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Boiler worries

Hi All.

I'm seeking advice on a boiler issue.

We've got a fairly old Ideal Mini combi boiler (it's C24, but not sure if 'HE' or not, for those in the know). Reckon it's around 10 years old (it was in the house when we moved in).

It is having the following issue:

when we turn the hot tap on, sometimes (increasingly frequently) the water doesn't get hot. However, if I go and turn the room thermostat up, to activate the central heating, the boiler comes on. If I then turn the thermostat back down, the hot tap then works properly.

I'm a bit worried because we have a baby, so want to feel that this is sorted over the summer.

Does this sound like an easyish fix, as would prefer to repair than replace.

OTOH, the boiler is quite old, and we're going to be redecorating the landing (where it is), in the next couple of years, so would be a bit disappointed if we did that, and then messed it up by having to replace the boiler straightaway.

Green Deal sounds like a vaguely tempting way to replace.

So, would you repair or replace?

Any advice gratefully received...

Thanks all.

Tim
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Comments

  • cyclonebri1
    cyclonebri1 Posts: 12,827 Forumite
    sjoh0961 wrote: »
    Hi All.

    I'm seeking advice on a boiler issue.

    We've got a fairly old Ideal Mini combi boiler (it's C24, but not sure if 'HE' or not, for those in the know). Reckon it's around 10 years old (it was in the house when we moved in).

    It is having the following issue:

    when we turn the hot tap on, sometimes (increasingly frequently) the water doesn't get hot. However, if I go and turn the room thermostat up, to activate the central heating, the boiler comes on. If I then turn the thermostat back down, the hot tap then works properly.

    I'm a bit worried because we have a baby, so want to feel that this is sorted over the summer.

    Does this sound like an easyish fix, as would prefer to repair than replace.

    OTOH, the boiler is quite old, and we're going to be redecorating the landing (where it is), in the next couple of years, so would be a bit disappointed if we did that, and then messed it up by having to replace the boiler straightaway.

    Green Deal sounds like a vaguely tempting way to replace.

    So, would you repair or replace?

    Any advice gratefully received...

    Thanks all.



    Tim


    Green deal stinks, you never get any benefit from it and it has implications when you sell the house, the energy debt stays with the house/new owner.

    Just replaced my old combi, that was 17 years old and still working perfectly, but there is a price for peach of mind.

    Daughter has a 2nd house on let, house/boiler is 6 years old.

    Boiler was probably £600-700 when new, it's had repairs costing over that already.

    My view is buy a decent boiler now.;)
    I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.

    Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)

    Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed
  • jbainbridge
    jbainbridge Posts: 2,034 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    Could be the divertor valve?? No idea on cost, sorry.
  • Crinkmeister
    Crinkmeister Posts: 473 Forumite
    Possibly, but it's a job for a GSR engineer, not a DIY job.
  • ilikewatch
    ilikewatch Posts: 1,072 Forumite
    Possibly, but it's a job for a GSR engineer, not a DIY job.

    What? To replace a divertor valve? Why would it need a GSR engineer to replace a plumbing component that doesn't process gas/exhaust?
  • Plumber90
    Plumber90 Posts: 280 Forumite
    Seventh Anniversary 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    Because if it's inside the boiler you have to be gas safe to open it up. If you remove the case of a boiler and you are not gas safe you are braking the law.
  • Ectophile
    Ectophile Posts: 8,407 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    Plumber90 wrote: »
    Because if it's inside the boiler you have to be gas safe to open it up. If you remove the case of a boiler and you are not gas safe you are braking the law.

    Not necessarily.

    If you want to work on your own boiler, you only have to be competent to do so. You don't have to be registered.

    On some boilers, it's possible to remove the outer covers without opening up the combustion chamber.
    If it sticks, force it.
    If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.
  • southcoastrgi
    southcoastrgi Posts: 6,298 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    ilikewatch wrote: »
    What? To replace a divertor valve? Why would it need a GSR engineer to replace a plumbing component that doesn't process gas/exhaust?
    Plumber90 wrote: »
    Because if it's inside the boiler you have to be gas safe to open it up. If you remove the case of a boiler and you are not gas safe you are braking the law.
    Ectophile wrote: »
    Not necessarily.

    If you want to work on your own boiler, you only have to be competent to do so. You don't have to be registered.

    On some boilers, it's possible to remove the outer covers without opening up the combustion chamber.

    on this boiler it doesn't need the combustion chamber cover to be removed to change the divertor valve so you don't need to be an RGI to replace/repair the valve
    I'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.

    You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.
  • sjoh0961
    sjoh0961 Posts: 84 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Thanks for all replies. Firstly, must correct myself: it's a C28.

    Southcoastrgi - Thanks for the info you gave, but you didn't actually venture an opinion on whether you agree that the diverter valve is the likely cause?

    If it is is then:

    a) Do you think I could fix it (I'm a beginning DIYer, but I'm not stupid - could follow instructions etc. if I download the manual, and I have an experienced DIY Dad;

    b) If I get someone to fix it, what would you expect it to cost, roughly (assuming it's the divertor valve).

    Many thanks,

    Tim
  • sickparrot
    sickparrot Posts: 816 Forumite
    edited 18 June 2014 at 4:43PM
    I've just done a diverter valve on a C28, same issues as you with the added fun of water leaking out of the top of it and getting into the motorised actuator.

    You need a repair kit which was ludicrously expensive for what it was, a couple of brass lumps with springs, i've seen it over £100 on some sites but I managed to get one for about £50.

    I think this is the one http://www.keeptheheaton.com/products/42881-ideal-172507-diverter-valve-kit

    It's not an easy job because you need to close the heating circuit, drain the boiler (which is messy and takes ages), then remove the exchanger from the back of the gubbins and various other pipes before the diverter can be removed and it's innards replaced.

    Mine worked fine afterwards, so it was worth it but theres lots of potential to !!!! it up.

    Edit: you'll need a bunch of new fibre washers when you put it back together too.
    Out on blue six..
    It's Chips and Jackets, Peas and Trousers.
  • sjoh0961
    sjoh0961 Posts: 84 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Thanks sickparrot, that's good information, and definitely sounds beyond me, so time to call in the professionals, I guess....

    Anyone suggest how much I should be looking at?

    Tim
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