Garage conversion that's cold.

explumber

may i ask, what is the size of radiator fitted in the bedroom. the width and the height. is it a single radiator or double. are the flow and return pipes to the radiator run below the suspended floor. if so, have they been sleeved with pipe lagging.

Johnandabby

teneighty wrote: »

I think mistral001 hit on the answer but suspect got a bit overlooked.

As stated, by having all the insulation on the inside the structure has no thermal mass so you are just heating up the air in the room. Once that warm air leaks out you have to heat it all over again. So either you have modern airtight construction as the building regulations are moving towards or you have constant low level background heating.

I do not think adding more insulation will help and certainly not filling the cavity between the drylining and the 4" brick wall, that will just cause far more problems.

Thermal mass is very important as noted above, particularly with all of the external elements. It's going to feel colder than the rest of the house, particularly if the thermostat is turning off the heating in the house before this room is getting warm. Always difficult with 1 heating system and two different construction types.

Another way would be to use fan convectors (radiators with fans) in order to warm up the room quicker. However, will still get cold once the heating is turned off.

A third option is to move the heating thermostat into that room, and then lower the TRVs within the rest of the house - that would keep the heating on for longer in the bedroom.

mr_lordi

explumber wrote: »

may i ask, what is the size of radiator fitted in the bedroom. the width and the height. is it a single radiator or double. are the flow and return pipes to the radiator run below the suspended floor. if so, have they been sleeved with pipe lagging.

Hi,the bedroom is approximately 4 and half meters long by 3m and 2 and half meters high. The rad is a double and is 1 and a half by about 1m. The piping is done in plastic under the floor,above floor level converting to copper.

mr_lordi

the_r_sole wrote: »

People need to understand the difference between a cavity wall in masonry construction and in a timber framed one (which is effectively what you have)
one is ok to fill the cavity with insulation (some times) and the other will mean that a mortgage will be refused or a retention put on it until the stuff is removed... :money:
but i guess you know better....

With respect I'm no builder or plumbing engineer (that's why I'm on here asking questions) so to correct your last quote I don't know any better. Sorry if that upsets you.

mr_lordi

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Given what you've added you've already got the issue with the floor sorted, they are almost always done this way as I mentioned due to height difference:T:T

What width cavity do you have between the outer skin and the celotex etc, there is a min of I think 50mm for injected ins to be possible, plus you really need to ensure a correct material is injected if you can go that way.

Can you still get into the loft space?
What is the thickness of celotex used on the ceiling?

If you can get up there do so and add as much extra rockwool or similar as possible retaining the breathing function of the "loft".

Look as there seems to be some doubt as to whether this was done under building regs or not, you really need to satisfy yourself that the void above is vented correctly or you are going to have massive problems later with water vapour up there ;)

Still only 2 options, more insulation or more heat input

Hi, not sure what the thickness is between the outer wall and inner skin and to be honest I have been put off that idea from previous posts so I think more heat is the way to go. The roof space unfortunately is no longer accessible. This conversion was completed under building regs so should have been constructed properly. Would you mind being a little more specific with your comments about adequate ventilation and what I should have a look for to see if it is adequate . Many thanks again for your comments.

explumber

the size of radiator is fine. although i think you may have gained better heat distibution through the room by using 2 single radiators at opposite ends of the room. i appreciate that does not always tie in with where you will want to site your furniture.
one little thing to try. on the lockshield of your radiator. pull the plastic cap off. turn the spindle anti clockwise and check to see wether this is fully open. if it is fully open, you need to turn it clockwise until it is shut. once shut, you then need to reopen it by only about a half of a turn. this will help the radiator retain its heat for longer, by slowing the flow through the radiator. rather than the hot water just running back to the boiler on the return.

cyclonebri1

The problem with any single skin wall be it 4" brick or 9" solid is that thermal mass works both ways and the greater input is from the cold outside, it usually wins.

Walls like that if you want modern heating standards have to be insulated from the cold by insulation to the inside

You simply will not be able to afford to use such walls as a thermal mass.

Comment about not getting a mortgage seem pretty irrelevant here, the op doesn't seem to have BR permit or at least they have shied from saying yes or no No one will ever know the construction of those walls once complete.

Given you have an issue and the room is too cold to be comfortable, and the fact that it is a good size, I stand by what I've said, another studding to the inside with poly ins to save costs.
Then "manage" the heat loss through air change.

Remember, you will be paying for the extra heating forever, the insulation only once.;)