How to repair lacquer on table??

Jonesya

MrTyo wrote: »

Personally i would just strip it using fine wire wool and meths/stripper dependant on finish....

NO!!! The general advice is to avoid wirewool on oak as the acidity of the oak will cause any small fragments of wirewool to rust and discolour the wood.

G42

To get the best finish it should be stripped because if you don't, when you recoat it, you're likely to see the damaged parts with a different colour due to them having less coating on them. I would use a paint/varnish stripper then Wet and Dry paper, used wet.

Having said that, if the original varnish/lacquer is thin, which it's quite likely to be, then you might be able to just sand it off with W&D, but it should all be rubbed off to get the best finish when you recoat it.

When you're sanding, always rub in line with the wood grain.

MrTyo

Jonesya is quite right, yes the tannic acid in oak does cause metal to rust and can discolour wood. If you look at peroid oak furnitue around hasps etc you will notice quite often they are black, which is a combination of the metal reaction, dirt accumulation, wax build up etc, which i personally prefer as part of the patina, however i digress.

As mentioned before I personally would still do it how i said. We are talking about a flat table top, not complicated mouldings that small fibres from the wool could get trapped in. Once stripped off a light sand and clean from there will in my experience not have any negative effect on the oak and will remove traces from the grain etc. I do apologise for not giving a slighlty more detailed walkthrough at the time, i have not quite been in the best explanatory mode recently, so will give a bit better explanation to the OP. Part of my reasoning is that sometimes people can bombard others with info that makes them feel daunted about trying something so they opt to take the easy way and pay someone so i tried to keep it brief.

I used to restore antique furniture for a living and my employers would quote high when some people approached them with this sort of job (to put them off) as it was a modern table, and doesnt take particular skill to do. As this is a MS board and looking at the OPs signature they are doing well with the money side so why blow it on something quite basic.

If you have never done anything like this before, then just be aware it can be a bit messy/dusty whichever way you decide to do it. If you can take the table outside in a well ventillated area then great, if you cant then dust sheets are your friend. If using chemicals again health and safety wins, gloves fresh air etc! Paint stripper is harsh stuff so you dont want to spill it on you or anything you dont want to keep

As mentioned you have a variety of options, if you are going to sand the top layer off then as G42 rightly said always sand with the grain.

If you are going to use a liquid/chemical stripper then i would tape up the edges of the table, that way if you get a run off at the end you can quickly wipe it off without it removing the finish from the rest of the table. Whichever abrasive material you wish to use with the <insert chemical of choice> whether its wire wool, or substitute to avoid the tannic acid risk (such as the brillo style pads-which come in different grades) Then again remove it in the direction of the grain. Never saturate the table, you want to put on enough to remove the finish, not drown drown the table, i would practice on a small part first so you get the hang on how much you need etc.

Be aware if you use something like paint stripper to remove the finish then you will have to neutralise it afterwards with something like a light cleaning with meths over the table top.

Chances are if you have chemically removed it then there might be light traces\residue left on table so i would give it a light sanding with fine paper (again in direction of grain). You then need to insure that it is dust free before you try to apply your finish. Do not use a damp rag (with water) for this, as this will raise the grain slightly and will undo your hard work sanding. a rag with some meths on would work, as this doesnt have the same effect, or you could hoover it, use a tack rag, whatever you prefer just ensure it is dust free.

Whichever finish you go for i would just follow the advice on that as there are to many to describe. There are other things you could use such as sanding sealers etc, but i cant see the point in giving you too much to worry about.

dodders

I'd endorse MrTyo method but definately go for the Scotbrite nylon type pads if you are going to strip the top yourself.
Just saves the hassle if the oak does react with the wire wool.
From a serving furniture restorer!