Help in understanding recommended repairs for car

OddballJamie

AdrianC wrote: »

Indeed. But that doesn't mean the fluid's great.

Dry, new fluid has a boil point of 230degC.
"Wet" fluid, with 3.5% water, has a boil point down to 160degC.

So, a boil point of 198degC sounds about right for 2% water. That 2% water not only reduces the boil point, increasing the risk of the fluid boiling and leaving no brakes in the event of prolonged heavy use (the steam formed in the lines is compressible, unlike liquid), but increases corrosion in the calipers and wheel cylinders. I don't think there's an easy calculation for time versus moisture content, but it's safe to say that that fluid is probably long overdue for replacement. It's not a big job. It's short-termist corner-cutting not to.

As I said earlier, the price quoted is another issue.

I'm not actually saying it's OK, the machine for less than 2% on the scale is OK. Any higher is bad.

londonTiger

they're trying to "improve" the car to factory new standard or something it seems.

Just do cambelt and brakes. Should be able to get cambelt doen £350 inc vat at an indy and brakes I don't know. For a small car I reckon pads and discs should be very cheap. Labour will bit a bit expensive I don't think it should go more than £250inc vat.

Some people would say cambelts failing on time are just factories way of covering their backs. Some people never change cambelts and go on the factory cambelt for years and years. I tend to agree with that but I use my car for important business meetings and I can't afford to break down so I changed them.

yes rubber gets brittle over time. But people have used cambelts and tyres for years and years. Some classic cars use very old tyres that have lasted decades without any problems.

OddballJamie

londonTiger wrote: »

they're trying to "improve" the car to factory new standard or something it seems.

Just do cambelt and brakes. Should be able to get cambelt doen £350 inc vat at an indy and brakes I don't know. For a small car I reckon pads and discs should be very cheap. Labour will bit a bit expensive I don't think it should go more than £250inc vat.

Some people would say cambelts failing on time are just factories way of covering their backs. Some people never change cambelts and go on the factory cambelt for years and years. I tend to agree with that but I use my car for important business meetings and I can't afford to break down so I changed them.

yes rubber gets brittle over time. But people have used cambelts and tyres for years and years. Some classic cars use very old tyres that have lasted decades without any problems.

If I remember correctly, your cam belt was two years overdue before you bothered to get it done.

AdrianC

londonTiger wrote: »

yes rubber gets brittle over time. But people have used cambelts and tyres for years and years. Some classic cars use very old tyres that have lasted decades without any problems.

And others have been killed when old tyres have broken up.

Tyres not only lose a lot of grip as they age and harden, but they can and do fail without warning. General advice is to bin any tyres over about a decade old - every tyre made since the '80s has a manufacturing date code on it.

londonTiger

OddballJamie wrote: »

If I remember correctly, your cam belt was two years overdue before you bothered to get it done.

Yes and the belt looked absolutely fine. All the other parts looked fine too.

I only got it changed because I had a 320 mile round trip that weekend and it was work related and was part of a big contract, otherwise I would have probably left it alone.

londonTiger

AdrianC wrote: »

And others have been killed when old tyres have broken up.

Tyres not only lose a lot of grip as they age and harden, but they can and do fail without warning. General advice is to bin any tyres over about a decade old - every tyre made since the '80s has a manufacturing date code on it.

Well the tyre industry was pushing for the german rule of expiring tyres after 6 years. So your decade rule is probably incorrect if you're going to play it safe

red_eye

mouche wrote: »

Our 11 year old car (36,500 miles) was serviced yesterday and we have been given a list of critical repairs costing £2,500. We are trying to decide whether we should get it repaired or buy a new one. We don't really have the money for either option so would appreciate feedback on the repairs list from people who understand cars. Which of them are really critical? Which of them must be fixed or it will be dangerous to drive? We travel with our toddler so safety is always top of the list.
I
Here is a list of repairs and costs. Would really appreciate your opinions:

1. Front and rear wipers smeary - £38.28
2. Transmission n/s driveshaft oil seal weeping - £181.08
3. Transmission clutch bite high may possibly be slipping when hot and under load; advise new clutch and slave; this could be customer complaint of sluggish car - £679.20
4. A/c service - £68.40
5. Belts & levels - cambelt overdue no record of change in svc book; must replace - £445.94
6. Engine - advise change aux belt with cam belt - £52.48
7. Engine - reqs id code read for eml on intermittently - £57
8. Engine - core plugs in cylinder head rusty may start leaking soon - £276.30
9. Engine - fuel filter advise replace - £48.62
10. Brake fluid - Sp Dot 4 - 198C>Less than 2% green - £75.12
11. Coolant - Advise water pump change with cambelt - £187.61
12. Brakes visual - Front pad 4mm remaining - £130.63
13. Brakes visual - Front discs at 20mm min req 20mm - £196.20
14. Brakes visual - rear clean and adjust as high handbrake travel - £63.30

fornsuch a big bill I would be asking them to show me the defects. if I were you I would take that bit of paper to an independent to see if the work really needs doing, find one by googling ata aceditation

red_eye

Joe_Horner wrote: »

You don't change core plugs just cos they look a little rusty for instance, not do you change brake pads that still have a fifth of their life left (assuming typical 12mm new thickness and changing at 2mm for safety). Quite how they gauged 20mm disk thickness left by a visual check would be interesting to know as well!

easy, when you see 20mm day in day out you and guess reasonably accurately


Bottom line, find another garage!

i agree

OddballJamie

red_eye wrote: »

Joe_Horner wrote: »

You don't change core plugs just cos they look a little rusty for instance, not do you change brake pads that still have a fifth of their life left (assuming typical 12mm new thickness and changing at 2mm for safety). Quite how they gauged 20mm disk thickness left by a visual check would be interesting to know as well!

easy, when you see 20mm day in day out you and guess reasonably accurately


Bottom line, find another garage!

i agree

They use one of these

Moto2

A standard vernier is a bit of a pain given that the outer edge of the disc doesn't usually wear, you need to use spacers either side and deduct their thickness, very fiddly at times.
One guy I know has a nut glued on each leg of the gauge