is insurance voidable if you temporarily remove some trim from the exterior?

forgotmyname

You had an accident so will you have any no claims?

atrixblue.-MFR-.

assuming they know know about your aftermarket alloys,aswell as this mod i would say that 35 is the admin charge to your policy (although you could have declaired the mods online admin free).

the colour silver you require for those trims will one of about 3, so have a paint can mixed with the VIN colour code instead of a colour match premix paint.

scotch cloth (with the grey pad) all over the trim taking off the complete shine, then with some alchohol wipes, clean them over, use a plastic primer (2 coats on each trim) let set for 24hours then use epoxy primer (sealer) of 2 coats let set 8 hours, with 1200grit wet and dry (dry not wet) lightly sand the peices down to take off blobs runs etc and have a smoothe surface to work with,then paint 4 full coats of silver, each coat will have a flash time you must not let the pain set hard before coats or be too wet inbetween coats then finish off with a decent laquer.

each paint you buy will be acrylic based even the mixed can and will not be waterbased, your car is coated with eurythane paint as such you cant mix the both! so dont touch up scratches with it itl stick out like sorethumb.

Flying-High_2

Buying the colour coded trims and rubbing strips in the same colour code probably be far cheaper and easier than mucking about with a rattle can trying to get a decent finish...

atrixblue.-MFR-.

Flying-High wrote: »

Buying the colour coded trims and rubbing strips in the same colour code probably be far cheaper and easier than mucking about with a rattle can trying to get a decent finish...

many salvage yards wont separate the strips from doors and bumpers they would rather sell with them on to make them sell easy.

not many sellers know the colour code of their prodcut their listing will list as VW silver and wont list the shade silver or colour code to check against.

londonTiger

forgotmyname wrote: »

You had an accident so will you have any no claims?

Accidebt was just 3 month before renewal, it was settled and non fault - as already stated. had my first 1 year noclaims as well. But the specialty insurers didnt want to know because i also had an accident in a hire car a few yeats bck. Im hoping a 2 year no claims would raise my chances for xheap insurance as my rrecent driving record is a lot better.

londonTiger

atrixblue.-MFR-. wrote: »

many salvage yards wont separate the strips from doors and bumpers they would rather sell with them on to make them sell easy.

not many sellers know the colour code of their prodcut their listing will list as VW silver and wont list the shade silver or colour code to check against.

This is true. ive found it difficult to buy just the mouldibg. Contacted a few breakers and they refused to sell seperately. i theb offered to buy the whole bumper afterwards from one seller and he told me to jyst repray the ones i have because his ones are in bad shape and scratched up.

I suspect it will be hard to find the right colour that is in good nick. Also bumper moulds can be bought primed but quite expensive at 30 quid a pop. I will have to go down the diy route on at least some. So might as well take my chances with all

londonTiger

Yes alloys are declared already.

I'm pretty sure it's not admin charge, I tried to get quotes for this before I wanted to get alloys, colour code bumper trim and put black grille (a few people contrast the grill, like the newer mk6 golfs and looks nice).

They wanted to charge me, around £30 for each. If it was an admin charge I would have thought they would be the same whether I put 1 mod or 3 mods.

Im well aware of the colour code, done a spray job before on O/S wing mirror.

atrixblue.-MFR-. wrote: »

assuming they know know about your aftermarket alloys,aswell as this mod i would say that 35 is the admin charge to your policy (although you could have declaired the mods online admin free).

the colour silver you require for those trims will one of about 3, so have a paint can mixed with the VIN colour code instead of a colour match premix paint.

scotch cloth (with the grey pad) all over the trim taking off the complete shine, then with some alchohol wipes, clean them over, use a plastic primer (2 coats on each trim) let set for 24hours then use epoxy primer (sealer) of 2 coats let set 8 hours, with 1200grit wet and dry (dry not wet) lightly sand the peices down to take off blobs runs etc and have a smoothe surface to work with,then paint 4 full coats of silver, each coat will have a flash time you must not let the pain set hard before coats or be too wet inbetween coats then finish off with a decent laquer.

each paint you buy will be acrylic based even the mixed can and will not be waterbased, your car is coated with eurythane paint as such you cant mix the both! so dont touch up scratches with it itl stick out like sorethumb.

I've gone about it in a roundabout way, used 80 grit sanding block and basically scratched deep grooves into it - without realising at the time.

Then primed it which made the scratches and grooves visible. I then sanded the primer down using 400 grit and re primed it a few time and got the smooth surface. Wasted a lot of primer but you live and learn. Next time I won't sand the surface with grit desided for walls and wood.

Is the expocy primer required? I thougt the plastic primer was designed with all that stuff in like adhesive promoter - and is basically ready to paint on.

Also 4 coats of paint seems like a lot. I read 2 is sufficient. Finally should I let the paint layer cure for 24 hours or laquer it the same day?

londonTiger

also, from the little info available about epoxy primer it seems that this stuff is quite dangerous? it's based on 2K which has killed a lot of DIYers.

Gloomendoom

londonTiger wrote: »

also, from the little info available about epoxy primer it seems that this stuff is quite dangerous? it's based on 2K which has killed a lot of DIYers.

I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that that is an urban myth.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

londonTiger wrote: »

also, from the little info available about epoxy primer it seems that this stuff is quite dangerous? it's based on 2K which has killed a lot of DIYers.

you will require a 2k epoxy primer, the adhesion plastic promoter will throw out alot of large particles youll see what i mean when you put a bit on a test bit of black plastic you can find laying around and your not suppose to sand it back youll end up with a textured surface wich is not what you want.
there are different types of plastic adhesion promotors dont not buy the colour match unless you can find an alternative, its a horride promotor.

used in well ventilated area's with a suitable mask should pose no risk to you.

you could alternatively use a acid primer 1k but its rougher paint surface once apply'd and youll require lots of high build primer #5 in order to be able to sand down smooth without busting the etch primer through, once the epoxy or etch has dried 1hour do not sand it down it breaks the seal, you just primer ontop with a highbuild and sand the high build down flat enough it may take several coats to acheive a smooth surface, trick is be patient and read the flash time instruction with a give or take for enviroment heat and dampness.

with epoxy its a little darker than highbuild but genrally a smoother paint than a 1k etch, also the chemicals in the primer will act as a barrier bonding itself to the plastic promotor giving you peice of mind that A its not going flake off or shrink and crack overtime.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JO9S-RU4hcM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GQKUPsFmWA

essentially what your doing is like what this guy is doing priming up plastic!. in this vid he uses a 2k high build hard to get here without paying through the nose for it. 2k epoxy does the same thing but has a chemical in it to adhere seal and protect.