Morso 1412 Issues

Hi I am looking for a bit of guidance as I have an issue with using Morso 1412.

There is a vast amount of Tertiary air entering the appliance, of which I have no control. I have been trying to burn wood, recently switched to Kiln dried, but it burns voraciously, so the wood is burning and not the gasses. Solid fuel is better, but sometimes in the morning, (when I do an overnight test) I have unburnt nuggets in the grate, despite setting primary air to a decent draught.

When looking into the appliance, the rear of the firebox seldom seems to catch the fuel, or will go out after a while. I am sad as I have black firebricks instead of golden.:(:(

My room which is not very big, 3.5m x4m, takes ages to warm up, and that is with a stove fan on top.

Morso came out to my home recently as the stove performance was really poor, and removed the smoke hood, great improvement, but not what I would expect from a Morso. We chose this appliance after reading amazing reviews.

A bit of background, appliance/fire surround was fitted by HETAS Eng, who came highly recommended by our Chimney Sweep. Fully lined 11.5 meters of flue.

I am new to using a stove, just a greenhorn at 12 months, however I have another appliance, in family room which I am totally great with, and wood is just my favourite fuel to burn, clean glass, wood gasses burnt off, and really happy.

If anybody has any suggestions, I would be very grateful.

I am reluctant to use the 1412 as it is more trouble than I know it should be, and thankfully it hasn't been that cold yet. :cry::cry::cry:

Thanking you all in advance.

If you want loyalty - get a dog:rotfl::rotfl:

All my posts are my opinion, and the actions I would take.

Comments

  • muckybutt
    muckybutt Posts: 3,761 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    Unusual for Squirrel's to burn like that, most of my customers love them and they are a doddle to sweep.

    Are the door ropes in good order ? and the seal around the glass ?

    When you say removed the smoke hood ? do you mean the internal baffle / throat plate ?

    Another cause could well be that your draught is too great 11.5m is a fair old chimney, I might suggest getting in touch with the fitter again and try a flue damper.

    I would also recommend getting a flue / stove pipe thermometer to see what temps you are burning at.
    You may click thanks if you found my advice useful
  • km1423
    km1423 Posts: 145 Forumite
    Hi muckybutt, thanks for the reply.

    Appliance is brand new installed in June. I have checked all the ropes etc, and all are in good order. I have only had about 15 fires in this thing, with a partial success rate. As I said I am burning the wood, not wood gasses.

    I have a thermometer, which resides on the stove. Difference between that and leaving on the flue can vary as much as 100 deg, so I am careful not to overfire - so on the stove it rests.

    Morso removed smoke hood, (unsure why) which I understand is not suitable for rear flue installation, but not the case for me.

    Today is really windy, (I live in East Anglia), I lite fire, with uber dry kindling and flamers, took about 35 mins to get going, and almost went out. Once established I gently added some dry oak planks (not too big or dense), they caught eventually, and whilst on phone to installer, fire went out, blew out. All wood is tested with wood moisture meter, and I wanted to eliminate any problems with the fuel.

    Installer is reluctant to fit damper, not best practice I understand, yet they are for sale everywhere!! However tertiary air is violent, despite closing down secondary air, but leaving enough to supply wood with oxygen.

    Have been on the phone to Morso (again) to see if Tertiary air control can be reduced, I will seek their advice again, however, I will have to wait until tomorrow (Wednesday)

    Also when secondary air is open, on any setting, even the tiniest amount the pull of air being sucked in is immense and very strong, and strong jets of tertiary air. I am puzzled.

    I am not technical at all, but something is not quite right, and being the end user I am caught, with this evil piece of cast iron, that doesnt keep my room warm and wont burn efficiently. :mad::mad:

    Installer has offered to come round, and smoke test, watch me light etc and believes that I am not giving the fire enough chance to take. He suggested I use firelighters, which I have all varieties - Flamers, the good old nasty smelling ones and some eco ones. All work perfectly in my other appliance.

    It could be true, that I don't give the Morso enough time to catch, however I have tried, and tried, and the results are pretty much the same.

    Anyway I have added solid fuel to it now, as this is easier until I can get the issue resolved.

    Oh, finally, Morso sales guy suggested that I may need a flue draught stabiliser. Yikes they are expensive at about £315. If the damper option is out, then this is the puppy.

    Thank you very much, sorry it's so long.

    If you want loyalty - get a dog:rotfl::rotfl:

    All my posts are my opinion, and the actions I would take.
  • muckybutt
    muckybutt Posts: 3,761 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    Re the thermometer - it needs to be on the stove pipe not the stove, place approx 300mm above the stove.

    When you start the fire - you should initially start it with plenty of kindling and a couple of fire lighters, build the structure up so they krisscross each other and cover the fire lighters.

