New Electrical Socket Installation

Roundabouts

VSynth wrote: »

Fitting a wire between the faceplate and back box is not a requirement of the regulations but is considered good practise.

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Thanks, presumably this is in reference to light switches only rather than electric sockets? This metal socket was already installed when I moved into the house. So there'd be no need for an additional earth wire from the mounting box to the metal faceplate then?

DevCoder

It applies to any metal fascia and backbox, light and sockets both.

I always fit a fly lead from socket to backbox, even though the screw going through a fixed lug in the backbox should provide the same protection.

Roundabouts

krisdorey wrote: »

It applies to any metal fascia and backbox, light and sockets both.

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Ok thanks. I assumed that as the earth wires go to the socket earth terminal and hence the metal fascia directly (as in the picture) then it wouldn't need any additional wiring. Whoever fitted that one obviously made a mistake? I'll have to attach one then.

Roundabouts

Hi, an update and more advice needed needed please! I've done the sockets as outlined previously. Now I've come across one which is on an internal plasterboard partition wall



Again I need a deeper mounting box fitted. When the old mounting box is removed I'm left with this:



As you can see there's a wooden batten to which the mounting box was attached. I believe this batten is attached to the studs in the partition wall. Any ideas as to how I go about fixing a deeper mounting box without demolishing the wall? Many thanks.

fluffpot

Is the existing hole too big for a plasterboard box? If not then remove the batten - you'll need to cut it slightly more than the width of the hole - and fit a plasterboard box.

Otherwise you'll have to drill out the batten with say a 20mm wood bit until it's reduced enough in depth to fit the 35mm metal box - but this may make it a bit unstable....

Roundabouts

fluffpot wrote: »

Is the existing hole too big for a plasterboard box? If not then remove the batten - you'll need to cut it slightly more than the width of the hole - and fit a plasterboard box.

Hi, thanks. I do have a plasterboard box, I haven't checked it with the size of the hole yet as I was hoping to stick with the metal boxes as I thought that they were a bit more sturdy.

fluffpot wrote: »

Otherwise you'll have to drill out the batten with say a 20mm wood bit until it's reduced enough in depth to fit the 35mm metal box - but this may make it a bit unstable....

Good idea, I hadn't thought of that. But I've no way of knowing how thick the batten is.I suppose if it were quite thick I could drill 10mm into it without weakening it. I wonder what size of batten is generally used or how to find out how think it is?

Kernel_Sanders

baldelectrician wrote: »

Informed the letting agent of the problem (legally we can't disconnect dodgy electrics)

Was surprised to learn of this. Maybe you meant to say you can't compel a householder to allow disconnection, but you can with their agreement?
(By 'disconnection', I'm thinking about the simple removal of the main fuse in the meter box.)

Leif

Roundabouts wrote: »

But I've no way of knowing how thick the batten is.I suppose if it were quite thick I could drill 10mm into it without weakening it. I wonder what size of batten is generally used or how to find out how think it is?

Just stick your finger underneath and feel how thick it is. Or, slide a metal ruler under the batten until it reaches the back, using a finger as a stop, then read off the thickness.

fluffpot

its probably a bit of 2 by 1 (inches! that is)