'making good' a wall when dado removed?

hi there,

i will shortly be decorating the living/dining room, and am considering doing away with the dado that is fixed with no nails.

i'm sure this will make a mess wnen pulled off the wall even if it only pulls off the paint.

question is, has anyone had any success repairing this damage to a good standard?, is it harder to fix if it just peels off the paint? did you use normal polyfiller? is reskimming the only answer?

what i don't want is to be able to see the outline of the damage when finished (sorry, bit of a fussy !!!!!!):o .

thanks in advance for your help.
Please note, we've had to remove your signature because it was sh*te!

Comments

  • swagman
    swagman Posts: 220 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    I think you are right to be cautious. I have never yet seen a removed dado or picture rail that has not left traces which are visible in certain lights and angles.

    IMO the best bet is a bit of skilled skimming which extends beyond the area where the dado was and feathers back to the plaster level.

    I imagine that removing the dado by running a stout but flexible scraper along behind it may leave least damage.

    On the other hand, dado rails can look good when painted with a satin or matt finish, especially in off white, if that fits the scheme. Might be less trouble overall.
  • misgrace
    misgrace Posts: 1,486 Forumite
    You can repair it so it looks good, but you need a bit of time and patience,and
    Depending on how much it pulls away.

    if it leaves biggish holes, but not so big you dont need a plasterer, then filler will do the trick.
    Use powder filler, and if the holes are quite deep, wet some newspaper and poke that in, and whilst the paper is still wet, whack on some filler, when dry, sand down, if you can still see the indent of the hole, just fill again till flush with the wall,
    The newspaper will hold in the hole, I do it sometimes in my jobs
    If you go down this route with the big holes, then after the holes are filled to your satisfaction, get some diluted PVA and brush that on the actual filler/holes, as sometimes if you do a lot of filler and you paint over it, it can crumble and blow, so the PVA will give the filler a hard shell, and protect the filler from crumbling.

    Before you actually roll your colour, dab some slightly diluted paint on to these filled bits, at least 2-3 times before rolling,(called spotting the filler) this will also prevent the white filler from flashing (showing thu your coats)then roll your 2/3 coats as normal.
    if just the plaster has pulled away, give it a good rub down, and just lightly fill, you probably wont need the PVA for that, but still follow the instructionsfor the spotting prior to rolling.:D
  • bockster
    bockster Posts: 448 Forumite
    thanks for your responses so far.

    there is still the chance that i will leave it there and maybe paint it. it would surely be the more sensible option! the room is quite large, and i have quite a lot of prep to do allready.
    Please note, we've had to remove your signature because it was sh*te!
  • nelly_2
    nelly_2 Posts: 17,863 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    swagman wrote: »
    I think you are right to be cautious. I have never yet seen a removed dado or picture rail that has not left traces which are visible in certain lights and angles.

    .

    I can :)

    After you remove it you get a plastering trowel and scrape along the length of the scar grinding it down so there are NO high points, and only after doing that will you get an invisible finish.

    As a plasterer you naturally have any edges slightly deeper its just one of them things, it nearly is never an issue, but it really is an issue when trying to patch a dao rail.
  • ormus
    ormus Posts: 42,714 Forumite
    another trick is to mix your emulsion paint color into the pollyfilla mix.
    always use a float when skimming. does a better job than the filling knife.
    Get some gorm.
  • misgrace
    misgrace Posts: 1,486 Forumite
    Or, fill where necessary, then line with either 1200 or 1400 grade lining paper.
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