Chainsaw recommendation

Gloomendoom

I sharpen after every use, sometimes during use. It depends on what, and how much, I'm cutting. Three strokes of the file is all it takes. For a big job, I take a spare ready sharpened chain to save time.

If a chain needs replacing after it's been sharpened twice, I suspect that whoever is sharpening it is being a bit too enthusiastic. There is usually about 5mm of steel to get through before you get to the wear limit indicator.

cyclonebri1

Gloomendoom wrote: »

I sharpen after every use, sometimes during use. It depends on what, and how much, I'm cutting. Three strokes of the file is all it takes. For a big job, I take a spare ready sharpened chain to save time.

If a chain needs replacing after it's been sharpened twice, I suspect that whoever is sharpening it is being a bit too enthusiastic. There is usually about 5mm of steel to get through before you get to the wear limit indicator.

If three strokes of the file puts an edge on it, you have altered the angle and that's the issue.
Yes you can cut a more obtuse angle with the file, but it is less than ideal. To sharpen a blade that has the edge taken of needs at least 5 and probably 10 thou filing off for the whole of the thickness of the blade.

Sorry, 3 strokes does not work, x that by about 20 teeth and figure a minute per tooth and you are closer.

Gloomendoom

I use the correct angle for every single tooth. I have no choice because I use a clamp-on sharpening jig.

Three strokes is all it needs. How old are your files?

cyclonebri1

Gloomendoom wrote: »

I use the correct angle for every single tooth. I have no choice because I use a clamp-on sharpening jig.

Three strokes is all it needs. How old are your files?

Brand new, the other comment I was going to add was that if three stokes fixes it, it didn't need sharpening in the first place. I'm deadly serious, you can't see a radius that 3 strokes could remove across the blade

Maybe I chop more wood than you before I sharpen the blades?

Gloomendoom

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Brand new, the other comment I was going to add was that if three stokes fixes it, it didn't need sharpening in the first place. I'm deadly serious, you can't see a radius that 3 strokes could remove across the blade

Maybe I chop more wood than you before I sharpen the blades?

I think that is the difference between you and me. I sharpen a little and often and you don't.

I don't need to see a radius, I keep an eye on the chips that the saw is making and sharpen the chain when they start turning to dust.

Pop over to the Arbtalk forum and ask for comments on your practice of sharpening a chain twice in its lifetime. I'd be interested in reading the replies.

cyclonebri1

Gloomendoom wrote: »

I think that is the difference between you and me. I sharpen a little and often and you don't.

I don't need to see a radius, I keep an eye on the chips that the saw is making and sharpen the chain when they start turning to dust.

Pop over to the Arbtalk forum and ask for comments on your practice of sharpening a chain twice in its lifetime. I'd be interested in reading the replies.

Life's too short and chains are too cheap. that is meant without offence.

Look, it depends on what you are cutting and even who borrows your saw:eek:, I have progeny, :D

Cut a sleeper or 2 and the blade needs sharpening badly, ash and grit and sand etc.. Cut a tree that's had nails banged in for swings and ropes etc, and the 1st touch is a blade that needs severe re-sharpening.

I think that's the difference in the what we do, virgin wood must be great, I seldom see it.

But, getting back on track if the OP has no snags to deal with, a couple of chains per years is the way to go.

No more arguments, we just have different perspectives:T:T