Will this work? Plumbing related.

sancho

In my outhouse I have a washing machine, there's a cold water pipe which goes from the meter around the wall, up and outside to a garden tap.

I used one of those 'self cutting' kits to add a feed for the washing machine. In the recent cold weather the pipe burst past the washing machine feed - in order to sort it out quickly I cut the pipe and put on an isolation valve (turned off) on the end.

Consequently I have no working outside tap. It currently looks something like this...



I now need the outside tap again, and also want to replace the washing machine valve as I don't hold much confidence in it - it was meant to be a temporary measure over 3 years ago!

I want to do something like this...



1 - http://www.screwfix.com/p/conex-straight-coupling-301-15mm-dzr/65791

2 - http://www.screwfix.com/p/conex-elbow-601-15mm-dzr/41980

3 - http://www.screwfix.com/p/isolating-valve-with-handle-15mm/89226

4 - http://www.screwfix.com/p/washing-machine-valve-tee-15mm-x-bsp/60723

I wanted to put the isolating valve in after the new washing machine tee so in the winter I could turn it off, drain down the tap to possibly reduce the chance of it bursting again.

I have a few questions though:

Are all of those 'bits' suitable?

It is ok to have so many 'joints' in such a small length of piping?

Will I be able to do that myself?

Anything else I should bear in mind?

Many thanks for any suggestions people may offer

Mr_Ted

:TShort answer is YES ok, but with a couple of suggestions;)

Instead of suggested at point 1) I would use this:- http://www.screwfix.com/p/15mm-double-check-valve/96336 as an outside tap should have, according to water bylaws, a double check valve fitted to prevent contaminated water from being syphoned back from the hose used outside:)

I would also place the valve 3) before the washing machine valve 4) as the area is obviously prone to frost damage, so that all of the pipework can be isolated and drained in cold weather, maybe inconvenient for use but consider a washing machine hose will freeze and burst also, but turning it on and off according to usage wil not be that inconvenient compared to water damage due to a burst pipe;)

Also consider lagging!

sancho

Mr_Ted wrote: »

:TShort answer is YES ok, but with a couple of suggestions;)

Instead of suggested at point 1) I would use this:- http://www.screwfix.com/p/15mm-double-check-valve/96336 as an outside tap should have, according to water bylaws, a double check valve fitted to prevent contaminated water from being syphoned back from the hose used outside:)

I would also place the valve 3) before the washing machine valve 4) as the area is obviously prone to frost damage, so that all of the pipework can be isolated and drained in cold weather, maybe inconvenient for use but consider a washing machine hose will freeze and burst also, but turning it on and off according to usage wil not be that inconvenient compared to water damage due to a burst pipe;)

Also consider lagging!

Thanks.

I'll get one of the ones with a double check valve in then.

I'll speak to my wife about how she would feel about turning on the valve before using the machine each time - it's not in an incredibly accessible place, but if it has a 'knob' on it, rather than one you need a screwdriver to turn, then I'm sure it won't be a problem.

In the summer I am planning on insulating it inside somehow and then skimming/painting so the room should keep its warmth more. I was planning on sorting all of the pipework out at the same time but I think we will need the outside tap to work before then!

Cheers again.

cyclonebri1

As MrT says you need a double check valve as early in the system as possible to comply.

Too many joints? no, if done correctly they are as strong or even stronger than a solid pipe

Mr_Ted

sancho wrote: »

Thanks.

I'll get one of the ones with a double check valve in then.

I'll speak to my wife about how she would feel about turning on the valve before using the machine each time - it's not in an incredibly accessible place, but if it has a 'knob' on it, rather than one you need a screwdriver to turn, then I'm sure it won't be a problem.

In the summer I am planning on insulating it inside somehow and then skimming/painting so the room should keep its warmth more. I was planning on sorting all of the pipework out at the same time but I think we will need the outside tap to work before then!

Cheers again.

This will do the job for ease of operation: - http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?fh_search=15mm+full+flow+valves&fh_view_size=20 and will also give a better water flow than the usual ballofix valves:)
Just lag the pipes to help: - http://www.screwfix.com/p/economy-pipe-insulation-15mm-x-1m-pack-of-64/90694?_requestid=242251# like this but you will probably only need 1 length which will be cheaper from a shed;)

Ruski

And a drain offcock after the isolator to remove the water from the outside tap side - if you don't it's likely to freeze and burst again - do it once do it right

HTH

Russ

Mr_Ted

Ruski wrote: »

And a drain offcock after the isolator to remove the water from the outside tap side - if you don't it's likely to freeze and burst again - do it once do it right

HTH

Russ

:)Washing Machine valve would serve as that

Jonesya

Ruski wrote: »

And a drain offcock after the isolator to remove the water from the outside tap side - if you don't it's likely to freeze and burst again - do it once do it right

HTH

Russ

Yeah I was thinking the same, replace the elbow with a T and a drain valve?

sancho

Jonesya wrote: »

Yeah I was thinking the same, replace the elbow with a T and a drain valve?

That would be perfect actually as where the elbow will go is pretty easily accessible for draining (more so than undoing the washing machine hose)

Will look for one of those.

keystone

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

As MrT says you need a double check valve as early in the system as possible to comply.

But after the washing machine tee.

Too many joints? no, if done correctly they are as strong or even stronger than a solid pipe

But more expensive than using a pipe bender .

Cheers

sancho

keystone wrote: »

But after the washing machine tee.

But more expensive than using a pipe bender .

Cheers

If only I had one!

So isolation valve needs to go before washing machine tee still? Or would the drain valve negate that need?