12 month MOT vs AA inspection

Royal1664

Apologies if this has been done to death, I'm new to the site and needed some advice quickly.
I'm going throughout the process of buying a car privately and just trying to cover my bases.
The cars an 2007 Audi TDI with low milage. Its just been MOT'd this month and passed, I asked for the VC5 number and checked the MOT history. Its passed every MOT since its first in 2010 and only done between 6-10k per year. The only thing picked up in the advisory notices over the years has been: Rear both Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g). However, it has this notice on three occasions. Is that something to be concerned about?

More to the point. If its just has the MOT is it worth getting and AA vehicle inspection? Will they cover more bases?

Cheers

bigadaj

Royal1664 wrote: »

Apologies if this has been done to death, I'm new to the site and needed some advice quickly.
I'm going throughout the process of buying a car privately and just trying to cover my bases.
The cars an 2007 Audi TDI with low milage. Its just been MOT'd this month and passed, I asked for the VC5 number and checked the MOT history. Its passed every MOT since its first in 2010 and only done between 6-10k per year. The only thing picked up in the advisory notices over the years has been: Rear both Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g). However, it has this notice on three occasions. Is that something to be concerned about?

More to the point. If its just has the MOT is it worth getting and AA vehicle inspection? Will they cover more bases?

Cheers

Yes they are not the same.

The mot basically just checks the car isn't dangerous, so a car can pass its mot but not run, so long as it can stop; ok not correct but that's the basic principle.

A vehicle inspection should throw up any obvious faults with the car that won't be covered by mot. A private sale means you've got no comeback in terms of sale of goods act so probably worthwhile if you don't know much about cars, and haven't got soe,one you trust to check it out.

spacey2012

With any second hand car, knowing the mileage things start to drop apart also helps.
Audis are usually good for 150k.
About twice what a vauxhall diesel is.

AdrianC

Brake pads are a service item anyway. Whether they were thin or not several years ago tells you precisely nothing.

forgotmyname

Does it have a proper service history between the MOTs? Or one of those owners that only repair stuff that fails the MOT.

If they say the pads are low on several MOTs then maybe they were not as thin as they made out or the owner is very gentle on the brakes.

jimjames

You might also want to check out a couple of threads here about common Audi TDI faults and make sure you are aware of those so they can be checked if possible

salubrious

Go for the AA inspection - It includes more checks relevant for a car buyer like yourself

NewUserHere

Even an AA check won't pick up on some major things though. Some things can only really be picked up on whilst driving and knowing what to license/feel for. Then of course there is sheer luck of the draw.

Quiet_Spark

NewUserHere wrote: »

Even an AA check won't pick up on some major things though. Some things can only really be picked up on whilst driving and knowing what to license/feel for. Then of course there is sheer luck of the draw.

Part of the AA inspection does include the car being driven, and not just around the block either.

Prothet_of_Doom

Daft question now what would you look at when you open the bonnet of a car. A recent Engineering Graduate going to look at his first car asked me that.

My weird thing is that I have a thing about cheap tyres.
I look at the tyres and if they have brands I've never heard off, and different brands on the same axle, then I'm immediately not happy.
I assume that if the car has 4 different makes that the owner will be totally unsympathetic when it comes to ownership.

So I'm looking for the engine bay not to be too clean (suggests that it's been steam cleaned and that can cause issues with electronics, plus masks fluid leaks)
Then I'm looking for Fluid leaks, and levels of Oil, Coolant, brake fluid and power steering fluid. Then I'm looking at the condition of the oil. With a diesel not so easy as it goes black with in minutes, but get a bit between fingers and see if any particles, then take off the 710 cap and look for mayonaise.
Then look in coolant reservoir to make sure it looks clean. No rusty water and no mayonaise.
Start engine, listen for air and exhaust leaks, and any misfire or knocking.
Then onto test drive. Test the clutch. Put and brake on and try to pull away. The engine should bog down, if the clutch is working properly. It will slip if not.
Find a car park and put the car into full lock and listen for clonks from CV joints (both ways). Drive over bumpy roads and listen for clonks.
Take every wheel off and look at discs and pads and rubber boots and hoses, and look for accident repairs.
Finally get under the car and look at exhaust condition.
Then read the service history. Ideally with a private car you want to see the stamped up book and the actual bills. No excuse to not have kept bills for servicing.
I wouldn't pay the AA personally, but I'm a risk taker.

bigjl

spacey2012 wrote: »

With any second hand car, knowing the mileage things start to drop apart also helps.
Audis are usually good for 150k.
About twice what a vauxhall diesel is.

A little bit disengenious with that comment.

Since the most troublesome engine in Vauxhalls, Opels, Saabs, Alfas and Fiats is a Fiat engine.

And several old and new 1.7 Vauxhall diesels are fitted with reliable and long lived Isuzu diesel engines.

I would have more concern with buying a 7yr old Audi than a Vauxhall, Ford or similar.

The 2.00tdi engine in Audis has a habit of sump cracking for no apparent reason for example.

As far as the OP is concerned rear pads last a long time. Unless the rear brakes are used by the speed limiter and traction control systems such as powerful rwd car they may wear quickly. But usually they last 100k or so.

From Euro the pads are likely £20/40 and maybe £50 to fit at an independant.

Try to get them don2 as part of the deal or use it as a point for negotation of price.

And an AA inspection is a good idea for those without the skills and knowledge to check a car out properly.