Is all satin paint horrendous to apply or just Crown Non Drip? Losing the will here!!

cyclonebri1

JAS, forget so far and start again.

Non drip is by far the best for a newcomer to painting, I can't imagine your post if you had tried liquid gloss 1st, :D

The point is use the stuff straight from the can, don't over brush it, don't stir the paint and don't ever try to thin it.
Also, don't dig a hole in the centre of the can with the brush, pick paint up from the whole surface not just the middle.
Don't wipe the excess off on the edge of the can.

That said other than try another brand of paint, I can't help further other than to add that the single biggest issue I have with non drip is to find 1 that stays white and doesn't yellow after a few months.
I would have wholeheartedly recommended Wickes brand until recently, but that now does exactly as above.

PS I still favour solvent based rather than water based which may or may not explain the issue above.;)

JustAnotherSaver

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

JAS, forget so far and start again.

Done that tonight. Tried sanding the runs down but ended up sanding back to wood, which will then need undercoating i suppose so i thought sod this for a carry on - start a fresh & began stripping all the paint off again.

don't over brush it,

I don't know what constitutes as 'over brushing' but from the sounds of it, i've done it.

don't stir the paint and don't ever try to thin it.

Got it.

Also, don't dig a hole in the centre of the can with the brush, pick paint up from the whole surface not just the middle.

Oops. Point taken.

Don't wipe the excess off on the edge of the can.

Have been doing this also. Why not though?

That said other than try another brand of paint, I can't help further other than to add that the single biggest issue I have with non drip is to find 1 that stays white and doesn't yellow after a few months.
I would have wholeheartedly recommended Wickes brand until recently, but that now does exactly as above.

This one interests me most out of what you've said in that post...

We WOULD have glossed, except from all the reading up we've done on it, it now yellows after time (sometimes rapid it seems, sometimes not quite so). We've read this is because the make up of it is different since everything is going eco-friendly & all that (eco friendly being another term for taking something that works & then ballsing it up).
We wanted something quite durable that would stay white & from everything we've read over many different sites, Satin ticked that box.
Yet you're now telling me it doesn't.
I'm hoping i've not made a mistake.

PS I still favour solvent based rather than water based which may or may not explain the issue above.;)

The undercoat says clean with a propriety cleaner so i take this is solvent based.
The non drip says clean with cold water, so i'm taking it's water based.

cyclonebri1

JustAnotherSaver wrote: »

Have been doing this also. Why not though?
This one interests me most out of what you've said in that post...

We WOULD have glossed, except from all the reading up we've done on it, it now yellows after time (sometimes rapid it seems, sometimes not quite so). We've read this is because the make up of it is different since everything is going eco-friendly & all that (eco friendly being another term for taking something that works & then ballsing it up).
We wanted something quite durable that would stay white & from everything we've read over many different sites, Satin ticked that box.
Yet you're now telling me it doesn't.
I'm hoping i've not made a mistake.


The undercoat says clean with a propriety cleaner so i take this is solvent based.
The non drip says clean with cold water, so i'm taking it's water based.

Yes as regards the undercoat and top coat. Wiping the brush on the can thins the paint, it over works it and it makes it thinner. You then get thin paint in any hollows in the paint and then pick up both thick and thin paint.

And yes, all these issues started with the advent of eco friendly stuff a few years back, never been the same since, not that I'd want to see lead paint back again:D:D

JustAnotherSaver

Still, it's 2014 - we should have something on a par with surely.

Anyway, bit of an interesting one today...

As you can tell from the attached photo, that bit of ye olde wood is probably original 1932. It's also had some seriously sticky stuff on there in the form of that mustardy stuff. I wonder if this has played any role, even though i heat gunned it off & sanded it down well.

Reason i say is because the Mrs decided we were going to change the window sill from it's browny-reddy colour to white. She sanded it all back & primed it 1 coat.
I then went back the next day & primed it a second coat. Got to admit, it in white with the white uPVC window looked tidy. Not necessarily better but tidy.

Anyway, i hit it with that non drip satin today. It was like totally different paint. I didn't do anything really different but the paint flowed so well. It also didn't drag, didn't leave mini chunks, didn't leave pock marks when touching paint that had been on for a minute or two. I didn't use any more or less than i had on the other piece. It just flowed quite nicely & was quite easy to work with.

So on that note, i wonder if the type of wood & the stuff that's been on there/not been on there before is the cause? Something is different.

cyclonebri1

Well your present issue in mind, I'd say the problem was the paint.

I have tried and used most brands on the market, never had a single issue with any brand except Crown. No I don't know if that was a 1 off or if others have issues too, but I've not bought anything from Crown since.

roddydogs

Trouble with Eggshell & Satin is that it just dosent have any "Knokability" especially on skirting if youve got kids. If your worried about white yellowing, use an off white/cream colour instead. If you dont like the high gloss you can always take the gloss down a bit with fine glasspaper.

sillysid

having recently had the same problem - tho not with crown satin - just clumps, paint not spreading properly, etc...I discovered my error - after sanding I washed everything down with flash - and began painting, then after encountering a similar disaster effect to you, and hours scraping the paint back off - I read the back of tin, wipe down sanded surfaces with white spirit - doh...the amount of sawdust that came off was remarkable, even tho I'd cleaned - after doing what it said on tin, the paint went on no bother...

cyclonebri1

Please don't think I'm rubbishing the last 2 posters, but, you simply don't/don't have to sand after painting.

I've also never washed any paint down with spirits or turps, Flash/soap/fairy liquid? it all works fine.

JustAnotherSaver

I've always given a light sanding & then washing off as that's how i was taught when i started painting bits for the car. It always served me fine although i never used anything fancy. Just soapy water & a good drying. I've been using sugar soap on this because we had some.


Anyway, here's a question about number of coats...

* I should point out that if you take life too seriously then you should probably not bother reading on. If you think picking your nose is vulgar then don't bother reading on. If you're not soft & overly sensitive then go ahead...



I was on the toilet today at work (told you not to bother if you're overly sensitive) & i got thinking. 1 sheet is suicide. 2 sheets is probably do-able although risky but best to go with 3 sheets for guaranteed protection.
Which (welcome to my mind!) got me thinking about coats of paint. Everything i've read & been told has been 2 layers. The first one gets a bit of a spread & the second evens everything out.

I just wonder ....... why 2 coats? Why not 3, or 4, or 5 etc? I know we could get silly & say why not 100, so let's keep it sensible & stick to why not 3? Would it offer any extra benefit or no?

Just the random wonderings of a toilet visit

DaftyDuck

Some reading for your next visit to the bog...

10 Downing St door