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Mot failure ford ka 97
Hi
My MOT just failed on a Ford KA 97, that has done just over 64k miles.
I've had it for four years and its been fine, good on petrol, insurance etc. However, during this 4 years it hasnt been moved for quite a while.
I wanted to do some servicing and the MOT this year and found that the repairing would be a lot higher that I actually expected. I also feel that when I got this "offer" through to Groupon, seems that the place is trying to make more money from me due to the reasons for refusal of Test Certificate, which Ill mention below:
1) Nearside Rear position lamp adversely affected by the operation of another lamp (1.1.A.3f)
2 Offside Rear position lamp adversely affected by the operation of another lamp (1.1.A.3f)
3) Offside outer fron anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.g.2)
4) Offside front suspension arm rubber bush bonding deteriorated resulting in excessive movement (2.4.g.2)
5) Nearside rear Macpherson strut has excessive movement in the upper support bearing assembly (2.5.b.1b)
6) Offside rear Macpherson strut has excessive movement in the upper support bearing assembly (2.5.b.1b)
Sounds like its going to cost a fortune to fix, is it worth it? I would like to keep the car and keep saving so I can afford a better one maybe next year.
Any ideas on roughly how much it will cost to fix the problems above?
Many thanks.
My MOT just failed on a Ford KA 97, that has done just over 64k miles.
I've had it for four years and its been fine, good on petrol, insurance etc. However, during this 4 years it hasnt been moved for quite a while.
I wanted to do some servicing and the MOT this year and found that the repairing would be a lot higher that I actually expected. I also feel that when I got this "offer" through to Groupon, seems that the place is trying to make more money from me due to the reasons for refusal of Test Certificate, which Ill mention below:
1) Nearside Rear position lamp adversely affected by the operation of another lamp (1.1.A.3f)
2 Offside Rear position lamp adversely affected by the operation of another lamp (1.1.A.3f)
3) Offside outer fron anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.g.2)
4) Offside front suspension arm rubber bush bonding deteriorated resulting in excessive movement (2.4.g.2)
5) Nearside rear Macpherson strut has excessive movement in the upper support bearing assembly (2.5.b.1b)
6) Offside rear Macpherson strut has excessive movement in the upper support bearing assembly (2.5.b.1b)
Sounds like its going to cost a fortune to fix, is it worth it? I would like to keep the car and keep saving so I can afford a better one maybe next year.
Any ideas on roughly how much it will cost to fix the problems above?
Many thanks.
0
Comments
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Suspension arms can be picked up from less than £20.
Anti-rollbar end balljoint is a drop link From about £6.
Pair of rear top bushes about £32
Lights either a bad earth or a wrongly fitted bulb.
You could spend £400 - £500 on something needing much more.Censorship Reigns Supreme in Troll City...0 -
forgotmyname wrote: »Suspension arms can be picked up from less than £20.
Anti-rollbar end balljoint is a drop link From about £6.
Pair of rear top bushes about £32
Lights either a bad earth or a wrongly fitted bulb.
You could spend £400 - £500 on something needing much more.
I've removed my post as my figures were too far out :eek:0 -
On the plus side, they didnt hightlight any areas of rot - something a Ka is renowned for.
My immediate thought that this would be a rot failure.
Price the job up and then decide on the age of the car alone it will be getting close to retiring it. But if the engine etc is sweet it might be just worth another year or so until you hear the words corrosion.0 -
KA's rot like mad, especially sills, around the fuel filler and the rear wiper. A real shame, because the Endura engines are bullet proof.0
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If it's running well and no corrosion then get those minor wear & tear bits done and smother it underneath and inside the sills etc in cavity wax to keep the rot at bay.
These almost certainly will be a future classic because they were very very "different" when they came out, sold by the bucket load, most owners love them, and most of them are falling apart from rust.
Look at the prices that Minis (even the later ones) fetch now for an idea of what that combination can do for the survivors!0 -
Are you sure it didn't mention corrosion on a 17 year old Ka???????
If the car really is solid, the suspension bits are peanuts to fix at your friendly, local, independent garage, I strongly suspect they used the wrong fails for the side lights, unless you've fitted extra lights and they are being obscured.
Get it priced up, you may be very pleasantly surprised to get another years cheap motoring out of it.0 -
:j Yeyyyyy
Thank you all for your help.
My garages is trying to charge me 400 between parts and labour0 -
Are you sure it didn't mention corrosion on a 17 year old Ka???????
If the car really is solid, the suspension bits are peanuts to fix at your friendly, local, independent garage, I strongly suspect they used the wrong fails for the side lights, unless you've fitted extra lights and they are being obscured.
Get it priced up, you may be very pleasantly surprised to get another years cheap motoring out of it.
No mods on side lights.
Thank you for your help0 -
Are you sure it didn't mention corrosion on a 17 year old Ka???????
If the car really is solid, the suspension bits are peanuts to fix at your friendly, local, independent garage, I strongly suspect they used the wrong fails for the side lights, unless you've fitted extra lights and they are being obscured.
Get it priced up, you may be very pleasantly surprised to get another years cheap motoring out of it.
Ford disco lights are a classic, your tail goes on and off out of phase with your indicator - bad earth as mentioned above.The truth may be out there, but the lies are inside your head. Terry Pratchett
http.thisisnotalink.cöm0 -
:j Yeyyyyy
Thank you all for your help.
My garages is trying to charge me 400 between parts and labour
That sounds reasonable to keep the car on the road for another 12 months.
It could be more than that buying a different car and the risk of other issues. A new car would certainly be way more than that in depreciation alone.Remember the saying: if it looks too good to be true it almost certainly is.0
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