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Oh Dear Mot Failure 8-( Mazda 323f
Comments
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Nobody's yet asked what you want to do about _this_ particular car.
Are you emotionally involved with it on some level, and want to keep it indefinitely?
Or are you running it into the ground as a cheap shed?
They really are the only options in front of you at the mo, honestly.
If you want to keep it indefinitely, then you've got a very large bill ahead of you to get the shell stripped down far enough to allow all the rotten areas to be properly cut out and repaired. I doubt there's much available in the way of repair sections or new panels, so you're after a skilled fabricator. Budget for a couple of grand, including proper wax protection of everywhere. If the work's done properly and finished properly, rather than just tacked and splodged with underseal, then there's no reason why it won't be just as strong and long-lasting as the original metal - if not more so.
If, otoh, it's being run into the ground, then you've got a smaller decision. Scrap it this year, or patch it up then scrap it next year when all the patches fall off because the metal they were welded to has dissolved, too.
If it's really going to be a couple of ton to get patched, and it's mechanically sound, then I think I'd patch it and hack it through the winter, then take your time about sourcing a replacement, rather than have to make a distress purchase now.
EdGasket clearly had me in mind when he went on about the "politically correct" - but I'm sure the Ts & Cs around posting here prevent me fully describing my opinions of his suggestion. Let's just say that for it to have failed, both the brake pipe and structure must already be "excessively weakened" "seriously affecting the strength", in important areas. It is subjective, yes, but only in the opinion of a trained and experienced tester. If you get it up on axle stands or a ramp - or even one side up on a tall kerb - and get underneath with a torch, you'll see what they're referring to. (Do testers still use yellow chalk to flag the rot?)
I suspect you'll be somewhat surprised at what you've been driving around in...0 -
EdGasket clearly had me in mind when he went on about the "politically correct" - but I'm sure the Ts & Cs around posting here prevent me fully describing my opinions of his suggestion.
Ed's been reading the AA Book of The Car again
http://dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/index.php/page/34.html
If you like the car and it's mechanically sound then there's no real reason not to have that amount of welding done or, in true MSE style, learning to do it yourself. You'd be depressed if you realised how poor welding can be and still pass an MOT.
Years ago I had a Renault 14 that proudly wore a Dexion badge on its boot, which I'd removed from the shelving used to replace large parts of its structure. She also had an aftermarket sunroof "borrowed" from a scrap Cavalier after I got bored one day and decided I wanted to cut a hole in her roof, and "She cannae take much more, Captain" lovingly painted in gold script across her taigate.
On her first MOT after I was given her and put her in to see "how bad" the tester marked the "dangerous" box and refused to brake test because of the risk of the o/s/r suspension detatching itself. He laughed as I said "see you for the retest" but didn't when I was back 8 days later with 2 feet of the inner sill / box section rebuilt and passed
By the time I got rid, about 6 years later, she had patches on the patches on the patches but the driver's sill was still sound. In the end I just couldn't get a replacement rear silencer to fit when the "road closed" sign I'd welded round the original finally burnt through (it was an odd layout on them) so she had to go
Ahh, those were the days
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Surely it's worth throwing £150 at it for for 12 months motoring, you won't replace it for that.
Next year is another story, but i'd go one more year with it - On saying that £150 does sound a very keen price.0 -
Can you afford to buy another car?
What will your Mazda fetch in part exchange? - ask around.
You only have 3 choices here: scrap it, have it repaired, or trade it in.
Whatever you do, if you decide upon a repair, get a written quote for the job.I think this job really needs
a much bigger hammer.
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TBH
There are times when you should repair and there are times you should get rid.
This sounds like a get rid time....Based on age and condition of the car.
What is the current mileage on the car???0 -
Unfortunately the MOT guy has set you off on the wrong foot. If you had taken it to a local repairer and he had told you that amount of welding plus other repair work would be, say a realistic £400, probably wouldn't have been a question in your mind. Put it on ebay for a few days and if no decent offers, scrap it.0
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salubrious wrote: »Surely it's worth throwing £150 at it for for 12 months motoring, you won't replace it for that.
Next year is another story, but i'd go one more year with it - On saying that £150 does sound a very keen price.
It wasnt a quote - it was an guesstimate. The guy wasnt offering to do the work for that.
You could easily spend double that or more by the sounds of it, plus as others have said once you start welding, more holes appear and you ending up welding on plates to weld plates on to. PLUS no doubt some of those will be in awkward places or need other internal or external parts stripped to get at.
Welding is neither cheap nor fun.0 -
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Even if it costs twice that, if its mechanically sound then id say keep it. Only you know how the car runs, what the clutch feels like, and other potential issues going forward so only you can really make a judgement call.0
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"Ed's been reading the AA Book of The Car again
"
Yep, they make a lovely job of that sill don't they? Cars rusted a lot more in those days but people still drove them. More than once in bygone days I've looked at the road passing by through holes in the floor!0
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