No hot water, CH brilliant, BG says powerflush?

confusedleo

thanks for replies and sorry for the delay in responding. I shall be put some pictures up tonight. Had a few new breakdowns to deal with this week (fridge and wash machine)


It is a 3 way valve and the "feed in" is hot, "feed out" is cold. the valve makes a low noise when I put the water on. Now we get no hot water(or "very lukewarm") regardless of weather heating is on.


The area manager called, £825 for a powerflush and magna. Dad has 7 radiators, if we get a new boiler its £560. Says powerflush is for heating and hot water though paperwork says for heating. he sais "unfortunately your blockage is on the hot water side, not heating side and in your cylinder!" Even if we flush not doing the magna its an extra. It is blackmail because they weren't accept a flush from a 3rd party.

Andy_WSM

I still think the power flush is a nonsense.

More convinced than before that the 3 way valve is sticking. Seems so unlikely you'd have a blockage in the coil of the tank. Very very unlikely IMO.

Is there a lever on the 3 port valve that you can move manually (should be) to prove whether it's the motor failed or the valve jammed.

keystone

confusedleo wrote: »

thanks for replies and sorry for the delay in responding. I shall be put some pictures up tonight.

OK brilliant.

It is a 3 way valve and the "feed in" is hot, "feed out" is cold. the valve makes a low noise when I put the water on. Now we get no hot water(or "very lukewarm") regardless of weather heating is on.

Valve stuck. The humming noise indicates that the head is trying to move the valve but failing so don't do that any more because you'll burn the synchro motor out. Operate the spindle on the top of the valve using an adjustable spanner once the head is off. One side of the spindle will be flat. Don't use pliers unless you want to nerf the spindle. Move it back and forth a bit to try and free it up. If you can get it moving freely then operate the roomstat to make the heating fire up. Turn the valve spindle so that the output from the CH port gets hot just to check your heatring is functioniung OK. Turn heating off and do the same with the tankstat turning the spindle once again so that the DHW port gets hot. The coil should then start to heat up and you'll be able to tell because the return pipe from the cylinder back to the boiler will also get hot. If it does then theres nothing immediately wrong with the coil. All the time you are doing this you should hear the head motor driving about to attempt to move the valve. If it does so then the head should be OK.

If you can't get it free then its a new valve body.

I'm assuming the pump is operating properly?

The area manager called, £825 for a powerflush and magna. Dad has 7 radiators, if we get a new boiler its £560. Says powerflush is for heating and hot water though paperwork says for heating. he sais "unfortunately your blockage is on the hot water side, not heating side and in your cylinder!" Even if we flush not doing the magna its an extra. It is blackmail because they weren't accept a flush from a 3rd party.

Rowlocks. The powerflush (unecessary in my view atm) will do both the CH and the primary circuit which services the DHW whether the heating is on or not. It's not possible not to. Don't install a magnaclean (or similar) on a dirty system. It will do nothing for you. They are designed to keep a clean system clean not clean up a dirty one.

Cheers

Poppy9

I have BG homecare and have done for years. As I have an old system and boiler I would expect them to be awkward but they have done each repair and never mentioned to date a powerflush.

I know we have had a new pump, motorised valve, hot water cylinder plus a couple of radiator valves replaced by them. The hot water cylinder replacement turned into an all day job as the engineer fitted the wrong one. His manager wasn't best pleased as it had a huge sticker on it saying either "direct or indirect feed"!!

They haven't quibbled with us. Only issue we have is that our vent in room with boiler is not of current regulation standard.

ollski

why not test the valve?, when the ch and hw have been off overnight turn on the hot water only. If your rads heat up then your valve is siezed.

confusedleo

okay as a new user im not allowed to post pictures/ links. Ive set up a photobucket account for this. I'll see if admin can help...!!

Our valve (oblong silver box) sits on top of a pipe. It is labelled Honeywell on top. On the far end to me at the bottom is a switch/ stick which I can feel but not see.

There is a pump (black round devise) stating multihead III on top and has a dial fixed at III.

I put descriptions in brackets in case I got them the wrong round.

confusedleo

I may be able to pm them if anyone is interested

keystone

http://s919.photobucket.com/user/confusedleo/media/DSCF3063_zps76bbf4fa.jpg.html

http://s919.photobucket.com/user/confusedleo/media/DSCF3065_zps7321fc05.jpg.html?sort=3&o=6

Am not entirely convinced that thats a three port valve as can't see the pipework that is underneath it but if it is then the pump is feeding into the wrong port.

Some thought needed about that layout but don't have time right now. Later.

Cheers

ollski

It looks like it goes to a dip tube which is a 15mm u shaped heating element. Horrible things which block up for fun. I would insist that the isolation valve is changed before you make any sort of decision on a flush.

southcoastrgi

crap pump
pump is installed upright (wrong position) meaning it's prob burnt out
bypass is fully open

just three things i can see from those pics