Water red hot, but boiler and immersion heater are off?

gentlepurr

macman wrote: »

Sounds like your plumber is just adopting a a 'swap everything out until it works' approach, rather than proper fault-finding.
At your expense.

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

I call it a scatter gun approach, :D

keystone wrote: »

I must admit I thought that last evening but allowed "benefit of doubt" to creep in until we get more info.

Cheers

Just to update, ran the water off and it hasnt heated up again although the pipes leading to and from the pump in the airing cupboard are still red hot the hot water cylinder (what bit i can feel) is cold, so just hoping it will all settle down.

I have to say i agree with your comments about the programmer, it was the first thing the plumber looked at and tested with the electrical tester tool, i was sceptical but tbh i dont feel to ripped off, he charged me £80 to supply and fit new valve unit and programmer, still a sh1te but it could have been alot worse methinks

keystone

I'd still like to know if the water in CWST is /was showing a tendency to be anything other than stone cold and now would like to know the same about the F&E tank.

Is the pump running when the boiler fires up?

Is there a bleed point or airsep at the highest point on the primary?

A pic of the pipework in the area would be useful please.

Cheers

Mr_Ted

keystone wrote: »

I'd still like to know if the water in CWST is /was showing a tendency to be anything other than stone cold and now would like to know the same about the F&E tank.
Is the pump running when the boiler fires up?
Is there a bleed point or airsep at the highest point on the primary?
A pic of the pipework in the area would be useful please.
Cheers

With respect, WHY?

If the problem is cure it will be of no consequence!
If the valve in total was changed the plumber would probably have accessed the F&E tank!

But most of all, why put someone who has the stress of caring for 2 people to the trouble?

southcoastrgi

I still can't work out why the flow & ret is hot if the boiler isn't or hasnt been running, not got solar panels have you ?

cyclonebri1

keystone wrote: »

I'd still like to know if the water in CWST is /was showing a tendency to be anything other than stone cold and now would like to know the same about the F&E tank.

Is the pump running when the boiler fires up?

Is there a bleed point or airsep at the highest point on the primary?

A pic of the pipework in the area would be useful please.

Cheers

You guys know I aint' a plumber, but I do know a good base of this stuff.

I had a similar issues, a bungalow, far too high a water pressure from the recirculating pump

Pump turned down from 3 to 2, bingo.

keystone

Mr_Ted wrote: »

With respect, WHY?

As far as the CWST is concerned because I am trying to eliminate a split coil in the cylinder as a source of the overheating DHW. Secondly now he has said that the pipes leading to/from the pump are also red hot then there is a possibility of a magnetite blockage in the usual place which would normally lead to pumping over into the F&E tank n'est pas?

If the problem is cure it will be of no consequence!

Indeed but if he does have a split coil then we all know the potential consequences of boiling hot water in a plastic CWST. So being unable to see hear or touch it I'm just covering bases.

If the valve in total was changed the plumber would probably have accessed the F&E tank!

Yes IF. If, however, he just changed the head and at an £ 80 for valve, programmer and labour that's what I expect then he probably wouldn't have gone anywhere the near the F&E tank as there would be no reason to drain down if not doing a whole valve change.

But most of all, why put someone who has the stress of caring for 2 people to the trouble?

Because he's asked for help. Its not exactly challenging to pop up into the roof to check these things. If I were on site I'd be doing it myself but I'm not so have to ask.

Still winking then I see. :rotfl::rotfl:

Cheers

keystone

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

I had a similar issues, a bungalow, far too high a water pressure from the recirculating pump

Pump turned down from 3 to 2, bingo.

Yes. Pump set to too high a speed is another cause of pumping over.

Cheers

keystone

southcoastrgi wrote: »

I still can't work out why the flow & ret is hot if the boiler isn't or hasnt been running, not got solar panels have you ?

Sound question. I have a suspicion that the boiler is running though.

Cheers

gentlepurr

southcoastrgi wrote: »

I still can't work out why the flow & ret is hot if the boiler isn't or hasnt been running, not got solar panels have you ?

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

You guys know I aint' a plumber, but I do know a good base of this stuff.

I had a similar issues, a bungalow, far too high a water pressure from the recirculating pump

Pump turned down from 3 to 2, bingo.

keystone wrote: »

As far as the CWST is concerned because I am trying to eliminate a split coil in the cylinder as a source of the overheating DHW. Secondly now he has said that the pipes leading to/from the pump are also red hot then there is a possibility of a magnetite blockage in the usual place which would normally lead to pumping over into the F&E tank n'est pas?

Indeed but if he does have a split coil then we all know the potential consequences of boiling hot water in a plastic CWST. So being unable to see hear or touch it I'm just covering bases.

Yes IF. If, however, he just changed the head and at an £ 80 for valve, programmer and labour that's what I expect then he probably wouldn't have gone anywhere the near the F&E tank as there would be no reason to drain down if not doing a whole valve change.

Because he's asked for help. Its not exactly challenging to pop up into the roof to check these things. If I were on site I'd be doing it myself but I'm not so have to ask.

Still winking then I see. :rotfl::rotfl:

Cheers

Thanks for all your replies Guys, its really appreciated, even if i dont understand some of what youve written

As a 5' nothing lady with a wobbly knee, lol, its not easy for me to get into the loft and then start poking about at things i havnt got a clue about but after two days of having the boiler switched off and not using any hot water the pipes are still hot running to and from the pump in the ac. I dont think the pump is running as i cant hear it or feel it vibrating at all, so how would i turn the pump down, and am i likely to be doing more harm than good in trying it?

No, i dont think the plumber checked the f and e tank, if thats the tank in the loft he definately didnt go there. I havnt got any solar panels so i just cant work out why pipes are still hot.

Myser

Do you know if the complete zone valve was changed or just the head (plastic box on top)?

Not all pumps have a speed adjustment. If it did, you would see a rotary switch on the plastic connection box with markings such as I, II and III.

When you say you haven't used any hot water, have you not run off the hot water in the tank? Washed the dishes, had baths or showers as suggested above?