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Underfloor heating installed on a suspended timber floor
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Even with a 50-60cm void you can still take out the whole of the floor then back fill the under floor void with suitable recycled aggregate, such as crushed bricks. This base is then used as a base for the new damp-proof membrane and new concrete floor housing the UFH.
If your builder isn't suggesting this I'd be asking him why.
not something i'd be suggestingI'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.
You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.0 -
Thanks everyone for their suggestions.
Re: concrete floor, we have decided against it as it is rather costly and we may in the future consider a basement conversion.
We are now pretty much agreed that for our situation, we would need to have the UFH above the joists (rather than between the joists), so that we can finish off with the engineered wood on top.
We were searching the Internet for more UFH solutions and came across PolyPipe Overlay, does anyone have any experience with this product? The good thing about this is that the pipes are 14mm rather than 10mm of the Nu-heat product.0 -
I'm not sure you understand the Nu-heat product, this is designed to go over the top of your existing floorboards, then your new floor goes on top, the bigger the pipes the higher the floor level will becomeI'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.
You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.0 -
Well, it seems that we will need to raise the floor level anyway - now we just need to make sure we choose the right UFH product. Nu-Heat is 15mm high, PolyPipe is18mm, so the difference is 3mm. But Nu-Heat has a 10mm pipe and the PolyPipe comes with a 14mm pipe. Wouldn't it better to go for the bigger pipe in this case, notwithstanding the 3mm increase in floor level? I'm thinking the 10mm pipe might block more easily due to sludge. Also, the 14mm pipe will hold more water so it will have a bigger thermal mass. What are people's opinions on this?0
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Well, it seems that we will need to raise the floor level anyway - now we just need to make sure we choose the right UFH product. Nu-Heat is 15mm high, PolyPipe is18mm, so the difference is 3mm. But Nu-Heat has a 10mm pipe and the PolyPipe comes with a 14mm pipe. Wouldn't it better to go for the bigger pipe in this case, notwithstanding the 3mm increase in floor level? I'm thinking the 10mm pipe might block more easily due to sludge. Also, the 14mm pipe will hold more water so it will have a bigger thermal mass. What are people's opinions on this?
I was looking at those systems - I think they are 12mm pipes.0 -
Have you had a look at the carbon film underfloor heating systems?
Like this one: http://www.floorheatingsystems.co.uk/underfloor-heating/laminate-underfloor-heating.htm
The height increase is negligible if you don't count the insulating underlay.0 -
@ Marcus - You're right - the pipes are actually only 12mm, so then it shouldn't make too much difference when compared to the 10mm ones.
@ Mymedi - thanks, but I was after a wet underfloor heating system, not an electric one, due to the large area that it needs to go under.0 -
Hi Audrey,
Im facing the same decision right now - nu-heat LoPro10™ versus polypipe overlay and I'm wondering which one you went for and why
it will be of great help to me
Many thanks0 -
Try googling 'Wundafloor' competitive prices and well made kit. Fitting their overboard system on the first floor of our house.0
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Hi guys,
I'm planning the same
Here are the quoted costs for a 35m2 setup with 2 zones including vat. These are for the best systems quoted with all the upgraded items
Nuheat 15mm £2600
John guest 25mm £1800
Polypipe 18mm £1700
Wundafloor 20mm £1850 (corrected £1500 was excl VAT)
I plan on going wunda floor as they claim to have good support. Whereas with polypipe, I see them on trade stores, but no support in the background.
I don't know if anyone has used wunda overlays before, and can advise if they are good, for such a low price?0
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