Price on fixing an EGR valve fault?

Shawn_Dark

Anyone know someone in the Middlesbrough/Durham area who can remove/bypass the EGR valve?

Any ideas how much it will cost?

forgotmyname

I think the issue with blocking it is that there is a valve that extends out of the EGR. So a simple plate wont work.

Have you read the fault codes though?


Its not just common rail injectors that get faulty. Standard injectors can wear and fail also.

Timing chains can jump a tooth or more, It will run if its just one tooth out. But not as well as it should.

Glowplugs need sorting sooner rather than later if they are the issue. It will have excess unburnt fuel if they dont work properly. The engine cannot compress this and bends the conrods. Eventually it gets bad enough that even with new glowplugs the compression has dropped and it struggles even more.

Shawn_Dark

forgotmyname wrote: »

I think the issue with blocking it is that there is a valve that extends out of the EGR. So a simple plate wont work.

Have you read the fault codes though?


Its not just common rail injectors that get faulty. Standard injectors can wear and fail also.

Timing chains can jump a tooth or more, It will run if its just one tooth out. But not as well as it should.

Glowplugs need sorting sooner rather than later if they are the issue. It will have excess unburnt fuel if they dont work properly. The engine cannot compress this and bends the conrods. Eventually it gets bad enough that even with new glowplugs the compression has dropped and it struggles even more.

It keeps bringing the same code up even with two different machines (glow plugs, brake light and EGR valve).

Going to cost £240 for a brand new vauxhall EGR valve (said you can't get aftermarket) and then the connecting parts, throttle box (or something like that) will all be cleaned so £315 including labour.

I'm going to ask them to spray the glow plug in question (the rest have been changed so its just one causing a problem). Question is, how long has it been seized up for?!

patman99

I have the same light come up with the same engine.
The light goes out if I accelerate hard from a standing start and send the revs beyond 3k. It could well be the torque sensor.

The light showing a car with spanner through it is not for emissions, that's the light with the engine on. The car/spanner light is Engine electronics, Automatic transmission & Immobiliser fault.

There is a fuel-based cleaner that will clean the carp from out of your EGR, but is expensive at £11 a bottle. Got my mate's Picasso with 1.6 HDi engine running properly again (turbo now works properly as well).

Richard53

Abu_Yoosha wrote: »

WD40 is a penetrating oil.

It is, although its primary purpose was to displace water and prevent corrosion on metal surfaces (hence the name).

I think Marlot was referring to specific penetrating oils such as 'Plus-Gas' in the UK, which have even lower viscosity than WD40 and can penetrate tight threads more easily.

My advice - get some Plus-Gas and dribble some on the offending plug threads every night for a week. Then use a well-fitting socket (or whatever) and tighten slightly before loosening. This has worked for me over many years of ratty old bikes with seized exhaust studs etc.

Shawn_Dark

patman99 wrote: »

I have the same light come up with the same engine.
The light goes out if I accelerate hard from a standing start and send the revs beyond 3k. It could well be the torque sensor.

The light showing a car with spanner through it is not for emissions, that's the light with the engine on. The car/spanner light is Engine electronics, Automatic transmission & Immobiliser fault.

There is a fuel-based cleaner that will clean the carp from out of your EGR, but is expensive at £11 a bottle. Got my mate's Picasso with 1.6 HDi engine running properly again (turbo now works properly as well).

The jobs all booked in now and the part was ordered earlier today. On the plus side at least the EGR valve is new and will last a long while.

Shawn_Dark

Richard53 wrote: »

It is, although its primary purpose was to displace water and prevent corrosion on metal surfaces (hence the name).

I think Marlot was referring to specific penetrating oils such as 'Plus-Gas' in the UK, which have even lower viscosity than WD40 and can penetrate tight threads more easily.

My advice - get some Plus-Gas and dribble some on the offending plug threads every night for a week. Then use a well-fitting socket (or whatever) and tighten slightly before loosening. This has worked for me over many years of ratty old bikes with seized exhaust studs etc.

Thanks, will try that tomorrow.

forgotmyname

Spray the glowplug?

Even brand new glowplugs can be faulty. If a parts going to fail its usually fairly quickly or within a few weeks/months. After that its probably going to last a long time.

Shawn_Dark

I asked the mechanic about the glowplug and he said the thread is concealed so spraying it would not have an effect because the thread would not be reached.

Richard53

Concealed, or sealed? A concealed thread can still be got at with penetrating oil. If it's sealed from the environment with (for example) an O-ring, then it is hard to see how it could have become corroded. Plus-Gas will get places that water cannot.

Any suggestions that I make are strictly DIY, and none seem to be appropriate for you. If you are determined that nothing you can do will work on it, then I suggest you take it to a garage and ask them to remove it. They will have a lot of experience with seized fasteners and components.