Real wood vs Karndean flooring

suestew

Hi all, I really wanted real wood flooring in our new home but builder today has recommended Karndean which I was unaware of. I have to say from what I have viewed online it does look nice but does it look like real wood or can you tell it's vinyl? A few people have said it's pretty expensive but would it not be cheaper than real wood?


Any opinions welcome :-)

leocan

Some builders want an easy life which is understandable. A wooden floor presents the possibility of expansion and contraction as the wood is a living organism, therefore floor preparation is important. A wood floor should be installed on 3/4 inch batons away from the subfloor to reduce the likelihood of the floor taking on moisture. The floor height is a consideration, especially at doorways and thresholds. Other considerations such as removal of skirting and architrave need to be considered when fitting real wood depending on if new build or floor replacement. The Karndean vinyl strips are easily fitted both on new and existing floor (although surface area needs to be smooth) without the same requirement to remove skirting, architrave and less wastage involved. The main advantage for the builder is that they may not have to worry about revisiting the job due to concerns that might present itself using real wood.
To summarise if you want wood floor, Karndean is not fit for purpose.
If you decide that Karndean is your preferred option consider comparing it with Amtico there both vinyl
If budget is a consideration Karndean is probably your best option but aesthetically theres no comparison between real wood and vinyl. The wood floor also has the advantage of been sanded and sealed over its life time with better insulation properties.
Hope this helps and good luck with whatever you decide (not your builder)

suestew

Thanks very much. You are right in that he is looking at it from a height point of view and work involved, although he would not actually do the job himself. We have ripped everything out so skirting has already been moved.


Our flooring downstairs is concrete at present and upstairs has wooden flooring but not sure that can be renovated.


How much height is likely to be added to have real wood or does it vary?

Errata

Do you mean real wood - as in floorboards- or engineered wood which is a veneer?

suestew

real wood not vaneer

phoebe1989seb

We were advised by a flooring specialist to use engineered wood in our (old, stone) house because of damp issues although our original intention was to choose solid wood. I've done a bit of research and some solid wood is actually less expensive than engineered so it's quite confusing

We have used Karndean in bathrooms and kitchens previously and whilst it's excellent in these locations, I personally wouldn't want it in my reception rooms......

suestew

phoebe1989seb wrote: »

We were advised by a flooring specialist to use engineered wood in our (old, stone) house because of damp issues although our original intention was to choose solid wood. I've done a bit of research and some solid wood is actually less expensive than engineered so it's quite confusing

We have used Karndean in bathrooms and kitchens previously and whilst it's excellent in these locations, I personally wouldn't want it in my reception rooms......

It is confusing, there is so much choice & colours. I am starting to think that I may only use it for bathroom and possibly kitchen. I think as long as you use a damp proof membrane on stone floors then it stops damp but our builder is trying to sway us against this most probably due to work involved.

ritesh

We had engineered wood flooring installed on the ground floor (floating floor) when we renovated our house. The subfloor is concrete and were advised that this would be the best option. The oak layer is 4mm thick so can be sanded down and relaquered when the time comes. So taking that the floor will last at least a minimum of eight years and you can sand down 1mm each time you are looking at least 32 years of life from the flooring.

In terms of laying the floor it is a little bit more effort but I am glad I chose this type of flooring as it looks and feels great.

If you want wood flooring then I would definitely recommend. The key thing is to ensure you have a good barrier and layer of insulation between the wood floor and concrete sub floor.

phoebe1989seb

suestew wrote: »

It is confusing, there is so much choice & colours. I am starting to think that I may only use it for bathroom and possibly kitchen. I think as long as you use a damp proof membrane on stone floors then it stops damp but our builder is trying to sway us against this most probably due to work involved.

Gosh yes, don't even get me started on colour choice We have sooooo many samples we could probably cover a small room (a loo maybe) with them, lol! The more I look into it, the more confused I seem to become.

Our walls are stone, but the rooms where we want to lay the wood flooring have mainly concrete floors - some laid by the PO (and currently bare), some in a 1980s extension built by the owner before that. One room has modern-ish quarry tiles laid on concrete. We do have some damp issues which we are attempting to resolve so think good quality engineered with a thick layer of solid oak to allow for multiple sandings is probably the way for us to go.......

GL with your decision

suestew

I did actually visit a show room today with the karndean flooring, and although I do think it looks lovely, viewing it whilst standing on it you can really tell it's vinyl, there is like a ripple affect, if that makes sense?


I have now been swayed to engineered wood I really do think this is the way forward, so thanks all of helping me make up my mind :-)

artichoke

If cost is an issue have you looked at buying solid oak floor boards direct from a wood yard?

We bought ours direct from the saw mill and paid less that £28 sq m so cheaper than many laminates...

art