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Need to fix/replace floorboard
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KaratePigeon
Posts: 295 Forumite


Hello,
Since we moved into our house the flooring in our daughter's room has had areas which are sunken on sink a bit when you stand on them. We need a new carpet so thought we'd fix the floor while the old one was up.
The floorboards underneath are like chipboard stuff, just laid in a random pattern (is that normal?) and one large piece in particular has crumbled around the edges and where the screws have been driven through it.
Pic here:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b52/jo_c_smith/IMG_4790_zpse07f35ce.jpg
Since we are rubbish at DIY and don't have many tools is it something we can fix ourselves? Is it just a case of getting a bit of wood the right size and screwing it down - if so what kind of wood would we need, is it standard flooring stuff?
Thanks
Since we moved into our house the flooring in our daughter's room has had areas which are sunken on sink a bit when you stand on them. We need a new carpet so thought we'd fix the floor while the old one was up.
The floorboards underneath are like chipboard stuff, just laid in a random pattern (is that normal?) and one large piece in particular has crumbled around the edges and where the screws have been driven through it.
Pic here:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b52/jo_c_smith/IMG_4790_zpse07f35ce.jpg
Since we are rubbish at DIY and don't have many tools is it something we can fix ourselves? Is it just a case of getting a bit of wood the right size and screwing it down - if so what kind of wood would we need, is it standard flooring stuff?
Thanks
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Comments
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the best way to change the whole room into a playwood 18mm.because that chipboard all the time strident especially if it is nailed with nails:rotfl:0
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Can I just replace that piece with plywood then? not sure I can afford or have the time to do the whole room! is it just normal plywood from wickes or similar?0
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Either 18mm ply or chipboard - problem I would bet you have is it sags when you walk on it where it is not supported - hence you will probably need to fit additional timber to 'join' the new timber to old where it is not supported by a joist.
HTH
RussPerfection takes time: don't expect miracles in a day0 -
The floor was not originally laid like that. It has been taken up for something like plumbing or electrical alterations and has been put back in a very slapdash way.
I suggest that you buy a new section of flooring grade chipboard and cut this to replace the larger of the damaged boards. You will need to get some 4"x2" sawn timber to make "noggins" ; these are timbers to go at 90 degrees to the joists to support the edges of the new chipboard and existing cut boards. Screw or nail the noggins to the joists.
If I am not being very clear ( I know it can be confusing on jobs you have not tackled ) please let me know and I will try to explain further.Forgotten but not gone.0 -
Thanks Tony, we will have a go. Just looked at the wickes website, the flooring chipboard seems to be tongue and groove, is it ok to use that (I guess I'd just cut off the edges if we had nothing to join them too). Is it easy enough to cut with a manual saw?
how do i attach the noggins to the joists, is it just getting the screws through at an angle? (how do i make sure this is secure enough as I'd be worried it'd come loose and we'd have a bit of heavy timber floating around in there!)0 -
KaratePigeon wrote: »Thanks Tony, we will have a go. Just looked at the wickes website, the flooring chipboard seems to be tongue and groove, is it ok to use that (I guess I'd just cut off the edges if we had nothing to join them too). Is it easy enough to cut with a manual saw?
yes its fairly easy to cut the groove/tongue off, well I found it a little bit fiddly as it crumbles slightly, but no biggie
how do i attach the noggins to the joists, is it just getting the screws through at an angle? (how do i make sure this is secure enough as I'd be worried it'd come loose and we'd have a bit of heavy timber floating around in there!)
yes at an angle, and you would feel it coming loose and know to replace but in a bedroom its not going to get that much wear and tear so would be years before it 'broke'
if your short of money, try the big sheds and look for a damaged piece and ask for a reduction in price. B and Q did a great deal for us on the massive amount I needed for the attic to be boarded out. and some were damaged (didnt care cos its for storage) and got half price on the damaged ones., they did the same for plasterboard if that helps anyone:)63 mortgage payments to go.
Zero wins 2016 😥0 -
TBH the damage doesn't look too bad - as long as those damaged areas aren't too large or "floating" away from a joist, I would consider just laying hardboard over the whole floor.0
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KaratePigeon wrote: »Thanks Tony, we will have a go. Just looked at the wickes website, the flooring chipboard seems to be tongue and groove, is it ok to use that (I guess I'd just cut off the edges if we had nothing to join them too). Is it easy enough to cut with a manual saw?
how do i attach the noggins to the joists, is it just getting the screws through at an angle? (how do i make sure this is secure enough as I'd be worried it'd come loose and we'd have a bit of heavy timber floating around in there!)
It helps to drill angled pilot holes for the screws otherwise you might split the noggins ; it also gives the screws a path to follow. Suggest at least 75mm x 4mm screws. Put two each side of the ends of the noggins - it helps if someone is holding the noggin firmly in place whilst you drive them in. The screws will not work loose and will be permanent.
Covering with hardboard will not stop the deflection (sinking) on the patched area - you have some unsupported board edges and this is why you should fit the noggins.Forgotten but not gone.0 -
Hello karatepidgeon, what you have down is wayrock (not sure of the spelling) it is a type of chipboard. as stated earlier it has been cut and bodged to accomadate pipework,electrics. I would be tempted to unscrew the offending piece and lift it,examine the joists underneath and just replace it with like for like.
two things to do- make a plan if there are pipes,cables underneath so that you do not put a screw thru them also put some silicone under the spot where the wood meets the joists and around the joints,this will stop it squeiking when you walk on it.0
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