joining Oak block worktop, methods help please

happyhero

Hi I am fairly good at carpentry as a hobby and my friend is insisting I help them fit their worktop which is easy enough for me except for the join. I have told him that there are different methods but I don't think I can tackle the method with a jig nor do I have a jig and I think the cheap metal strip method does not give a very professional job.

I think he will get one of those Oak block worktops that they do at Ikea. It will have to go round 2 walls i.e. a 90 degree corner and obviously the corner may be out slightly.

Can you just butt these types of worktops up together once you are satisfied they meet properly?

I am thinking maybe I can plane the end edge to cope with any errors in the 90 degree corner, is that a possibility?

I have read all sorts about joining these worktops that they put in clamps but don't tighten them too much so that the wood can move etc so could I just butt them up and maybe fit clamps without getting involved with the jig/router method or would that be no good?

Any advice or help appreciated.

StuC75

Far easier to find someone willing and suitable skilled to do the Jig based join,, it will look far better than a butt or strip connection..

When I fitter my last kitchen with my uncle that's a retired Joiner (now retired - well until I start my new kitchen since moved).. We assembled and fitted all the units then got someone in skilled to fit the worktop exactly as needed using the jig.. It certainly cost less than the price of buying a new worktop if it messed up...

Afterall would you be happy to fit it for the friend and it turn out 'just wrong'... as in getting the join, and the 90degree corner which may not be quite square at the wall..

DirectDebacle

Have a read through this guide.

I would go for a butt joint as opposed to a mitre.

Make sure the w/tops have been 'acclimatised' in the room they are to be fitted. Seal all cut edges and apply finish (oil or whatever is preferred) to both sides of the w/top before final fitting.

-taff

If he's buying oak block from ikea, they are chamfered on the edges so any join is going to have a channel in the middle.
Mine was cut to fit the wonky corner, and then joined with silicone, which squeezed up into the channel. I've since scraped it out because i can live with a channel that collects every bit of seed from seeded bread
Also, don't be fooled by the block, it's hard work to cut, and you might find that the corner will throw out the units positions, so that one on one set of units, the worktop isn't deep enough to overhang the units, necessitating adding a small edge piece [hopefully tot eh back of the worktop] and dowels....

Steve_the_fitter

if he could get worktops with a square edge (not ikea) butt joining them is the way to go. If he has already purchased them and there is enough worktop you could cut them at 45 degrees. This is basically a butt join so no jig but you will keep the curved profile on the front edge of the worktop.

DaftyDuck

A jig cut would look best and, well-bolted, would be strongest. There's a reason it's the preferred way. A jig can be hired, or bought (Screwfix is cheap). I learnt to do them passibly.... but I'd get a man who can in for that bit in future.
Ikea worktop is, indeed, bevelled on the edge, and a simple butt joint will have that at the join.

phill99

2 Oak worktops will probably cost £300 - £400. You're friend wipont thank you for making a pigs ear of them. They need proper masons mitres with worktop bolts. Otherwise they will always look like a bodge. If you are not sure how to do it, then don't. Get someone in who can do it properly.

-taff

Ikea oak block worktop is £90

phill99

-taff wrote: »

Ikea oak block worktop is £90

The price is almost academic. Badly fitted they will look like a dogs dinner.

DaftyDuck

phill99 wrote: »

The price is almost academic. Badly fitted they will look like a dogs dinner.

Correct.... and one of mine (cheapy Ikea as well) does look like the proverbial - maybe even a dog's dinner post-digestion! The others are better (improved with practice, and it is in a scruffy utility room and a garage), but that's why I said I'd get in a man who can, even if only for that bit.

I completely agree with phill99: help a mate, and he's grateful, but help a mate and !!!! it up, and he'll glower at you and the worktop ever more.

The worktop join is always visible, will go manky if not well-finished, and can be done by a bloke with the right skills and equipment for not-too-much money.

cyclonebri1

I've done these only once, they came out great.

Buy a jig, £20 to £30 quid from ebay.

Buy a router set specific to cutting worktops. £10 from ebay.

Ok you need a router, anyone proficient at woodwork will have 1.

"adjust" the angle of mitre to suit the out of square.

Sell the jig when finished for £12 on ebay.

This bit is how it panned out for me;

Bought jig from ebay, £25.

Guy contacted to say he had 1 good 1 and a marked 1, I could have the damaged 1 for £15 or both for £30. I bought both.

Advertised 1 after doing the job, guy bought it, a week later hadn't paid, second guy rings and wants to collect same day so sold.
Original guy pays at same time.

So bottom line is that I used the jig, (they were Silverline and perfectly adequate), then sold both as I think it was the 1st and only time I will do this job.

Paid £25, used the cosmetically damaged 1 for 2 joints and then sold both for a total of £40.

Beat that for money saving.

As an aside, the routers will only last for a couple of joints in dense chipboard worktops, given the op's are natural wood without the abrasive adhesive and rubbish contained in chipboard, they should still be perfect after using with butchers block.