Replace old central heating timer with new?

Seronera

poppellerant wrote: »

I hope it's better than Siemen's room thermostats. I have one like this and it only comes on 1c below your set temperature and heats the room up 1c above the set temperature before turning off.

There is something wrong there. I've put in quite a few of those and they all work fine. They should be calling for heat until the set temperature is reached... Then they switch off. Most stats have a fallback feature so they wait until it's dropped a couple of degrees before coming on again. This is to prevent on/off/on/off cycling of the boiler

EssexExile

Seronera wrote: »

There is something wrong there. I've put in quite a few of those and they all work fine. They should be calling for heat until the set temperature is reached... Then they switch off. Most stats have a fallback feature so they wait until it's dropped a couple of degrees before coming on again. This is to prevent on/off/on/off cycling of the boiler

The problem I've found is that the "couple of degrees" it has to drop is too much. Sitting in the room at 20 with warm radiators all around is pleasant. By the time it gets to 18 with cold metal surrounding you it feels cold.

Owain_Moneysaver

mkb2014 wrote: »

Hi there

I'm hoping it's OK to sneak into this thread... My pops has this timer currently but it's no good as it only has two on/off settings and he wants to replace with a digital one with more settings, is this possible? Would it be a DIY job do you think?

Check what make/model number the existing timer is, then get one that fits the same backplate.

Glad23

Hi , I read this thread and I'm having a similar problem with my thermostatic controller . It's broken . Any advice on fixing this ? .

Le_Kirk

What make and model is your controller please?

tiketyboo

I have a Danfoss 103E5 timeswitch installed. I was away from home recently and when I came back it looks like there has been a power cut. There was no display on the screen apart from the static two-dots of the colon between the numbers. I did a system reset which went fine, all the programs are still there. However, the switch does everything apart from turning the central heating on. The cursor refuses to go to the ON position. I adjusted the thermostat up but still no good. I am coming to the conclusion that I need a new switch so any professional advice would be appreciated. To be honest, I was never overly impressed with the 103E5, it never kept the time accurately, and could lose about 5 minutes a day.

tiketyboo

Hi Cameltoe, thanks for replying, unfortunately the colon is definitely flashing. I can get the cursor to move to AUTO and ALLDAY but not to ON. When I leave it on AUTO and wait for the Program to come on, nothing happens. When I press the +1HR button, nothing happens.

Lauramb_2

I have a similar problem to that of the original poster, the main exception being that the timer doesn't seem to work - it's an old rotary type which has the pins but the timer doesn't seem to turn around. We've never needed the timer before but as we're off on holiday soon I wanted to switch it over so the house sitter doesn't need to worry about it.
Does anyone know if it would be easily replaceable? I'd love to get it fixed and ready for when we go.
It's a black towerchron and also has Grasslin on the timer part. It has separate switches for HW & CH - off, timer and on.
Its probably as old as the house, c1985-90. I tried to post a photo but it wouldn't let me!

Le_Kirk

I would suspect that the synchronous motor has failed. You might be lucky and be able to source a replacement but it seems like time to replace the whole unit. There are still Grasslin timers available but they seem to be modern "state-of-the-art" types. If you can find a newer type qu1 or qe2 for example, it should fit on the existing back plate, although I haven't checked into it thoroughly.

Rcrob

Hi all, sorry for hijacking again!

Again very similar to OP, but we have a honeywell st699 I believe, we are planning on replacing the boiler (ancient baxi solo) with a new combi at some point next year, but would like to be able to set HW and CH separately for now.

I have found out that the backplate for this one is specific, is it just a case of trying to find a replacement that uses the same number of wires?

I am not bad with diy, but as othersoon have said, I'm not qualified.

Thanks in advance for any help, this post has already been usefull!