Keeping old boiler and adding new pump

plumb1_2

rust-colored water is a sign of corrosion.

southcoastrgi

yes as plumb says above that is a sign of corrosion

however before you dive into spending loads of money, i would do some calcs on what heat output your rooms need, turn the pump speed upto 3 if it isn't already, powerflushing may sort out the prob but it could also give you more probs on an old system ie leaking rads & you may be no better off, some more pics of the pipework above & below the pump may help (they don't need to be close up's be interesting to see how it's all connected)

keystone

plumb1 wrote: »

By the look of that pump, you have rusty water in your system. So get it cleaned before anything else.

There you go. Cleaned the pump as instructed:



Next?

Sorry - couldn't resist.

I'll get me coat then shall I?

Oh and I agree with Sc about more pics.

Cheers

camills

The pump is on 2, not on 3 at the moment.

ValHaller

camills wrote: »

The pump is on 2, not on 3 at the moment.

Definitely try the pump on 3 before powerflush, change radiators, fit a combi.

And do the calcs next to see if the rads are adequate for the rooms. Personally, I would not powerflush a system with radiators I was not sure I was going to keep, although there could be debate about when to do it if you are changing rads.

Also not mentioned is whether the pipework is adequate for the rads - although this is not likely to affect all rads. And as plumb1 suggests, are the rads getting hot? and also not mentioned, is the system balanced correctly?

camills

So, I paid much attention to the radiators in the house last night and can confirm that they get hot overall (not just top or just bottom).
We had previously bled them.

A couple of other question please, if I may...

What exactly is the new pump going to do for the heating?

And what does the speed of pump do? Does it make the rads hotter quicker (ie. why move to 3)?

Thank you guys....

diywhynot

Make and model of boiler? You could find someone here or here.

camills

Hi guys,

So a bit more info...I have done the calculations on the boilers.org.uk website and our house requires a boiler output of 7.3 (Heat Loss 5.3; Water Heating 2).

We live in a 3bed semi house and have 7 radiators (all double panel non convectors).

Our boiler is an IDEAL W RS460 by Sterald Group.
The table attached to the boiler says:

Manifold Pressure min 9.3 (3.7)
mb. (in wg) max 14.5 (5.8)

Heat Output min 13.2 (45000)
KW (Btu/h) max 14.5 (5.8)

Heat Input min 18.3 (62300)
KW (Btu/h) max 23.0 (78400)


Here is a picture of the beast..

ValHaller

There might be all kinds of reasons to change that boiler. But fundamentally, if it is working, it is adequate. When the boiler runs is it switching on and off frequently? And as for the rads, are they nearly as hot at the cold end as at the hot after the system has been running a while?

Your next port of call calcs wise is to establish if each rad is adequate for its room. And are they positioned correctly near to the windows rather than away from them?

camills

Thank you so much for helping...

ValHaller wrote: »

When the boiler runs is it switching on and off frequently?

No, it works fine with no glitches. It turns on when it is supposed to and off when it I turn it off.


All the rads are positioned under the windows and they pretty much run the entire length of each window. The exception is the one in the hallway which is opposite the front door (this is a 1200 x 600 radiator).

Need to double check about the heat after running the system tonight.