removing bitumen from solid floor

jcb208

I can not believe why people are complicating things ,even to the extent of ripping up and laying a new floor ,Just lay the floor over the top of it ,it will be fine

mattk1234

jcb208 so option 4. do you think this will work.. its certainly my preference. I just heard that the bitumen doesn't allow the grout to set and then you end up with a big mess.

muckybutt

Being MSE I would go for option 4, perfectly safe encapsulating it.

Providing you size the area first with a pva wash, the sand cement will adhere to the floor

ian103

we had the same issue in our utility / hall - used a pva type primer and then used flexible adhesive. Just about to have the kitchen tiled and again no special preparation.

tony6403

mattk1234 wrote: »

regarding levels. I'm sounding like a right cowboy now. I was planning on having 'steps' between areas and adjusting the doors accordingly. is that really not the done thing?
Matt

If you are happy with the different levels then I think that you could lay the stone over existing.
My opinion is that it will create a tripping hazard that you may come to regret.
Have you considered what you will use to finish the end of the stone flooring at the threshold - presumably a length of hardwood?
Also will your doors withstand the removal of the required amount to clear the new stone floor. If they are ledged and braced doors then you will have no problem.

Gastines2

I have had to deal with this problem numerous times over the last 30+ years whilst re-furbishing properties and have always done the same ting. I did contact the manufacturers of latex screeds who advised me that their product was not suitable but gave no alternatives. After removing the Marley tiles I scrape as much as the old bitumen adhesive up as possible with a sharp scraper,then go over the floor with a steel spiked hedgehog [not a live one but the sort used for removing painted wallpaper prior to steaming. I then apply a very weak coat of PVA and whilst still wet put down a thin coat of latex screed. You can apply another coats if required. I have used this method on dozens of jobs including several of our own homes,we are always moving,in kitchens and bathrooms and have never had any problems,loose tiles or movement/damp.This may not be following the written rules but having to deal with problems that arise on sites you either find a solution or you don't earn.
The worse thing is that 50+ years ago I used to lay the things,spread the bitumen adhesive,wait till dry then hot lay the tiles. We used to cart a little oven around to warm the tiles up.Too hot and the tiles shrink back leaving wide joints.Cold tiles impossible too cut but warm,you can bend them and cut them easily.I then wenton to lay carpets for Marley but their entry into the carpet world seemed to be a bad move. Marley Tiles/Garages/Carpets/Pipework/Rubber Mouldings,shops everywhere,another job loss for the UK!!
With other adhesives you can use a compound called Stopgap by Ball & Co.