Refurbishing Pine Farmhouse Table

Simon_G_2

I have a pine farmhouse table that is currently painted all white, and I'm wanting to refurbish this by sanding the table top down to expose the bare wood and grain etc. I'm also wanting to make sure it's protected against heat from plates and dishes and the odd spill of water or wine, whilst also having a soft sheen/lustre and highlighting the grain. The problem is I've become a bit lost amongst the many choices of finishes.

So far I've tested two samples of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil on a piece of scrap wood, but I've also been looking at Colron Refined Wood Dye, that from what I've learnt would need to be protected with a clear lacquer and Colron Refined Danish Oil.

I wondered which of these three would be best suited to what I'm looking to achieve, or if anyone had any other suggestions or recommendations?

Thanks for any help.

Cheers,
Simon

Leif

The toughest might be a varnish, but they are not easy to apply well without spray equipment, and they give a plastic look that some people do not like. Danish Oil gives a more natural appearance, like wood but more intense, and with wax on top, shiny. I prefer DO, much nicer, but it is not very tough. Hardwax oil is tougher and more hardwearing. I have never used hardwax oil. Here is a test:

http://www.peakoak.co.uk/blog/guides/a-guide-to-oak-floor-finishes

Colron do tinted Danish Oil, I've used the Medium Oak, it works well. DO is easy to apply and get a top quality finish.

There are various kinds of dye and stain. (Supposedly stain is like a paint, whereas dye soaks in to the wood, and accentuates grain more, but the makers mix the terms.) Water based raises the grain, so you first dampen the wood, remove the raised grain, then apply stain. Oil based stain does not raise the stain, and in my experience accentuates the grain more, but it is incompatible with DO because the latter is a solvent. Spirit dyes are alcohol based, are compatible with DO, but they dry quickly so they are not so easy to apply and get an even effect. I gave up on dye/stain, and I use coloured DO. You can add spirit dye to DO.

Yes you do need to top coat a dye/stain, it is just a colour with no protection.

Treatex do coloured hardwax oil. But they say you really need to top coat with the plain stuff for proper protection. And it costs at least £20 a tin. So that's £40+. :eek:

Confused? Oops.

DirectDebacle

Preparation is the key. Dust is your enemy.

If you have used a chemical stripper eg Nitromors thoroughly clean any residue off and netralise with meths. Use generously and scrub with a green Scotchbrite. Buy genuine Scotchbrite and not cheapo green scourers.
After removing the paint sand the surface smooth and flat. Work up through the grades of grit finishing with at least 180 and no more than 220 grit sandpaper. Do not skip more than one grade of grit.

Before applying any finish ensure the surface is dust free. Wipe with a tack cloth or white spirit and allow to dry. The bare timber when wetted with white spirit will show you, more or less, the colour of the wood after a clear finish has been applied. Should tell you whether you want to stain it or not.

I recommend you use a P.U. varnish e.g. Ronseal for a tabletop. It is durable, easy to maintain and re-finish when required. Applied correctly by brush it will give a very good finish and does not look plasticky.

Apply in 3 coats and work with and across the grain for even and consistent coverage. Always finish brushing with the grain.

If necessary de-nib between coats using 320-400 grit wet and dry paper, used dry and wipe off any dust.

Coat 1. 60 white spirit/40 varnish.

Coat 2. 40 white spirit/60 varnish

Coat 3. Straight from the tin.

The first 2 coats provide deep penetration and protection. Final coat is the finish coat. Apply thinly, evenly and gently. A good quality brush and practice will leave an excellent finish. Do tests on scrap wood first.

Satin gives a soft sheen.

P.U. varnish is durable but you should be using placemats/coasters to protect the table.

Good luck.

Simon_G_2

Thanks for the reply, Leif. Still trying to digest all that, so forgive me if I miss something.

I'd like to achieve a finish that looks great, with a low sheen but also feels nice to the touch too. If I were to use DO, would I be OK finishing it with a layer of wax? The only reason I ask is that I'd read that wax doesn't offer protection from heat or liquids.

From the (very useful) link you posted I'm perhaps leaning more towards the hard wax oil - as it looks very durable against stains and spills. Do you know how hard wax oil copes with heat?

Thanks again, your reply has been very insightful.

Simon

Leif

Hello Simon, I assume the wax is merely a cosmetic layer on the DO, although it will add some water resistance. I have no idea about heat resistance, but you don't want to put hot objects on the table, use coasters and place mats, it's what they were made for. I am also researching hardwax oil, having never used it.

I am leaning towards hardwax oil for my chest of drawers, the big issue being cost i.e. £40 if I want colour. You can get 50ml samples of Treatex hardwax oil on ebay for ~£3 a pop.

DigForVictory

Hurrah for a man liberating wood from paint!
Have you had a good look at the wood from underneath (presuming it's one slab) to ensure it is worth all your effort?
We've an ash table which is oiled. No laquer, no wax, and we are generous with table mats, trivets etc.
(Then sand it a bit every other year & reoil it.)
All the best with your table!