Garden Tap

itisme

Hello There

My garden tap seems to have seized up, and was wondering
if I should try to turn it on with a pair of pliers, or do you think
that's not a good idea.
It was used last summer and remember it being a bit stiff then.

I'd have to get a plumber if it needs replacing as I wouldn't be able to
do it myself.
many thanks

shegar

What I usually do with anything that seems jammed or a bit tight is use some WD40 or 3 in 1 spray , failing that then id have to ask some one with a bit of knowledge to help me......But thats my first port of call...

itisme

Thanks shegar I have covered it with WD40 the other day but still too scared to put too much presure in case it snaps

flashg67

Just to be safe, can you isolate (turn off) just the outside tap - most modern(ish) installations have an isolation valve in the pipework before the tap which is turned off just using a screwdriver. Doing this means you can try the outside tap without losing the household water supply if the worst happens and the outside tap does break.

itisme

No there is not an isolation valve on the pipework, I would have to turn off the stopcock.

trollopscarletwoman

Any chance of a picture of the tap?

suse*

I had one replaced this year and it was 20 quid, but he was doing some other work at the same time as well, so I don't know if that would make it more for you if that is the only job you need doing.

cyclonebri1

The good news is that if it shuts and you snap the stem trying to open it it will still be stuck shut. The valve seat tends to corrode and stick the thing closed. That's the point you may need the plumber in your case;);)

Itisme, you really should have an isolation valve inside the house, but after the stop !!!!. This enables you to shut the system down over winter and open the outside tap to drain off and protect from freezing. That way it also does stick on it's seat.

PS, you will need more than pliers to free it if properly seized.

itisme

Sorry but unable to take a photo, but found this on google after typing in "outside tap" and go onto images it looks like No. 6 picture. Hope this link works

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/5919/leakytap.jpg

Mine goes straight into the wall, then the pipework inside the house is hidden behind the back of the cupboard, would have to some how make hole in back of cupboard to be able to get to it in order to put a isolation valve on.
It's had a tap cover on it all the time.
If I do manage to turn it on what is best to grease it with to stop it getting so tight, it never felt like it had a washer in it when it was working.
thanks all for helping

cyclonebri1

itisme wrote: »

Sorry but unable to take a photo, but found this on google after typing in "outside tap" and go onto images it looks like No. 6 picture. Hope this link works

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/5919/leakytap.jpg

Mine goes straight into the wall, then the pipework inside the house is hidden behind the back of the cupboard, would have to some how make hole in back of cupboard to be able to get to it in order to put a isolation valve on.
It's had a tap cover on it all the time.
If I do manage to turn it on what is best to grease it with to stop it getting so tight, it never felt like it had a washer in it when it was working.
thanks all for helping

If it's a stop !!!! as such it doesn't have a washer, it's brass on brass and it's the interface that locks up.

It will have a gland nut around the valve stem, undo this, grease inside and then replace the gland nut. This really shouldn't need doing as the gland packing should be self lubricating, but it won't hurt and should make the valve easier once you have freed it.

Try pouring a kettle of boiling water slowly over it before you attempt to turn it, use gloves

southcoastrgi

it will have a washer cy