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Immersion heater at new flat
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MattCheetham wrote: »Well i've turned off the "Boiler" switch for now as you're right. I won't be needing the radiators in these temperatures!
Strangely, turning off the boiler switch and leaving the programmer switch on results in a flashing battery light on the programmer display. Presumably its power comes via the boiler which is strange.
Yeah its a shame the immersion doesn't have a timer as that means I now have to remember to turn it on and off at the right times. That could take some getting used to.
I'm going to give the electricity company a call back tomorrow and ask about the times for economy 10.
Sounds like some really dodgy wiring! :eek: I suggest you call the LL/agent and get them to get an electrician round to check it out.
Perhaps ask if he could fit a timer to your immersion whilst he's there?
Anyway, in the meantime, I suggest you turn the boiler switch back on, but ensure it remains off by setting the programmer accordingly.0 -
Sounds like some really dodgy wiring! :eek: I suggest you call the LL/agent and get them to get an electrician round to check it out.
Perhaps ask if he could fit a timer to your immersion whilst he's there?
Anyway, in the meantime, I suggest you turn the boiler switch back on, but ensure it remains off by setting the programmer accordingly.
The estate agents are useless. Pretty much refuse to do anything I ask. I've had to call them 3-4 times a day for 4 days just to get them to send someone round to fix the kitchen sink because it wasn't plumbed in!
There is actually an electrician due round on Monday to fix some lights but I'll be at work when he comes round I suspect. Guess I'll drop the agent an email and see what they say.
Oh and i've switched the boiler switch back on but set the programmer to off so as per your recommendation.0 -
MattCheetham wrote: »Well i've turned off the "Boiler" switch for now as you're right. I won't be needing the radiators in these temperatures!
Strangely, turning off the boiler switch and leaving the programmer switch on results in a flashing battery light on the programmer display. Presumably its power comes via the boiler which is strange.
Yeah its a shame the immersion doesn't have a timer as that means I now have to remember to turn it on and off at the right times. That could take some getting used to.
I'm going to give the electricity company a call back tomorrow and ask about the times for economy 10.Sounds like some really dodgy wiring! :eek: I suggest you call the LL/agent and get them to get an electrician round to check it out.
Perhaps ask if he could fit a timer to your immersion whilst he's there?
Anyway, in the meantime, I suggest you turn the boiler switch back on, but ensure it remains off by setting the programmer accordingly.
The flashing battery symbol when you switch of the main boiler switch does not indicate dodgy wiring. The programmer is normally powered by the mains supply but it has an internal battery backup to save your desired settings in the event of a power cut.
The mains feed to the boiler is the grey surface mounted cable entering the main boiler switch from the right. From here the mains is fed to the boiler and also to the programmer via the fused switch next to the main boiler switch.
Fitting a timeswitch to the Megaflo probably would not save very much because the spec for the DD125HE states that the heat loss is rated at 1.7kW per 24 hours @ 65 degrees C. They are designed to be left ON continuously allowing the stat to maintain the temperature of the very well insulated heatstore.:doh: Blue text on this forum usually signifies hyperlinks, so click on them!..:wall:0 -
The flashing battery symbol when you switch of the main boiler switch does not indicate dodgy wiring. The programmer is normally powered by the mains supply but it has an internal battery backup to save your desired settings in the event of a power cut.
The mains feed to the boiler is the grey surface mounted cable entering the main boiler switch from the right. From here the mains is fed to the boiler and also to the programmer via the fused switch next to the main boiler switch.
...
If that's the case, what is the pupose of the switch marked progammer?
Why would anyone want to turn off the electricity supply just to the programmer when the boiler is still on? (especially when, as you say, the programmer has a battery back up)0 -
There are in fact two water heaters, the top one for hot~tap~water only. The bottom one with the 'tundish' is for hot-radiator~water only. The bottom one will have [non standard] L shaped elements, what's in the top one I've no idea but as it can have up to 3 separate 3kW elements I suspect these are also L shaped. The bottom heater is PartL the top heater must be an 'instant' on demand unit in which case PartL specs would be of no value as there is little or no storage.
The DD125HE the very nice espresso poster mentions is the hot-radiator~water only and not the one we are trying to help the O/P with, the radiators work, we know that, its the water~for~taps and the wiring the controller / programmer / switching that the O/P [and others here] is trying to understand. BTW as a follow on to an earlier thread the elements to the hot~tap~water heater as I stated, is bog standard 1.5mm 3 core HOFR sheathed.
Lets all stick to trying to help the O/P shall we !Disclaimer : Everything I write on this forum is my opinion. I try to be an even-handed poster and accept that you at times may not agree with these opinions or how I choose to express them, this is not my problem. The Disabled : If years cannot be added to their lives, at least life can be added to their years - Alf Morris - ℜ0 -
...............If that's the case, what is the pupose of the switch marked progammer?
Simply so that the programmer can be fused @ 3A as required.
Why would anyone want to turn off the electricity supply just to the programmer when the boiler is still on? (especially when, as you say, the programmer has a battery back up).
The main "Boiler switch" isolates the whole central heating system, the fused spur switch feeds the programmer but it could have been simply a fused spur outlet - the switch is not required.:doh: Blue text on this forum usually signifies hyperlinks, so click on them!..:wall:0 -
Richie-from-the-Boro wrote: »There are in fact two water heaters, the top one for hot~tap~water only. The bottom one with the 'tundish' is for hot-radiator~water only. The bottom one will have [non standard] L shaped elements, what's in the top one I've no idea but as it can have up to 3 separate 3kW elements I suspect these are also L shaped. The bottom heater is PartL the top heater must be an 'instant' on demand unit in which case PartL specs would be of no value as there is little or no storage.
