Chainsaw recommendation

chrisrsmith

I am soon moving to a property that has endless free supply of timber and am looking to convert the current wood burner to one with a back burner.

I have a 'basic' McCulloch chainsaw but recognise that I will need something heftier to down trees / cut trunks - fallen or otherwise.

Any recommendations for a good reliable petrol saw and possibly sellers?

Gloomendoom

As always I'd recommend asking for advice on the arbtalk forum.

I have a Husqvarna 550xp with a 15" bar as my main saw and I'm very happy with it. I bought it from F R Jones and Son.

cyclonebri1

chrisrsmith wrote: »

I am soon moving to a property that has endless free supply of timber and am looking to convert the current wood burner to one with a back burner.

I have a 'basic' McCulloch chainsaw but recognise that I will need something heftier to down trees / cut trunks - fallen or otherwise.

Any recommendations for a good reliable petrol saw and possibly sellers?

Is that petrol or electric??

I have a McCulloch petrol 16" chainsaw, forget the model. It is perfectly adequate for most large gardens. Has taken down 18" dia pear trees and conifers and with a bit of work over 22" willows. On about blade number 7 right now, (I also cut sleepers).

Hintza

Husq or Stihl. But as was said try with what you have don't rush in to it.

Leon_W

I think the Stihl is the one to go for if your going to be doing a lot of work. I know they're pricey but it's what the pros use.


I've got one that I've had for years, but funnily enough I've also got a cheap Ryobi which is the one I reach for when doing smaller jobs.

gamston

Do you look after your tools ? if you do go for a Stihl, it was the best chain saw I had
if you don't look after your tools (that's me) go for the cheapies on ebay (around £60) then change it each year or so (that's what I do)

gmgmgm

Hintza wrote: »

Husq or Stihl. But as was said try with what you have don't rush in to it.

As he says.

Don't underestimate cutting down a tree- it's not as trivial as it looks. You don't necessarily need to do one of the 1 or 5 day courses, but make sure you know what you're doing!

If they're big trees, expect to end up with 2 chainsaws, for when one gets stuck.

Gloomendoom

gmgmgm wrote: »

If they're big trees, expect to end up with 2 chainsaws, for when one gets stuck.

Ha ha! People always ask why I have more than one. One main saw, one backup for the odd occasion when the main saw gets stuck, an electric saw for not p!ssing off the neighbours on a Sunday morning and a crappy old Aldi saw I keep for dirty jobs like railway sleepers... if it still works. I haven't used it in ages.

OP note that although pros use Husky and Stihl in the main, both those companies make a cheaper range of saws aimed at the amateur and they are not built to as high a standard. You get what you pay for.

chrisrsmith

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Is that petrol or electric??

I have a McCulloch petrol 16" chainsaw, forget the model. It is perfectly adequate for most large gardens. Has taken down 18" dia pear trees and conifers and with a bit of work over 22" willows. On about blade number 7 right now, (I also cut sleepers).

It's a Petrol model 371.

Davesnave

A Husky or Stihl saw for outdoors and large jobs, but for turning most cut wood into logs, I just use an electric (in the warm and dry!)

My leccy saw is attached to a Portek saw bench, so I can use it single handed. Makes for a faster work rate.

cyclonebri1

chrisrsmith wrote: »

It's a Petrol model 371.

Just checked mine and it's an 838s-AV, probably 10 years old now.

I'm a big believer in by right and buy once?, but I think the OP is in just that area where what he already has may well suffice.

I hinted at it earlier, it's keeping a sharp blade that matters, that way the Mac will do most work if it's simply supplying your single household.

Regarding chains, I don't know what most do, but I find after I've sharpened twice, it's time for a new chain.
Cost of having it pro shop sharpened is greater than the chain cost.
Plus, hitting gunge and nails etc takes just the same toll no matter what saw you are using.

OP, there's a common answer developing, ie, try/use what you have until you do actually need a replacement.

Safety hat on here, if you are doing this on a regular basis at the very least get a pair of "chain saw trousers", the sort that are nylon filled and snag and stall the saw if you catch them.:A