48kwh per day for 2 hours heat!!!

lovinituk

becksfaz wrote: »

I did the 24/7 thing last year and from 5th Nov - 17th Dec had a £207 bill!!!! Hence the 2 hours a day now!!!

We tried it a couple of years a go for the whole cold period and I don't remember it being expensive enough to be a shock, I just never really looked into the figures.

If the house is well insulated then I can't see it being that much more expensive as the heating won't come on very often and when it does it will run for a very short time to just top it up a degree or so (rather than having to heat up several degress from very cold).

We've had it set to 19 degrees for the last couple of days and I don't notice the boiler running much at all. The main thing for us is it appears to have sorted out the condensation/damp/mould problem. The only real alternative to fix that would be running a dehumidifier which I would imagine would cost more in electric.

lovinituk

Wywth wrote: »

Poke Martin, or whatever one does on twitter; he was asking for questions like that to compile an authoritative quide

http://twitter.com/MartinSLewis/status/258132458510356481

(Then hopefully we can just post a link to it every time the same question is asked )

Hmm! Don't do [STRIKE]Twatter[/STRIKE] Twitter!! Anyone with an account fancy posting it?

becksfaz

lovinituk wrote: »

We tried it a couple of years a go for the whole cold period and I don't remember it being expensive enough to be a shock, I just never really looked into the figures.

If the house is well insulated then I can't see it being that much more expensive as the heating won't come on very often and when it does it will run for a very short time to just top it up a degree or so (rather than having to heat up several degress from very cold).

We've had it set to 19 degrees for the last couple of days and I don't notice the boiler running much at all. The main thing for us is it appears to have sorted out the condensation/damp/mould problem. The only real alternative to fix that would be running a dehumidifier which I would imagine would cost more in electric.

This is what confuses me - the whole timed v constant thing.
You say your boiler doesn't kick in that much - if my heating is on and stat controlled it kicks in and out loads. The boiler doesn't kick in when the stat loses temperature, it kicks loads to keep the stat at that temperature. e.g. My Mum has her stat at 18c, boiler will kick in at 17c. Mine doesn't drop before boiler kicks in again. Which is why I now turn it off on the boiler.
BG engineer was completely useless and couldn't tell me why it did that. He didn't look at or check anything on the boiler.

WestonDave

We've got ours on a programmable stat - set to 17C first thing in the morning, 18C from 10am and dropping back to 14C overnight. Most days it runs for about half an hour in the morning to knock off the overnight drop (house is well insulated), another half hour or so to bring it up to 18C and then odd bits during the day.

Looking back over the last 12 months consumption, I can see from a summer bill that I use about 10kWh per day for heating water, and about 38kWh per day assuming a 6 month winter from October to March, so in total mine is running at about the same per day as yours albeit I've not specifically checked how much heat that equates to.

Different stats will work in slightly different ways - some will start heating when the temperature drops below their set level, others will start earlier to stop it dropping below. Its just a question of working out what the pattern is on that particular stat.

jalexa

becksfaz wrote: »

Mine doesn't drop before boiler kicks in again. Which is why I now turn it off on the boiler.

Which room is your stat located in?

Wywth

lovinituk wrote: »

Hmm! Don't do [STRIKE]Twatter[/STRIKE] Twitter!! Anyone with an account fancy posting it?

Me neither. I remember reading the tweet on the RHS of this board earlier.

I've posted a request to post responses to MSE tweets on the MSE forum here:
https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/4237383

Let's see what develops

becksfaz

jalexa wrote: »

Which room is your stat located in?

Hall. A large one at that too.
BG engineer advised a wireless stat (but that won't prevent the boiler kicking in and out all the time even when my selected area is at temperature) so I decided to try and work it out for myself.
Yesterday my new friend (a digital thermometer) arrived and I've placed it in the lounge.
I'm recording the temperature difference between the two to try and work out the best temperature to have my stat at.
My hall stat is currently 16c (no windows and no natural light here) and my lounge thermometer is 19.9c (sunny through the lounge window).

becksfaz

WestonDave wrote: »

We've got ours on a programmable stat - set to 17C first thing in the morning, 18C from 10am and dropping back to 14C overnight. Most days it runs for about half an hour in the morning to knock off the overnight drop (house is well insulated), another half hour or so to bring it up to 18C and then odd bits during the day.

Looking back over the last 12 months consumption, I can see from a summer bill that I use about 10kWh per day for heating water, and about 38kWh per day assuming a 6 month winter from October to March, so in total mine is running at about the same per day as yours albeit I've not specifically checked how much heat that equates to.

Different stats will work in slightly different ways - some will start heating when the temperature drops below their set level, others will start earlier to stop it dropping below. Its just a question of working out what the pattern is on that particular stat.

So it only takes 30 mins for your temp to go from 14c (your overnight temp) to your morning temp of 17c. This is amazing! Wish mine did this.
Remebering from last year - it would take about 2-2.5hrs for my hall to incerease 3c in a morning sometimes longer if it's been really cold in the night.

lovinituk

becksfaz wrote: »

This is what confuses me - the whole timed v constant thing.
You say your boiler doesn't kick in that much - if my heating is on and stat controlled it kicks in and out loads. The boiler doesn't kick in when the stat loses temperature, it kicks loads to keep the stat at that temperature. e.g. My Mum has her stat at 18c, boiler will kick in at 17c. Mine doesn't drop before boiler kicks in again. Which is why I now turn it off on the boiler.
BG engineer was completely useless and couldn't tell me why it did that. He didn't look at or check anything on the boiler.

That doesn't sound right with your system. Mine works like your mums - as soon as the thermostat in the hall reads the temperature as 1 degree below the setting it tells the boiler to do its thing. Then it tells it to stop when it reads the temp at the required setting. It never comes on intermittently while the thermostat is happy with the temp.

We have full wall and loft insulation so the house does retain the heat well so the boiler doesn't run much at all.

becksfaz

lovinituk wrote: »

That doesn't sound right with your system. Mine works like your mums - as soon as the thermostat in the hall reads the temperature as 1 degree below the setting it tells the boiler to do its thing. Then it tells it to stop when it reads the temp at the required setting. It never comes on intermittently while the thermostat is happy with the temp.

We have full wall and loft insulation so the house does retain the heat well so the boiler doesn't run much at all.

That's what most people say when I tell them but the clown from BG said 'that's how they work by topping up' to which I said 'but there's nothing to top up if it's at temperature I want. The ways it's working means that despite my stat displaying correct temperature for say 4 hrs, my boiler would still kick in and out and cost me money!' The reply I then got was 'must be how yours works then...' !!!!!!!

We also have wall and loft insulation.

I spent all last winter looking for a solution and started this winter the same and feel like I'm getting no-where