The DD125HE the very nice espresso poster mentions is the hot-radiator~water only and not the one we are trying to help the O/P with, the radiators work, we know that, its the water~for~taps and the wiring the controller / programmer / switching that the O/P [and others here] is trying to understand. BTW as a follow on to an earlier thread the elements to the hot~tap~water heater as I stated, is bog standard 1.5mm 3 core HOFR sheathed.
Lets all stick to trying to help the O/P shall we !
You are completely wrong again Richie!
Your post contradicts what the OP has already found out for himself and does not help.
Why do you keep waffling on about things that you clearly don't understand?
If you actually read the published technical information for the installed kit, you may start to understand what has been installed and how it works! Then again I suspect the technical info would be way over your head.
:rotfl::doh: Blue text on this forum usually signifies hyperlinks, so click on them!..:wall:0 -
You are completely wrong again Richie!
Your post contradicts what the OP has already found out for himself and does not help.
Why do you keep waffling on about things that you clearly don't understand?
If you actually read the published technical information for the installed kit, you may start to understand what has been installed and how it works! Then again I suspect the technical info would be way over your head.
:rotfl:
- you argue a lot and say nowt useful
- you come over somewhere between a bit and a lot of a pratt
- you post and I and others post, stalking me all over the forums might make you feel better
- but won't change a thing from my end, you post and I post, feel free
As for the tech side of IT you never were much cop as I REM, which is prolly why you are out of it now.Disclaimer : Everything I write on this forum is my opinion. I try to be an even-handed poster and accept that you at times may not agree with these opinions or how I choose to express them, this is not my problem. The Disabled : If years cannot be added to their lives, at least life can be added to their years - Alf Morris - ℜ0 -
Richie-from-the-Boro wrote: »- you argue a lot and say nowt useful
- you come over somewhere between a bit and a lot of a pratt
- you post and I and others post, stalking me all over the forums might make you feel better
- but won't change a thing from my end, you post and I post, feel free
As for the tech side of IT you never were much cop as I REM, which is prolly why you are out of it now.
I see that you have resorted to your usual diatribe personal insults after you have been proved wrong yet again, you really are pathetic!
You obviously have a very poor memory and make far too many assumptions. I don't like to see incorrect information posted so yes I have commented on some of your incorrect posts previously, which you obviously resent but I have never staked you.
Lets recap exactly what you posted in your penultimate post and others can judge just how useful you have been to the OP:
.............Richie-from-the-Boro wrote: »There are in fact two water heaters, the top one for hot~tap~water only.
Wrong it is for the Aztec Gold system boiler that feeds the radiators.
The bottom one with the 'tundish' is for hot-radiator~water only.
Wrong it is the Megaflo hot water supply storage cylinder.
The bottom one will have [non standard] L shaped elements,
It is plain for all to see that it has one single element.
what's in the top one I've no idea but as it can have up to 3 separate 3kW elements I suspect these are also L shaped.
Wrong again and if you had read the Fitting, Operation, Installation & Servicing document that I previously linked to for the Aztec Gold boiler, you would know that it contains one single heat exchanger and NOT 3 separate 3kW elements.
The bottom heater is PartL the top heater must be an 'instant' on demand unit in which case PartL specs would be of no value as there is little or no storage.
We know that the top heater is an Aztec Gold system boiler for the radiators.
The DD125HE the very nice espresso poster mentions is the hot-radiator~water only
Wrong again, you obviously can't read or simply don't understand the information provided.
and not the one we are trying to help the O/P with, the radiators work, we know that, its the water~for~taps and the wiring the controller / programmer / switching that the O/P [and others here] is trying to understand.
It only seems to be you that doesn't understand!
BTW as a follow on to an earlier thread the elements to the hot~tap~water heater as I stated, is bog standard 1.5mm 3 core HOFR sheathed.
As that is the cable feeding the Aztec Gold system boiler that you are describing, it is obvious to everybody else except you that the boiler can NOT be rated at 9kW as I have stated several times.
Lets all stick to trying to help the O/P shall we !
Yes, so stop posting about things that you obviously haven't got a clue about.
Accept that you could possibility be wrong and just stick to the facts.
Remember that your misguided opinions and wild guesswork do not help anyone, they simply show your ignorance!:doh: Blue text on this forum usually signifies hyperlinks, so click on them!..:wall:0 -
The top one for hot~tap~water only, what's in the top one I've no idea but as it can have up to 3 separate 3kW elements I suspect these are also L shaped, it does have two elements as can be seen both will be 3kW the bottom one [two baths full about 3 hours - auto] for the cheap rate circuit and the top other one [about 100 litres - manual boost only heats the top half or less] for the day rate. Normally on a direct unit only one 3kW circuit can be live at one time, this one clearly is different though why two or more 3k elements simultaneously for tap use only I don't get other than it would give the whole 170 litre tank full in about half the time at about an hour and a half.
What I and others fail to understand is the timer / switching the E10 even with the radiators turned off should supply 10 hours of cheap rate electricity to your immersion heater. You should not need a manual over-ride. I suspect much of this will be down to reading the user manual, as my very good friend 'espresso' suggests. Then there's the tariff whether its an un-restricted or restricted E10.
O/P
q.1. When you switched on the hot water manually with the switch did you get a lot, as in a couple of bath loads, or half or less than a couple of bath loads.
q.2.What is your programmer set to ? is there a domestic hot water setting ?
q.3. Anyone found a user not tech manualDisclaimer : Everything I write on this forum is my opinion. I try to be an even-handed poster and accept that you at times may not agree with these opinions or how I choose to express them, this is not my problem. The Disabled : If years cannot be added to their lives, at least life can be added to their years - Alf Morris - ℜ0
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