of a purlin. Given that it such a crucial component in maintaining the shape and stability of the roof.
Access to a purlin end for monitoring purposes should not be particularly difficult. If it was my problem, I would be just monitoring it for a while to see if it does dry out. Before making any expensive decisions about replacement.I can afford anything that I want.
Just so long as I don't want much.0 -
I's also treat it with an all in one woodworm/wet/dry rot treatment. They thrive in/on damp timbers and as said the purlins matter.
No one bothered wrapping timbers that ran trough the walls back in the day so any moisture in the walls will transmit to the timber.
also, it was common practice even after cavity walls became normal to close the cavity at 1st floor ceiling level and build the gable ends in solid brick, ideal for penetrating damp.I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.
Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)
Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed0 -
chrisrsmith wrote: »Hi - thanks for the responses - this is the actual wording from the survey (building survey) and always stated over the phone by surveyor…...
"High moisture content was noted to the purlins built into the left hand gable. High moisture levels were noted in the gable wall. There is no evidence of a significant defect externally and this is likely to date from before the re-roofing / chimney removal and should eventually dry out.

As monitoring regularly would be impractical due to location, it would be prudent to replace the purlin ends to the left hand gable and also to check the ones on the right hand gable / replace if necessary."
Thoughts?
I think they are just covering their backs here.
Rot needs 2 things to thrive moisture and warmth so if the roof has been re-roofed and the moisture penetration has been solved it should be fine as the timber will dry out in time and any rot will die.
Personally I would dig out the sand and cement around the Purlin where its built into the wall and you may be able to see if the end is rotten and how far inside the wall it goes.As long as you have at least a couple of inches of good timber in the wall I would leave it and just spray some wood preserver inside the void.0 -
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ceredigion wrote: »:rotfl:
even a carpenter
I did notice that too...........I'm sure he doesn't mean it the way it looked..:D
Some see us Carpenter & Joiners as sub human even though most of us walk upright..0 -
leveller2911 wrote: »I did notice that too...........I'm sure he doesn't mean it the way it looked..:D
Some see us Carpenter & Joiners as sub human even though most of us walk upright..
I've re-arranged that
Most see us Carpenters as sub human even though some of us walk upright:rotfl::rotfl:
Sorry chapsI like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.
Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)
Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed0 -
ceredigion wrote: »:rotfl:
even a carpenter
Sorry, I didn't mean it like that :beer:
Although if it's damp I might even get a plumber in!0
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