removing limescale/gunk on brasswork in cold water tank

morg_monster

Hiya
We need a new ball float/valve in our loft cold water tank as the overflow pipe drips whenever the tank is full. I bought the part from our local plumber's merchant over a year ago, thinking I might have a go at changing it myself.
I am regretting this as although the part was cheap, when I tried to fit it I realised we didnt' have a wrench/spanner big enough to fit around the nut so had to buy a new one... and probably I'll need a second wrench to give leverage... But anyway I have decided I will have one more try before I just call a plumber to do it. (This is when I really wish that my friends/family weren't all white collar jobs like accountants, web designers, lecturers, but something USEFUL like a plumber or mechanic...)
The next hurdle is that all the old brasswork is covered in hard limescale and other gunk which to me looks like it is going to make it be virtually impossible to turn the nuts... So what I'm asking is, can I clean this stuff off a bit without polluting our water?!
Oh and any other advice would also be happily received! (including how much you think a plumber would charge to do this in Surrey, within the M25...) (PS I do know where the stopcock is ;-)
Thank you!

PlutoinCapricorn

This post has made me give up any attempt to fix a similar problem myself. Apparently some people just look at the fittings or watch YouTube videos, buy stuff from B & Q and do it themselves. I am just not the right type of person to do that. I will definitely get a plumber in now.

White vinegar is good for removing limescale.

morg_monster

Haha, I'm glad my posting helped someone!! Yes I really wish I'd just called a plumber when it first started dripping. Right now I have to go up into the loft a few times a week to unscrew the ball float a little, just to stop the drip becoming a constant trickle... Problem is it drips onto a flat roof - not such a worry in the summer when it evaporates quickly but I know we need to get it sorted before it gets too much cooler or we'll have a rotten roof to replace too.
I hadn't thought of using vinegar up there, might give it a go although only have malt ... being an avid chutney maker...

espresso

morg_monster wrote: »

Hiya
We need a new ball float/valve in our loft cold water tank as the overflow pipe drips whenever the tank is full.............

You don't normally need to replace the whole ballcock unit, just fit a new washer which costs a few pence.

See here

southcoastrgi

espresso wrote: »

You don't normally need to replace the whole ballcock unit, just fit a new washer which costs a few pence.

See here

a plumber wouldn't even think of replacing the washer in a roof tank ballvalve it is quicker & better to change the whole ballvalve, if the valve has been dripping for that long then the internal orifice will prob be worn as well, i can't quite understand why unscrewing the float helps either, the new ballvalve should be a brass part 2 ballvave if you have a new plastic one it's the wrong type, 5-10 mins work for a plumber although you will prob have to pay for the full hr.

espresso

southcoastrgi wrote: »

a plumber wouldn't even think of replacing the washer in a roof tank ballvalve it is quicker & better to change the whole ballvalve.................

Obviously they wouldn't fit a penny washer when they could charge to supply and fit a new ballcock valve but this is a money saving site and fitting a new washer usually works at a fraction of the cost.

I wouldn't expect you to agree as making money doing simple jobs like this is your trade.

southcoastrgi

espresso wrote: »

Obviously they wouldn't fit a penny washer when they could charge to supply and fit a new ballcock valve but this is a money saving site and fitting a new washer usually works at a fraction of the cost.

I wouldn't expect you to agree as making money doing simple jobs like this is your trade.

no i don't agree you are wrong, it's not just the cost of the washer you can buy a part 2 ballvalve for less that £10 (plus the OP already has the new ballvalve), if the ballvalve has been leaking for a while then the inside will be worn out, so what you are saying is buy a washer for 50p pay a plumber £40-£50 to change it & it's still dripping so then next week buy a ballvalve for £10 & then pay the plumber another £40-£50 to change that, if you want to waste your time changing the washer yourself thats one thing but the OP has already said they will be getting a plumber in as they don't have the right tools or knowhow

espresso

There is no need for a plumber for such a simple job that takes minutes! Changing the ballcock washer is the obvious first step. The OP may simply be able to take the barrel/washer from the new valve and fit it to the existing valve.

southcoastrgi

morg_monster wrote: »

Hiya
We need a new ball float/valve in our loft cold water tank as the overflow pipe drips whenever the tank is full. I bought the part from our local plumber's merchant over a year ago, thinking I might have a go at changing it myself.
I am regretting this as although the part was cheap, when I tried to fit it I realised we didnt' have a wrench/spanner big enough to fit around the nut so had to buy a new one... and probably I'll need a second wrench to give leverage... But anyway I have decided I will have one more try before I just call a plumber to do it. (This is when I really wish that my friends/family weren't all white collar jobs like accountants, web designers, lecturers, but something USEFUL like a plumber or mechanic...)
The next hurdle is that all the old brasswork is covered in hard limescale and other gunk which to me looks like it is going to make it be virtually impossible to turn the nuts... So what I'm asking is, can I clean this stuff off a bit without polluting our water?!
Oh and any other advice would also be happily received! (including how much you think a plumber would charge to do this in Surrey, within the M25...) (PS I do know where the stopcock is ;-)
Thank you!

PlutoinCapricorn wrote: »

This post has made me give up any attempt to fix a similar problem myself. Apparently some people just look at the fittings or watch YouTube videos, buy stuff from B & Q and do it themselves. I am just not the right type of person to do that. I will definitely get a plumber in now

morg_monster wrote: »

Haha, I'm glad my posting helped someone!! Yes I really wish I'd just called a plumber when it first started dripping. Right now I have to go up into the loft a few times a week to unscrew the ball float a little, just to stop the drip becoming a constant trickle

what do you not understand from these three posts, why are you still continuing to argue & give the wrong advice, change the whole ballvalve & float while you are at it as this may have water in it as well.

southcoastrgi

espresso wrote: »

There is no need for a plumber for such a simple job that takes minutes! Changing the ballcock washer is the obvious first step. The OP may simply be able to take the barrel/washer from the new valve and fit it to the existing valve.

if it has a barrel with the washer at the end this is a part 1 ballvalve & is the wrong type it needs to be a part 2 ballvalve for a roof tank

espresso

Why is it that you don't understand that the OP is trying to save money and not get ripped off by a plumber for such a simple job that most can do easily.

OP you have started to fix this for yourself, so even if you do need another wrench etc. it will still be far cheaper than admitting defeat and calling in a rip off merchant.