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fully pumped vented system
wrightk
Posts: 975 Forumite
evening all. after all the struggles ive had, weve had a complete repipe of our charnwood stove. all the radiators actually work! ive noticed some really big changes since the pipe work has been done and wondered if they are normal?
cant get the stove above 350f (not that id want to) but i have to really drive it to get it up to temp. thats with all the vents open. It sits around just under 300-300f a lot of the time
Im using smokeless. used to get a lot hotter on the old system. Would it be because a lot of the heat is being distributed to the rads instead of the old system.
Im thinking of changing to logs either next year or the year after. I understand about all the seasoning, storing etc however what should i do about the firebox? I have a riddle type grate with a vent underneath it. do i take the grate out? how do i control the fire with only the top vent when the grate vent is also linked to the back boiler temp?
Lots of questions
cant get the stove above 350f (not that id want to) but i have to really drive it to get it up to temp. thats with all the vents open. It sits around just under 300-300f a lot of the time
Im using smokeless. used to get a lot hotter on the old system. Would it be because a lot of the heat is being distributed to the rads instead of the old system.
Im thinking of changing to logs either next year or the year after. I understand about all the seasoning, storing etc however what should i do about the firebox? I have a riddle type grate with a vent underneath it. do i take the grate out? how do i control the fire with only the top vent when the grate vent is also linked to the back boiler temp?
Lots of questions
Even a stopped clock tells the right time twice a day, and for once I'm inclined to believe Withnail is right. We are indeed drifting into the arena of the unwell.
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Comments
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Is it a multi fuel you have wright ? if you have a riddle grate close it up and let the ash build up on it if you want to burn wood on it.
Quite a few reasons why you cant get above 350 - fuel - air flow - chimney / flue draught. Just loaded mine up - a quick look at the temp and she's ticking away nicely at 400 she'll be like that for a good hour n half now till next load goes on before bed, mainly all extremely dry hardwood furniture off cuts from a local supplier.You may click thanks if you found my advice useful0 -
I just had a downdraft cowl fitted too. Don't know whether that might have affected it?Even a stopped clock tells the right time twice a day, and for once I'm inclined to believe Withnail is right. We are indeed drifting into the arena of the unwell.0
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evening all. after all the struggles ive had, weve had a complete repipe of our charnwood stove. all the radiators actually work! ive noticed some really big changes since the pipe work has been done and wondered if they are normal?
cant get the stove above 350f (not that id want to) but i have to really drive it to get it up to temp. thats with all the vents open. It sits around just under 300-300f a lot of the time
Im using smokeless. used to get a lot hotter on the old system. Would it be because a lot of the heat is being distributed to the rads instead of the old system.
Im thinking of changing to logs either next year or the year after. I understand about all the seasoning, storing etc however what should i do about the firebox? I have a riddle type grate with a vent underneath it. do i take the grate out? how do i control the fire with only the top vent when the grate vent is also linked to the back boiler temp?
Lots of questions
Seems likely that it's due to the added load from the radiators. Never mind the stove temperature, are the radiators running at a sensible temperature i.e. hot but not scaldingly so?0
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