nut wrench

Wig

Theres no need for any of these purpose built purchased designs of whatever quality....
Use the one that comes in the boot of your car and slide a bit of pipe over it if you need to. You find bits of pipe free of charge.

I sometimes just stamp on the small arm alone (skivenov post #16) but as you get older sometimes a less stressful/less agile approach is preferred a pipe over the arm adds a few seconds but it it is very easy to undo them.
Need more force? Get a longer pipe.

red_eye

Flying-High wrote: »

Ive battered Noname Ebay Extandables.... Ok I've used Scaffold bar on Agri stuff.... Bendage yes but breakage no.... Forget the pretty plastic sleeve handle....

it will get its own back when the metal fatigues from all the flexing

TrickyWicky

arcon5 wrote: »

Or invest in a decent torque wrench for about £30 on eBay.

:eek: Torque wrenches are for tightening things to a precise torque. They are not designed for undoing things and can with many of them, damage the mechanism and calibration. You just don't do it. A drill has a purpose, a welder has a purpose, yet you don't use a welder to saw through a plank of wood and you don't use a drill to weld your car back together. Why on earth do you want to take a precision instrument and use it for a purpose it was not designed for and then risk permanently damaging it?

Torque wrenches aren't cheap. They're expensive and frankly, frail enough as it is so the last thing you do is expose it to extra damage on purpose. Sorry arcon but anyone who recommends using a torque wrench for undoing stuff is an idiot.

red_eye wrote: »

why not stand on the beaker bar? or rotate the wheel clockwise with the bar arms length and quickly jolt it anti clockwise

I have stood on the breaker bar plenty of times however sometimes you may come across one that even that won't shift (such as a hub nut for instance). At that point, it's better to use the cars weight against itself and lift the breaker bar end with a jack - the cars weight (being more than yours) will apply the opposite force of the jack and eventually (may take a few seconds) it'll give way and come undone.

Flying-High_2

red_eye wrote: »

it will get its own back when the metal fatigues from all the flexing

Maybe... but I'll happily punt it up against all that !!!!! Sealey stuff the so called "half" pros use.... :rotfl:Done 5 Wheel swaps on a JD 2850 Tractor upto now in mixed scenarios..... .....Slight bendage but no breakages.....

red_eye

TrickyWicky wrote: »

:eek: Torque wrenches are for tightening things to a precise torque. They are not designed for undoing things and can with many of them, damage the mechanism and calibration. You just don't do it. A drill has a purpose, a welder has a purpose, yet you don't use a welder to saw through a plank of wood and you don't use a drill to weld your car back together. Why on earth do you want to take a precision instrument and use it for a purpose it was not designed for and then risk permanently damaging it?

Torque wrenches aren't cheap. They're expensive and frankly, frail enough as it is so the last thing you do is expose it to extra damage on purpose. Sorry arcon but anyone who recommends using a torque wrench for undoing stuff is an idiot.



I have stood on the breaker bar plenty of times however sometimes you may come across one that even that won't shift (such as a hub nut for instance). At that point, it's better to use the cars weight against itself and lift the breaker bar end with a jack - the cars weight (being more than yours) will apply the opposite force of the jack and eventually (may take a few seconds) it'll give way and come undone.

you'll hurt your self when the knuckle lets go

TrickyWicky

red_eye wrote: »

you'll hurt your self when the knuckle lets go

Nope, done it several times.