Warm downstairs but freezing upstairs.

steppevos

Most radiator have a valve on both side: one tvr or adjustable valve and one under a cap. These second valves are to balance the central heating system and should normally not be turned, but in your case they maybe set to keep the upstairs cool. These valves can be adjusting with a screwdriver or a spanner (anti-clockwise will open them wider) after the cap is lifted off. They are used to balance the system:e.g. divert more or less flow to the specific radiator at a cost to all the others (never close these valves totally and it is recommended to never close them more than half).

Mr_Ted

Not necessarily so, or an accurate description

steppevos wrote: »

Most radiator have a valve on both side: one tvr or adjustable valve and one under a cap(known as a lock shield valve!). These second valves are to balance the central heating system and should normally not be turned, but in your case they maybe set to keep the upstairs cool. These valves can be adjusting with a screwdriver or a spanner (anti-clockwise will open them wider) after the cap is lifted off. They are used to balance the system:e.g. divert more or less flow to the specific radiator at a cost to all the others( not necessarily, they balance the flow to the radiators by restricting the flow out of them(or the contentious isssue if they are fitted on the inlet) which should not be at a cost to other radiators if the installation is designed and balanced correctly) (never close these valves totally(unless you want to actually shut the rad off) and it is recommended to never close them more than half)( they can be adjusted from minimum to maximum dependant on the amount of balancing required to suit the WHOLE system/radiators. Minimum is best once you have achieved sufficient output to the whole of the radiators as it then quickens the return reaching temperature back to the boiler thereby shutting the boiler off as the system is satisfied and thereby saving fuel!).

:money:

steppevos

valve under a cap(known as a lock shield valve!):
learned something there as a second language speaker.

Let me see if I can learn more from you

Mr_Ted wrote: »

( not necessarily, they balance the flow to the radiators by restricting the flow out of them(or the contentious isssue if they are fitted on the inlet)

I tought that it shouldn't make a difference if they are on the outlet or inlet of the radiatort. Isn't it all about how high the resistance of this radiator is compared to others? (because they should all be placed in parallel).

which should not be at a cost to other radiators if the installation is designed and balanced correctly) (never close these valves totally(unless you want to actually shut the rad off)

, but that people should do with the inlet valve?

and it is recommended to never close them more than half)( they can be adjusted from minimum to maximum dependant on the amount of balancing required to suit the WHOLE system/radiators.

I just wrote that because I have seen people trying to balance a system with opening the valves as little as possible, which causes a huge strain on the pump, but also makes it much harder to fine tune the system.
Am I right that if you would start from scratch that you would start with all the valves completely open?

Minimum is best once you have achieved sufficient output to the whole of the radiators as it then quickens the return reaching temperature back to the boiler thereby shutting the boiler off as the system is satisfied and thereby saving fuel!)

I assume you mean with 'minimum' shut the valves as little as possible? (I first read it as minimally open, which would mean a big strain on the pump because of the high resistance in the system.)
Thanks for helping me to understand this better (hopefully I am not hijacking the OP's thread ).

Mr_Ted

steppevos wrote: »

valve under a cap(known as a lock shield valve!):
learned something there as a second language speaker.

Let me see if I can learn more from you
I tought that it shouldn't make a difference if they are on the outlet or inlet of the radiatort. Isn't it all about how high the resistance of this radiator is compared to others? (because they should all be placed in parallel).
, but that people should do with the inlet valve?

Inlet or outlet is a contentious issue much debated on here, my background and training has always been LS on outlet only. Others disagree?
Water will naturally take the easiest route, and heat naturally wants to rise, so its more a matter, if there are difficulties with circultion, of encouraging it to places it doesnt want to go by restricting it in the place it goes to the easiest, which forces it elsewhere. Some installation dont need any balancing, others need fine tuning?

I just wrote that because I have seen people trying to balance a system with opening the valves as little as possible, which causes a huge strain on the pump, but also makes it much harder to fine tune the system.
Am I right that if you would start from scratch that you would start with all the valves completely open?

There shouldnt be a strain on the pump, anymore than if all the trv's where to shut down. A systems water is not pumped, it is circulated, and also these days there are bypasses to prevent excess or possible positive pressure build up.
Circuits are also loops so there is alway, or should always be a completed circuit for the water to flow, another reason why 1 rad should not have a trv fitted, be it bathroom or where the room stat is located.
My training for balancing was always to start witth all rads shut but circuits hot, then start by opening LS's one at a time slightly just allowing sufficient flow to heat the rad and starting from the rad nearest to the pump flow to the farthest, also as opening more returning to the previous to ensure no loss of heat/flow.

I assume you mean with 'minimum' shut the valves as little as possible? (I first read it as minimally open, which would mean a big strain on the pump because of the high resistance in the system.)
Thanks for helping me to understand this better (hopefully I am not hijacking the OP's thread ).

Minimally open, then increase if neccessay as more rads are adjusted, from all fully open and the whole system being hot it is difficult to assess any loss of flow?heat on individual rads due to residual heat.
There is no strain on the pump as previously stated.
It has to be considered that as long as the rad gets sufficient flow and to reach operational temperature then it is working efficiently, having a bigger flow than is neccessary is waste, also the quicker the return into the boiler reaches temperature the quicker it will shut off, and with minimal yet sufficient flow through rads the circuit heats faster and the return temp is satified quicker, from then onwards its just a matter of the boiler replenishing heat used.

I have no qualms in assisting with something that does not require a technical or legal qualification, although there will probably be other opinions for other reasons