Gas hob/oven electrics question

pinkshoes

We have a new gas hob and an electric fan oven.

I had the hob fitted today by a gas safe person, but he said he wouldn't connect it back to the electric "box" underneath as it was a 30 amp one, and the gas hob needs 3 amps.

The old one was connected to the 30 amps. ohps. The 30 amps is fine for the oven though.

Won't be doing electrical work myself (!), but is it a simple job of having another "box" coming off the 30 amp one?! My OH is saying I shouldn't tile the wall in case it's a bigger job!!

Also, the switch to turn the oven off also turns two plug sockets off. Is this dodgy? The rest of the plug sockets in the kitchen seem to be on a different circuit.

Any help most appreciated, or maybe point me in the right direction.

If it's going to be an expensive job, then I'll leave the gas hob unplugged and just light it with a match for now!

cyclonebri1

pinkshoes wrote: »

We have a new gas hob and an electric fan oven.

I had the hob fitted today by a gas safe person, but he said he wouldn't connect it back to the electric "box" underneath as it was a 30 amp one, and the gas hob needs 3 amps.

The old one was connected to the 30 amps. ohps. The 30 amps is fine for the oven though.

Won't be doing electrical work myself (!), but is it a simple job of having another "box" coming off the 30 amp one?! My OH is saying I shouldn't tile the wall in case it's a bigger job!!

Also, the switch to turn the oven off also turns two plug sockets off. Is this dodgy? The rest of the plug sockets in the kitchen seem to be on a different circuit.

Any help most appreciated, or maybe point me in the right direction.

If it's going to be an expensive job, then I'll leave the gas hob unplugged and just light it with a match for now!

The hob should be plugged into a 13 amp socket outlet, but with a 5 amp fuse in the plug if it's a true 3amp load.

Should be simple enough to take that feed from what you already have.

Myser

The 3A supply will be for the ignitor on the hob and any other electronics e.g. a clock.

You need to have a FCU (Fused Connection Unit) wired to the 30A junction box and the hob connected to that. The supplied 13A fuse in the FCU should be replaced with a 3A one.

FCU (unswitched):

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/White%20Wiring%20Accessories/Fused%20Spur%2013A/d190/sd2633/p44125

FCU (switched):

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/White%20Wiring%20Accessories/Switched%20Connection%20Unit/d190/sd2633/p44377

pinkshoes

Thank you! Yes, the 3A is for the igniter on the hob.

Sounds like it won't be too complicated!

Is it nice and simple wiring the 13A FCU to the 30A junction box?

keystone

pinkshoes wrote: »

Thank you! Yes, the 3A is for the igniter on the hob.

Sounds like it won't be too complicated!

Is it nice and simple wiring the 13A FCU to the 30A junction box?

Yes it is but its in the kitchen so it really should have a proper sparks to do it.

It sounds as though the double socket (its not a junction box I'm suspecting but a surface mounted socket on a patress) has been wired as a spur off an old cooker connection unit. Effectively you'll be spurring off the spur to add the FCU (although that's potentially a moot point - some might say extending it isn't the same thing but thats not an argument for here) which is not good practice.

TBH your electrics sound a little dodgy enyway so when you get someone to look at that then he can look at the rest of it too.

Alternatively you just say conkers to it and plug the ignitor into the second socket using a 13A plug but with a three amp fuse in it.

Cheers