Rusty sills -- any point in preventative work at 9 years old?

jase1

Car is a Mitsubishi, nine years old, in generally good condition -- excellent mechanically and has given no trouble in the last two years I've had it.

However, the sills are starting to show signs of rust. This car doesn't have plastic sill covers, which seems unusual these days, although the basic design of the car does date back to 1996.

On both sides, the seam of the outer sill where the jacking points have surface rust, but are solid for around a foot to 18 inches from the rear wheel arches. The base of the arches themselves are also starting to fester, and on the passenger side there is some minor discoloration near the corner of the rear door.

Apart from a rusted-up stonechip on the bonnet this seems to be the extent of the corrosion.

I'm actually a little surprised as these cars don't normally rust too badly (they're built on the same chassis as a couple of Volvos).

Mechanic reckons there's nothing much that can be done about it, just wait for the inevitable welding bill in a year or two (car went through MOT this time without issue).

Would you spend the £200 or so to get someone to grind this back and retreat?

forgotmyname

Strip it back with a wirebrush and treat it.

You may find a hole or 2 already though.

Dont just get a small patch put on, If possible get it done properly.

But it depends on how long you intend on keeping it and how much money you want to put in.

Not many rusty cars these days, KA's and Mercedes seem to be exceptions.

epninety

I wouldn't be looking to spend hundreds, but as forgotmyname says, strip back what you can and treat it.

Wirebrush and paint - heavy duty brush primer and stonechip paint would be my choice.

If you don't find any holes yet, then an aerosol of waxoyl up the insides may keep the welder at bay for a few more years - though you won't be mister popular when he does get to it

And the lack of plastic covers has probably saved you, rather than hurt you, in my experience. Water and silt gets trapped behind them, and makes the problem worse, not better.

Strider590

jase1 wrote: »

I'm actually a little surprised as these cars don't normally rust too badly (they're built on the same chassis as a couple of Volvos).

Old Volvo's don't rust? news to me!!

End of the day, old Japanese motors weren't built to survive the British climate. In Japan they only need last 3 years, after which most cars are nothing but scrap metal, which is why owners of imports either have their cars protected or get rid of them very quickly after purchase.

jase1

Strider590 wrote: »

Old Volvo's don't rust? news to me!!

End of the day, old Japanese motors weren't built to survive the British climate. In Japan they only need last 3 years, after which most cars are nothing but scrap metal, which is why owners of imports either have their cars protected or get rid of them very quickly after purchase.

But this isn't an old Japanese motor -- it's a 2003 car, and was built in the Netherlands in any case.

Mine is the only rusty one I've seen. It may have something to do with living most of its life by the sea.

Thanks for the replies -- I will ask a neighbour who works at a body shop for a quote -- best to get the job done properly if it's not going to cost an arm and a leg. Not really bothered about what it looks like, just want the repair to last the car out.

A._Badger

Strider590 wrote: »

Old Volvo's don't rust? news to me!!

End of the day, old Japanese motors weren't built to survive the British climate. In Japan they only need last 3 years, after which most cars are nothing but scrap metal, which is why owners of imports either have their cars protected or get rid of them very quickly after purchase.

I have a 19 year old Mazda Eunos that says you're wrong.