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Any building inspectors or engineers, need some help.
Comments
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Yes architect did speak to redland with regard to pitch, and roofer has spoke to Marley with regard to birkdale. And yes the keylite windows we have will go to 15 degrees too.
The pitch plate is "fix 47 x 200mm pitch plate to the wall at 600mm ctrs with M10 bolts staggered with chemical fixings."
Unsure what you mean by lack or ceiling restraint? Do you mean is the roof tied to the brickwork, as it is by large metal bars which span into the roof timbers from underneath.
My brother has been very meticulous with his work so far, and trying to go above and beyond building regs as this is his first job on his own as such, so he wants to be sure its right for us. Building control have been very happy with his work, except for this lintel.0 -
The plate will be well fixed to the wall.
The rafters to the plate is a possible concern. To "belt and brace" it would have been beneficial for the rafter/plate clips to be on the inside face of your extension. Then, if the roof tried to spread the clips would be resisting the force. As formed, a spreading roof would pop the clips from the plate. I assume they are also spiked or screwed to the plate?
If you have satisfactory restaint the clips would not be a big issue - but the clips are only 39 pence in Toolstation. (I would add these clips are not intended for this purpose). So, belt and braces costs peanuts.0 -
"Rafters fixed with minimum 2no nail fixings per rafter." My brother has put 2 nails each side. There are also heavy duty joist hangers at each joint on the rafters.
Also the metal braces are on the inside face of the extension, underneath the rafters.0 -
Yes architect did speak to redland with regard to pitch, and roofer has spoke to Marley with regard to birkdale. And yes the keylite windows we have will go to 15 degrees too.
The pitch plate is "fix 47 x 200mm pitch plate to the wall at 600mm ctrs with M10 bolts staggered with chemical fixings."
Unsure what you mean by lack or ceiling restraint? Do you mean is the roof tied to the brickwork, as it is by large metal bars which span into the roof timbers from underneath.
My brother has been very meticulous with his work so far, and trying to go above and beyond building regs as this is his first job on his own as such, so he wants to be sure its right for us. Building control have been very happy with his work, except for this lintel.
Be aware you cannot fix 10mm chemical fixings into the blocks built over your lintel, neither can they be drilled, or work, into the lintel.
Unfortunately by adding this thread you have helped to condemn the work that has been undertaken, when I suspect you wanted reassurance that it was correct.
Things do go wrong all the time on building sites, even with the best intentions. I am not an exception to this. The key thing is always to try and nip them in the bud. Your issue can be overcome at low cost. If the window is an issue, can the cill be lowered so the same size is still maintained?0 -
There are no chemical fixings above the lintel as far I can tell, the only mention of chemical fixings, is into the pitch plate, which is on the opposite wall (the main house). The rafters above the lintel, sit on the wooden block as in the picture, secured with nails and metal clips.
Can you tell me what has further condemned the work, as I am unsure what you mean by this? Building control have not said anything else is wrong and are happy with everything else, including the roof sturcture, so I don't understand what else is condemning the work?
Also, not sure the cill can be lowered as there will be kitchen units underneath it, so they will then be level.
So how would YOU rectify it?0 -
My apologies, I mis- read pitch plate for wall plate hence thinking the chemical fixings were here. I have not seen this fixing detail before in such a location, and assumed the timber size was a typo! That said chemical fixings would work fine for the wall plate, but not where the lintel is located.
The plate should be bedded on mortar, spiked through into the wall and strapped with restraint straps (properly fixed with gauge 10 screws in bzp or stainless steel to match the straps). Your photo should have a strap each side of the window reveal.
As the window cannot be lowered - I was not aware kitchen base units were located beneath it - then a smaller window is my immediate thought. This might not be a problem for in the case of pvcu and bespoke windows one measures the opening that has been formed and the window is made to fit this.0 -
Thank you.
There is a strap either side of the window, you can just see it in the picture to the left hand side.
In your 2nd paragraph, do you mean the "plate" as in the wood that sits on top of the lintel? If so it may well me fixed with screws, I haven't been up and had a look. (I just re-read my post so can see why you think it is secured with nails, I meant the rafters onto are, sorry)
So with your solution being a smaller window, is this so that the lintel then sits lower so it can have the correct amount of brickwork above it?
Think we'll still need another window, as they've been measured for the existing hole (they are pvcu).0 -
I'd say this is a very valuable lesson for your brother, because if he had done this on a customers house he would be paying for the c0ckup to put it right & a new window (if this has already been ordered)I'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.
You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.0 -
Yes, no doubt it will be. Although also makes me wonder about building control too, if my brother has seen this done on other builds and a building inspector has never picked it up before, seems some are obviously "better" than others.
We did go into this with the knowledge there may be a few errors, due to him never having done a full build himself before, so will take it on the chin. Im just impatient in waiting for building control and wanted to know what would need to be done to fix it, if at all.0 -
Thank you.
There is a strap either side of the window, you can just see it in the picture to the left hand side.
In your 2nd paragraph, do you mean the "plate" as in the wood that sits on top of the lintel? If so it may well me fixed with screws, I haven't been up and had a look. (I just re-read my post so can see why you think it is secured with nails, I meant the rafters onto are, sorry)
So with your solution being a smaller window, is this so that the lintel then sits lower so it can have the correct amount of brickwork above it?
Think we'll still need another window, as they've been measured for the existing hole (they are pvcu).
Yes it would mean a lower lintel and a smaller window. You cannot adequately spike or screw into what little blockwork exists above the lintel.
It would be belt and braces to have a strap to tie the lintel, wallplate (the timber on top of the wall) and wall. The lintel should have a minimum bearing of 150mm and when working to stock sizes this could be 200mm plus. This is a weak area so strap within it (but it is not a good location for the proper strapping down of the wallplate). Also put straps at the correct centres along the wall.
Building Inspectors do vary. A few months back I had a run in with one department boss. In these litigous times they have to cover their backs. I received a written response saying do not expect a quality control service, nor project management, nor Clerk of Works role from their staff. Plus, their role was only to consider Building Regulation issues.
In other words, errors had been made but if I pursued these this letter would be flagged up as a defence. One would then open a separate case on whether this letter was fair and reasonable..and so it would go on.
There is no substitute for your own inspection, however you wish this to be undertaken.0
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