Painting MDF

nickj_2

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Yes to everything you have said.

Almost all paints and primers are water based today, if you by an audi it's done in water based paint, all to do with the environment and precious little to do with making a better paint.

A personally avoid water based stuff whenever possible, but it does have the advantage of being quicker drying in general.;)

we are light years behind other countries in water based paint technology , some of the stuff out now is much superior to solvent based paints interms of durability .
i have painted a house for a customer where the south facing windows would only last about 3-4 years with dulux weathershield paint system , i painted it bedec multi surface paint 4 years ago and it is still in tip top condition , even the window sills which were in black, have not blistered , cracked or peeled - bedec have just introduced a new w/b u/c and gloss and satin paint which looks great and is about half the price of dulux ecosure paint ,
also w/b paints are much quickerto prepare and repaint than solvent based as they do not go brittle so much when exposed to the sun

cyclonebri1

jcb208 wrote: »

Water based primer or even emulsion will be fine been using water based on MDF since the horrid stuff came out and never causes a problem

Yes certainly a "dumbed" down product in my view, and no, I don't want to bring back lead based paint;);)

I know I'm going off topic but when it gets to water based fence treatment and preservatives, it really is a case of the product being watered down in effect to make it more PC.

cyclonebri1

nickj wrote: »

we are light years behind other countries in water based paint technology , some of the stuff out now is much superior to solvent based paints interms of durability .

Do you mean light years ahead, or are you saying buy imported paint??

nickj_2

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Do you mean light years ahead, or are you saying buy imported paint??

there are a few excellent paints , bedec is a uk company , their hq is only a few units on a farm about 1/2 from where i live . also another paint i use is by a company called eico which is made in iceland which is nice to use and lasts a long time and i've also used some stuff made by beckers which is sweedish . i have a friend who helps me from time to time , he spent a few years painting in austrailia and he told me that he hardly used solvent based paints at all there ,

cyclonebri1

Hmmm, I just follow advice about specific stuff I need, they all seem to still be advising stuff that is solvent based. Sikkens filter 7 was the last specialist finish I bought, seems excellent so far.

I do have one specific hate though and that is some of the stuff ronseal churn out, the water based stuff that has an ultra violet cast to it, and unfortunately any less than perfect areas stay a milky blue, not good for a clear lacquer.

leveller2911

As a Joiner I have major concerns over water based primers/basecoats.The problem being solvent based primers penetrate the timber whereas waterbased basecoat/primers sit on the top and this is not good.I would also mention most decorators will start their outside painting work around March/April through to October/November but with the planned ban on solvent based paints in 2015 will reduce the time they have for outside work.All the time we have moist/dew mornings and afternoons painting waterbased will be a no,no .The season for outside work will be reduced by a couple of months.

I would imagine other countries are "way ahead" of us with regards to waterbased is because they have a different climate, Australia being one and most of the States,Spain and Italy.

Personally I like Architectural Solignum (Solvent based) and Sikkens HLS with top coat of Filter 7.. Dulux weathershield use to be very good.

I keep meaning to look into Bedec Nickj

Leif

I tried various water based paints and couldn't get on with them. The Ronseal was the best, thick and tough when cured. It is a polyurethane based paint. But it showed brush strokes like crazy. The Dulux (called quick dry, or something like that), an acrylic paint, was very thin, you'd need 5 coats to get the thickness. Carpet fitters I spoke to commented that water based paints are often very soft.

I heard some rumours of a new paint technology that will come out sometime in the current decade, water based and improving on acrylic paints. The current paints don't level, and can be too thin, and not tough.

Russe11

slightly concerned having glued the shelves in, i'd of personally gone for removable shelves.

That way they could be sealed with primer on all surfaces before topcoats.

As for paints tikkurila have some good paint systems, but far to expensive for a DIY job, just get a small tin of MDF primer and be done with it, after all its hidden away in a cupboard so not to many issues with the visuals.

nickj_2

leveller2911 wrote: »

As a Joiner I have major concerns over water based primers/basecoats.The problem being solvent based primers penetrate the timber whereas waterbased basecoat/primers sit on the top and this is not good.I would also mention most decorators will start their outside painting work around March/April through to October/November but with the planned ban on solvent based paints in 2015 will reduce the time they have for outside work.All the time we have moist/dew mornings and afternoons painting waterbased will be a no,no .The season for outside work will be reduced by a couple of months.

I would imagine other countries are "way ahead" of us with regards to waterbased is because they have a different climate, Australia being one and most of the States,Spain and Italy.

Personally I like Architectural Solignum (Solvent based) and Sikkens HLS with top coat of Filter 7.. Dulux weathershield use to be very good.

I keep meaning to look into Bedec Nickj

damp/dew etc is just as bad for solvent based paints , however most w/b paints are microporus allowing a certain amount of moisture to escape , obviously you can't paint in a damp atmosphere and you can't paint damp surfaces .
the main point of w/b paints is that they don't go brittle in the sun like solvent based paints do , once solvent paints split , water tends to get trapped underneath with no means of getting out leading to rot , this doesn't tend to happen as much with w/b paints ,

as for bedec , i use their msp (multi surface paint ) this requires no primer of undercoat , to "prime the wood" you just thin a coat of msp with water , this does soak into/stick to the wood , then any further coats are put on neat . i was speaking to one of their reps at a trade day and he said that if you use for instance dulux primer /u/c andd gloss , all the paints are different and break down with expanding and contracting of the wood , with msp it's all from the same tin,

leveller2911

nickj wrote: »

as for bedec , i use their msp (multi surface paint ) this requires no primer of undercoat , to "prime the wood" you just thin a coat of msp with water , this does soak into/stick to the wood , then any further coats are put on neat . i was speaking to one of their reps at a trade day and he said that if you use for instance dulux primer /u/c andd gloss , all the paints are different and break down with expanding and contracting of the wood , with msp it's all from the same tin,

I will look into Bedec cheers Nick, the only problem I still see with it is that even if you thin the 1st coat it won't penetrate hardwoods such as Sapele and Idigbo whereas oilbased primers will.I'm sure your right about softwoods as they are far more porus than most hardwoods.
Regarding dew/moist air and coating ,I know dew can dull the gloss on oilbased but surely the drying time with waterbased is extended and is more problematic during the Spring/Autumn or am I barking up the wrong tree?.

I don't take too much notice of company reps as its there job to promote their own product ahead of the competition.I think I may buy some Bedec and do some samples and see how they hold up over the Winter and Spring..

Cheers again Nick