    Once that has got going open the vents to get plenty of air in there, that will get the temp up, keep adding small pieces of wood as necessary gradually putting larger chunks on, as they start to catch reduce the amount of air going into the fire.

    Ideally you want to be burning it at around 250 - 400 deg.
    You may click thanks if you found my advice useful
  • km1423
    km1423 Posts: 145 Forumite
    Ok, will move thermometer, and when I light tomorrow I will follow your instructions.

    I will keep you updated over the next few days.

    Once again thank you for your time.

    If you want loyalty - get a dog:rotfl::rotfl:

    All my posts are my opinion, and the actions I would take.
  • km1423
    km1423 Posts: 145 Forumite
    Evening, I lit the stove as per your instructions, no different from how I light it anyway - usually Jenga Style as instructions from Morso manual. Used kindling and firelighters.

    This stage is no problem, left door open and secondary air to get a good blaze going and warm up flue. Add few more pieces of larger kindling just to ensure a decent blaze, when thoroughly caught I added 2 x medium pieces of Certainly Wood (this is the uber dry camping wood). Oh and I moved thermometer from stove to flue as suggested.

    Allowed camping wood to fully catch, secondary air open all the while to ensure good draw. Temperature at this time is 250/275 deg F.

    Wood now established, and temp rose to 300/310 deg F, I closed secondary air just a little. This has all taken 20/25 mins.

    Let another 10 mins go by, and I closed secondary air a bit more - temp still same.

    I adjusted secondary a bit more, and if I shut any further, it will go out and when I reintroduce air it will puff into the room the build up in combustion chamber. However tertiary air still going like the clappers, and I cannot slow anything else down.

    I have uploaded a vid on you tube (if you are interested). It's called Morso 1412 going crazy. A bit like me.:(:(:(:mad::mad:

    If you want loyalty - get a dog:rotfl::rotfl:

    All my posts are my opinion, and the actions I would take.
  • SEE
    SEE Posts: 722 Forumite
    km1423 wrote: »
    Evening, I lit the stove as per your instructions, no different from how I light it anyway - usually Jenga Style as instructions from Morso manual. Used kindling and firelighters.

    This stage is no problem, left door open and secondary air to get a good blaze going and warm up flue. Add few more pieces of larger kindling just to ensure a decent blaze, when thoroughly caught I added 2 x medium pieces of Certainly Wood (this is the uber dry camping wood). Oh and I moved thermometer from stove to flue as suggested.

    Allowed camping wood to fully catch, secondary air open all the while to ensure good draw. Temperature at this time is 250/275 deg F.

    Wood now established, and temp rose to 300/310 deg F, I closed secondary air just a little. This has all taken 20/25 mins.

    Let another 10 mins go by, and I closed secondary air a bit more - temp still same.

    I adjusted secondary a bit more, and if I shut any further, it will go out and when I reintroduce air it will puff into the room the build up in combustion chamber. However tertiary air still going like the clappers, and I cannot slow anything else down.

    I have uploaded a vid on you tube (if you are interested). It's called Morso 1412 going crazy. A bit like me.:(:(:(:mad::mad:
    Is your flu blocked?
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Halifax, taking the Xtra since 1853:rolleyes:
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~
  • Skulls
    Skulls Posts: 369 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    Not to sure after watching your video, but once the fire is going you need to gradually open the top vents(secondary) and gradually close the bottom vents(primary). When stove is up to temp the bottom vents should be fully closed and the top ones fully open, after a while gradually close the top vents a little bit at a time until you reach where you want to be. Tertiary air supply/vents are normally on Defra stoves for a very clean burn.
  • km1423
    km1423 Posts: 145 Forumite
    Hi and thanks for replies. Flu isn't blocked - well I am going to double check that with HETAS Eng.

    I have tried every possible combo to get going, and getting fire going isn't an issue. Morso have advised to leave door open to initally catch kindling and don't touch primary air unless using solid fuel.

    Initially, in the past I did open primary and secondary air to get it all going, and gradually adding more fuel for a well established fire. We are in a smoke control zone, so thats why we opted for Morso, or Morose (as we now call it)

    The issue arises when try to close down, and gently burn wood gases, and not wood.

    I have written to Morso tonight and provided vid link and to HETAS Eng also.

    Lets see what happens.

    Thank you all so very much for your time

    If you want loyalty - get a dog:rotfl::rotfl:

    All my posts are my opinion, and the actions I would take.
  • If you do end up needing a draught stabiliser you should be able to get one a lot cheaper than that - the Tigex 50 stabilisers which are for chimneys up to 14m are less than £140
  • km1423
    km1423 Posts: 145 Forumite
    Thanks Greenfires, I will look into that. Hope HETAS Eng is competant enough.

    If you want loyalty - get a dog:rotfl::rotfl:

    All my posts are my opinion, and the actions I would take.
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