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Fill gap between bookcase and wall
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modelreject
Posts: 703 Forumite


Hi,
I have assembled a bookcase and moved it against the wall. The issue is that the wall has a curve so there are gaps at the top ant the bottom. What is the best material to fill this with. I have white wood filler from another job I did but does this need to be flexible, like a flexible caulk, if such a thing exists. (link to image below)
https://www.evernote.com/shard/s25/sh/8f190b00-68e6-4712-a237-efee9611eb4f/e95dab9f019b8efc6a841ab8ad91ab46
Thanks for any advice.
I would like the solution to last, so quick fixes aren't a solution :-)
C
I have assembled a bookcase and moved it against the wall. The issue is that the wall has a curve so there are gaps at the top ant the bottom. What is the best material to fill this with. I have white wood filler from another job I did but does this need to be flexible, like a flexible caulk, if such a thing exists. (link to image below)
https://www.evernote.com/shard/s25/sh/8f190b00-68e6-4712-a237-efee9611eb4f/e95dab9f019b8efc6a841ab8ad91ab46
Thanks for any advice.
I would like the solution to last, so quick fixes aren't a solution :-)
C
0
Comments
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Wood filler will not work in this situation.
Flexible caulk might depending on how wide the gap is at it's widest.
Personally I'd be using thin beading to hide the gap.Herman - MP for all!0 -
Thanks. The widest gap is 1cm. What about this stuff? http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=110&storeId=10151&partNumber=1036970
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I'd go for beading too. It's a non-shrinking, non-fiddly solution
If you fill in the gaps it will eventually crack or come away from the wall [ it has on my doorframes - decorators filler] if the bookcase ever gets knocked hard enough.
Or extend the shelves to the frame and you won't see a gap....Non me fac calcitrare tuum culi0 -
What happens when you or someone else re-arrange the furniture or want to redecorate? Will you paint around it?0
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I was thinking, would it be possible to add the flexible caulk to the book case before moving against the wall and cutting off any excess depending on the curvature of the wall? ie the flexible caulk would get squashed into place as I push the bookcase against the wall. That way the caulk would adhere to the wall but would still fill the gaps. (a bit like the way rubber draft exclusion strips work)0
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If I had to fill something like that, I'd use silicone rather than caulk because it definitely won't shrink but you've only got one chance to get it right.
beading beading beading....Non me fac calcitrare tuum culi0 -
modelreject wrote: »I was thinking, would it be possible to add the flexible caulk to the book case before moving against the wall and cutting off any excess depending on the curvature of the wall? ie the flexible caulk would get squashed into place as I push the bookcase against the wall. That way the caulk would adhere to the wall but would still fill the gaps. (a bit like the way rubber draft exclusion strips work)
Why are you so focused on using caulk?
You wont be able to lay a 10mm bead on the bookcase without it sagging so your plan (imo) wont work.
Honestly, it's not the best solution.Herman - MP for all!0 -
I was actually thinking of laying the bookcase on it's front to apply the silicone/flexible caulk as they aren't attached to the wall yet. That would easily allow 1cm of it to accumulate but beading it is then. Thanks for all the advice and not allowing me to b*lls this one up.0
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Personally I wouldn't care about the gap.
I have a built in wardrobe in the small room, made by nailing wood planks to the walls and ceiling, to create the front frame, with doors attached. The edges are finished with this stuff.
http://www.diy.com/nav/build/joinery/mouldings/quadrant/Richard-Burbidge-Quadrant-Moulding-FB950-Pine-L-900-x-W-10-x-T-10mm-9275080?skuId=9284780
I replaced the original quadrants, it's not hard to do. Just nail them on with thin nails with narrow heads, then finish with a nail punch, and fill the small holes above the nail head with two part filler and sand.If I had to fill something like that, I'd use silicone rather than caulk because it definitely won't shrink but you've only got one chance to get it right.
beading beading beading....
Yes, caulk shrinks, as does wood. Filling such a wide gap with silicone will be very hard, I had to fill a 5mm gap between a window frame and a window board and it was hard, as smoothing the silicone pushed it in. And it does not look so good if you look close. My guess is the bookcase would look naff.Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0 -
You can fit a bead the the wall, any bead of your choice (quadrant etc) either white laminated or timber painted. Glue and pin it , with something like sticks-like Sh*t or gripfill, loads of panel adhesive about.0
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