Refinishing a veneer dining table

Abatement

I have a veneer dining table the surface of which has seen better days, and I'd like to give it a bit of a spruce up. In particular there are quite a few white marks, and the middle section (which obviously wasn't used much by the previous owner) is a completely different colour. I've linked to a picture so you can see what I mean.

I should say that I don't need or want it to look absolutely perfect, just a bit better than it does at the moment!

Can anybody offer some advice on how to go about this? I'm particularly worried about the fact that it's veneer, so sanding may not be an option. Google isn't helping me much!

Any advice appreciated...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/iik1tkbbmrzihyf/IMAG0227.jpg

Wi88le

If the surface is good for painting then "cupboard paint" wil go straight onto the surface, might want laquering/varnishing afterwards though.
http://www.dulux.co.uk/advice/questions/faq/faq_012.jsp

If not you can lightly sand the veneer, but don't sand through it, then paint on top

http://m.wikihow.com/Paint-Veneer

cyclonebri1

Or if you want it to remain varnished then sand and refinish with any decent quality lacquer.

Veneered tops are usually good for 1 resurfacing attempt before the veneer sands through in places, bear in mind the previous owner may already have done this.

Also bear in mind any imperfections stains cup marks etc, that you seal in are there for good.;)

DirectDebacle

First protect the base/legs from dripping stripper with masking tape and newspaper, unless you plan on stripping the base.

You need to strip the surface with Nitromors or similar. When stripping wood always use a blunt stripping knife and work with the grain. Clean off residue and then really wet the wood with methylated spirit and scrub with a green Scotch Brite. Use a genuine Scotch Brite not a cheap 5 for a £ green scourer from supermakets. This will neutralize any remaining stripper lurking down in the grain which would affect the finish you later apply.

You will need to treat the drop in leaf the same way. When done see what you are left with. With luck the ring marks and stains will have disappeared. If not then there are three choices.

Leave as is and re-finish, light sanding or treat with oxalic acid.

You can hand sand using a sanding block and a grit no coarser than 150. Do not concentrate on the marks but sand the whole of the top evenly. Doing this will avoid creating 'dishes' in the surface which become obvious once the finish is applied.

If after two or three light sandings the marks have not come out consider treating with oxalic acid. This is widely available in its pure form and is also sold as a ready to use furniture cleaner/restorer.Research it. You can start here.

Finish and colour is a matter of choice and a huge range is available. Virtually all finishes will darken wood, even clear, so you can experiment on a small area with various finishes on the drop in leaf or on a similar piece of scrap wood to find which you prefer.

If you don't have access to spray equipment then in my view the most suitable top coat is a good quality polyurethane varnish. Apply three thin coats. Thin with white spirit (or whatever the recommended thinner is)

1st coat 60thinner/40 varnish

2nd coat 40 thinner/60 varnish

Final coat straight from the tin.

Coats 1 & 2 will soak into the wood for deep protection and dry quickly. Final coat provides the protective finish. Use a good quality brush and work into the grain by brushing with and across the grain, always finishing with the grain.

De-nib between coats with 320-400 grit wet and dry used dry.

Abatement

DirectDebacle wrote: »

If you don't have access to spray equipment then in my view the most suitable top coat is a good quality polyurethane varnish. Apply three thin coats. Thin with white spirit (or whatever the recommended thinner is)

1st coat 60thinner/40 varnish

2nd coat 40 thinner/60 varnish

Final coat straight from the tin.

Coats 1 & 2 will soak into the wood for deep protection and dry quickly. Final coat provides the protective finish. Use a good quality brush and work into the grain by brushing with and across the grain, always finishing with the grain.

De-nib between coats with 320-400 grit wet and dry used dry.

Thanks for the detailed advice - really appreciate it. On the finish, I was thinking of some sort of oil rather than varnish. Is that a bad idea?

DirectDebacle

Abatement wrote: »

Thanks for the detailed advice - really appreciate it. On the finish, I was thinking of some sort of oil rather than varnish. Is that a bad idea?

Oil is fine but not very durable unless you use pure Tung oil which is horrendously expensive. Oil is a wonderful finish for wood and I use it often. It does dry out an requires re-application from time to time. Applying a good quality beeswax once the oil has cured will further enhance the finish. I like clear Briwax but there are other good brands too. I tend not to use oil on tables that will be subjected to hot/wet items and spills unless I apply a protective coat of clear varnish on top.

I like varnish for coffee/dining type tables because it protects and requires little maintenance. However it is your table and you can put whatever you like on it.

Good luck and work safe. Heavy duty Marigolds and eye protection are a good start.

Abatement

DirectDebacle wrote: »

Oil is fine but not very durable unless you use pure Tung oil which is horrendously expensive. Oil is a wonderful finish for wood and I use it often. It does dry out an requires re-application from time to time. Applying a good quality beeswax once the oil has cured will further enhance the finish. I like clear Briwax but there are other good brands too. I tend not to use oil on tables that will be subjected to hot/wet items and spills unless I apply a protective coat of clear varnish on top.

I like varnish for coffee/dining type tables because it protects and requires little maintenance. However it is your table and you can put whatever you like on it.

Good luck and work safe. Heavy duty Marigolds and eye protection are a good start.

Thanks again. I wasn't sure if there was a reason for not using oil on veneer, but obviously not. Perhaps I need to do both oil and varnish then.

Cheers.

cyclonebri1

Abatement wrote: »

Thanks again. I wasn't sure if there was a reason for not using oil on veneer, but obviously not. Perhaps I need to do both oil and varnish then.

Cheers.

You don't need both.

The problem is that almost any lacquer/varnish finish that you use will still ring mark with hot cups etc, I've found water based ones to be particularly bad for this. 2 pack industrial stuff works best but that is out of reach of most, (had a mate that worked for a major UK furniture manufacturer, he used to slip me the out of date stuff).

DirectDebacle

Varnish over oil is not necessary but advisable. It provides an extra level of protection that oil does not give by itself. My experience is that the majority of water/heat marks to a varnished or factory finish are in the finish itself and do not penetrate through to the wood.

When done see what you are left with. With luck the ring marks and stains will have disappeared. If not then there are three choices.

Varnish will sit on the surface of the wood providing a thin barrier between what is put on it and the wood. If in the future marks do appear then there is every chance that all that will be required is to strip off the varnish and re-apply. This would avoid sanding what will probably be a thinner veneer than exists at the moment.