Garage conversion that's cold.

mr_lordi

Meadows wrote: »

I assume that as you have single skin walls, they have had small cavity created on the inside with batons and then filled with insulation and plasterboard across the front of these?

That is correct.

mr_lordi

Ok, thanks for all your replies they have been most helpful. The roof originally was a flat roof which they went over with a pitched roof, under the the flat roof king span was added. All the walls except the house wall has added king span and the floor originally concrete has been raised with timbers and floor boarded, this too has king span. I honestly don't think they could have done anymore with the insulation. I have nt added that there is also a small utility room in there that does have an external door at the rear of our house, which is wooden so perhaps cold is getting through that way and I should look at replacing with plastic. As I have said without having the heating on all day this room does get really cold which I suppose I'll have to get used to but I was just trying to find any extra ideas to try warm it up. A chap at work suggested getting log burner which may throw a bit of heat through from the lounge. I guess I'm just a little disappointed that its that cold in there and was looking for alternative answers. Every comment is much appreciated.

mr_lordi

diywhynot wrote: »

Does this conversion meet Building Regs? If it does it shouldn't be the coldest room in the house. How are you heating it?

One radiator in the bedroom and one towel rail in the en suite.

PHickman

If the single radiator in the new bedroom is linked to the current heating system then one presumes this is controlled by the existing single thermostat presumably in the living room. Once the living room is heated to the set temp the total heating system will turn off. Maybe turn down each of the radiator individual knobs (on the bottom of the radiator) in the living room giving the other rooms a chance to heat up before the central heating turns off?

As an alternative, underfloor heating will provide you with a seperate "thermostat" control just for the new bedroom, another cost though.

Replace with a double radiator in the new bedroom?

System

mr_lordi wrote: »

Why not? Single skin of brickwork with internal stoothing and king span on the inside creates a cavity.

ok then, get yourself some cavity wall insulation in there - enjoy your cold and damp conversion after that!

mr_lordi

the_r_sole wrote: »

ok then, get yourself some cavity wall insulation in there - enjoy your cold and damp conversion after that!

Not really sure how that post helps? Thanks anyway.

mr_lordi

PHickman wrote: »

If the single radiator in the new bedroom is linked to the current heating system then one presumes this is controlled by the existing single thermostat presumably in the living room. Once the living room is heated to the set temp the total heating system will turn off. Maybe turn down each of the radiator individual knobs (on the bottom of the radiator) in the living room giving the other rooms a chance to heat up before the central heating turns off?

As an alternative, underfloor heating will provide you with a seperate "thermostat" control just for the new bedroom, another cost though.

Replace with a double radiator in the new bedroom?

Thanks will try that with the rads.

cyclonebri1

Given what you've added you've already got the issue with the floor sorted, they are almost always done this way as I mentioned due to height difference:T:T

What width cavity do you have between the outer skin and the celotex etc, there is a min of I think 50mm for injected ins to be possible, plus you really need to ensure a correct material is injected if you can go that way.

Can you still get into the loft space?
What is the thickness of celotex used on the ceiling?

If you can get up there do so and add as much extra rockwool or similar as possible retaining the breathing function of the "loft".

Look as there seems to be some doubt as to whether this was done under building regs or not, you really need to satisfy yourself that the void above is vented correctly or you are going to have massive problems later with water vapour up there ;)

Still only 2 options, more insulation or more heat input

System

mr_lordi wrote: »

Not really sure how that post helps? Thanks anyway.

People need to understand the difference between a cavity wall in masonry construction and in a timber framed one (which is effectively what you have)
one is ok to fill the cavity with insulation (some times) and the other will mean that a mortgage will be refused or a retention put on it until the stuff is removed... :money:
but i guess you know better....

teneighty

I think mistral001 hit on the answer but suspect got a bit overlooked.

As stated, by having all the insulation on the inside the structure has no thermal mass so you are just heating up the air in the room. Once that warm air leaks out you have to heat it all over again. So either you have modern airtight construction as the building regulations are moving towards or you have constant low level background heating.

I do not think adding more insulation will help and certainly not filling the cavity between the drylining and the 4" brick wall, that will just cause far more problems.