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Existing oven hard wired. New one has a plug?
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Now I'm home I had a look at the wall switch. It is like the one DTDFanboy posted, so no fuse. The only fuse is back on the consumer unit. Tempting to swap that fuse on the consumer unit for a 13amp and hard wire it. But I think I am won over by SailorSam's suggestion. Just use an extension cable until the electrician is here. He is coming anyway, so not any trouble to get him to do it. And the extension cable although not ideal will let us have an oven for the next couple of weeks while we wait.
Thank you for your advice all.0 -
I hope you didn't teach electronics for long :cool:
I'm in full agreement, that particular contribution from rochja shows perfectly the difference between someone that has done a multiple choice exam after 6 months of day release college and someone that does the job for real day in and day out.
@ Procrastinator333
If you follow rochja's advice then you face the possibility that not only could your house insurance be invalidated, but also very serious charges if a fire broke out and someone was hurt/killed due to negligence on your part regarding wiring.Understeer is when you hit a wall with the front of your car
Oversteer is when you hit a wall with the back of your car
Horsepower is how fast your car hits the wall
Torque is how far your car sends the wall across the field once you've hit it0 -
People seem to think the fuse is there to protect the device, its not, the fuse is there to protect the cable.
Therefore the fuse used should be applicable to the cable it is rated at.0 -
Procrastinator333 wrote: »Now I'm home I had a look at the wall switch. It is like the one DTDFanboy posted, so no fuse. The only fuse is back on the consumer unit. Tempting to swap that fuse on the consumer unit for a 13amp and hard wire it. But I think I am won over by SailorSam's suggestion. Just use an extension cable until the electrician is here. He is coming anyway, so not any trouble to get him to do it. And the extension cable although not ideal will let us have an oven for the next couple of weeks while we wait.
Thank you for your advice all.
You can 't get a 13A fuse for a consumer unit and it's far more dangerous for the a DIYer to swap over something in the consumer unit than to switch off the circuit and change a connection plate to a single socket...
BUT If you DO use an extension cable, please don't use a really long one and please unreel it fully before use - otherwise you can end up with melted cable or plug or both0 -
OK, I admit I am both long in the tooth and was versed in 15th edition regs. Apologies to all. In my defence my one year old house has a dedicated RCD as has every house I have lived in since adulthood. I know a lot of regs have been tightened since so I assumed this one would not have been relaxed. Indeed I was thinking the oven must have been some sort of grey import but was too polite to say it. Back to school I guess.
Fluffpot: Sorry for impugning your skills.
PS I was very careful not to advise connecting it oneself if you read my post.Life is like a box of chocolates - drop it and the soft centres splash everywhere0 -
Just out of interest, is this a duel-fuel cooker or a separate oven?
It is my understanding that while electric ovens (modern ones at least) don't draw enough current to require a dedicated circuit, electric hobs certainly do - so I'm assuming this doesn't have a hob.Let's settle this like gentlemen: armed with heavy sticks
On a rotating plate, with spikes like Flash Gordon
And you're Peter Duncan; I gave you fair warning0 -
@fluffpot. Yeah, I checked the wattage on the extension cable before use.
@ benjus, it was just a single built in oven, no hob.
All sorted now. Thanks all.0
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