Routing worktop drainage grooves problem

mariat

I am re-doing my kitchen on a very tight budget, and am doing all the work myself. I have a Belfast sink under a hardwood worktop, and need to router the drainage grooves, for which I have bought a jig. The problem is that the router bit/cutter I have will not reach down through the jig to the worktop, as the shank is too short. I have searched online for a bit with a rounded end and a longer shank but can't find one. The only ones I can find with a longer shank are straight cutters. My router has a 1/4 inch collet. As I will probably never use the cutter again I don't want to spend much on it. There must be a solution to this but for the life of me I can't find it. Please help.

leveller2911

Try the site below and the cutter in the link. The cutter has a bearing guide so if you find it won't go deep enough when the cutter is fitted safely into the router just get a straight piece of thin timber or 12mm mdf and run the router along side the straight edge.To get the grooves to be deeper nearer the sink you will need to make up a small jig(screw a packer under the opposite end of the sink, this will raise the jig/template up at one end and as you router down the straight edge the grooves will get deeper.

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Core_Box___guided_697.html

Remember when routering to push the router in the opposite direction that the cutter is revolving , if you don't you could loose control and the cutter will dig in and move away from the straight edge/jig.As an example if your routering a drainer on the R/H side of the sink push the router from left to right.

In all honesty if your not confortable using a router I would pay a chippy/kitchen fitter to fit the worktops.If you get it wrong you have wasted all the money you spent on the worktops for the sake of a few quid.

Giod luck, may even be some good clips on youtube (plenty of bad ones too)..

mariat

Thanks so much for the advice and the link. As I mentioned, I have a drainer groove jig, ramped at one end to allow for the slope needed. I also have a 30mm guide bush. I'm not sure if the cutter you recommend could be used with this set up, but they also do a range of cove box cutters. I'll have to compare those with the one I already have, see if the shanks are longer.

Ps. I have already routered the drip groove on the underside with no problems, so I think I can manage the drainer grooves OK as long as I can get the cutter sorted.

leveller2911

mariat wrote: »

Thanks so much for the advice and the link. As I mentioned, I have a drainer groove jig, ramped at one end to allow for the slope needed. I also have a 30mm guide bush. I'm not sure if the cutter you recommend could be used with this set up, but they also do a range of cove box cutters. I'll have to compare those with the one I already have, see if the shanks are longer.

Ps. I have already routered the drip groove on the underside with no problems, so I think I can manage the drainer grooves OK as long as I can get the cutter sorted.

It can be used with the drainer jig as its the guide bush that limits the width of cut.What thickness is the jig?. Most cutters have a mark on the shank showing how far to insert the cutter into the collet for safe working.

Have a look here too
http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/C053AX1_4TC/3/124/radius_50mm_radius_x_18mm_diameter.html


http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/productlist/3/124/radius_and_cavetto.html

mariat

The thickest part of the jig is about 17mm. I had a look at the trend site and the cutter they recommend for a jig has a 1/2 collet. I didn't think this would be such a problem. Why do they not just make these cutters with a longer shank? That would solve it.

leveller2911

mariat wrote: »

The thickest part of the jig is about 17mm. I had a look at the trend site and the cutter they recommend for a jig has a 1/2 collet. I didn't think this would be such a problem. Why do they not just make these cutters with a longer shank? That would solve it.

They don't make 1/4" shanks any longer because they wouldn't be stable, they would vibrate and literally fall apart.Thats one of the reasons they mark each cutter with a line/arrow so its safe when inserted to that depth in the collet.

I have a 1/2 " shanked cutter that is 130mm long it needs to be 1/2 " shank to put up with the vibration when cutting deep,up to 75mm deep.

You can hire a Router with a 1/2" collet.......

mariat

Yes, reading more about all this I understand about the 1/4 v 1/2 collets. So, am I looking for a bit with a deeper cutter, rather than a longer shaft?

leveller2911

mariat wrote: »

Yes, reading more about all this I understand about the 1/4 v 1/2 collets. So, am I looking for a bit with a deeper cutter, rather than a longer shaft?

You won't really know the max depth of cut until you actually see the cutter 1st hand.You can gain a few millimetres by not putting the cutter into the collet right up to the mark but the less of the cutter in the collet means its got less purchase and grip on the cutter.

Most 1/2" shank cutters would have enough depth for the drainer jig.With a 1/2" router you get more power ,its only really when you get the larger panel raising cutters etc that you need the power but depth wise its down to cutter length with regards to vibration.1/4" cutters will vibrate more so tend to be shallower cutting capacity.

Wealden tools and Trend are good companies to deal with, try giving Wealden a ring as they are always very helpful and a bit cheaper than Trend generally.

mariat

Will do, thanks for being so helpful.:beer: